Fuel problem please help!

Donsbad89

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OK, first the story......

I inherited this 1992 F250 (currently 79k original miles, got it with 71k) from my grandpa when he passed away. It had sat for 2 years prior. I spun the filter off and siphoned the tanks. Poured Power Service in the new filter housing and put fresh diesel in the tanks. It ran fine for a few thousand miles. Now when I was driving the fuel filter light would come on and go off every once in awhile. Then while running on the rear tank one day it came on and stayed on until the truck died. I got it restarted switched tanks and drove it home. The next day it wont run on either tank. I spin on a new filter. Still no go. Check fuel pressure, there is none. Slap on a new Airtex fuel pump and bleed the air out. It runs home on the front tank fine, switch to the rear tank and within a couple miles the filter light will come on and the truck will die. I'm thinking the tank must be bad. I purchase a new rear tank as well as a new rear tank. I drop the rear tank. It was full of rust and what looked to be red algae. I replace it along with a new sending unit. I'm happy with my work and the truck will idle and run with the new tank. I drive down the road for awhile switching tanks every once in awhile. Then after awhile the filter light comes on and once again the damn truck is dead in the water. It will only run on the front tank. I was planning to replace the front tank also but now I'm afraid to because its the only thing keeping the truck running but im sure its not in much better shape then the rear was.

I'm at my wits end. I don't want to let the truck go because it was my grandpa's and its in great shape. Whats the next step? I hate to just keep pouring money into it.

Thanks for any help.
 

franklin2

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All the junk from the rear tank may have clogged the switching valve and it's ports and lines to the rear tank.
 

icanfixall

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Run some algie killer in the tanks. Any fuel thats been contaminated will start the groth in all tanks. As post above the switching valve may be clogged up too.
 

Donsbad89

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If I take the selector valve off is it possible to clean it? Where would I get algae killer?
 

Popeye2347

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Maybe from an Autozone type store or lacking that a big truck/semi dealer or truck stop. If you want to use the internet I'm sure some of the advertisers have it avlailable. Follow directions.
 

jwalterus

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If I take the selector valve off is it possible to clean it? Where would I get algae killer?

if it's been sticking, I personally would just replace it, but I'd also drop and completely flush out or replace the rear tank before installing the new one
 

jim_22

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Don't rule out that your lift pump is on its way out. It is an inexpensive replacement that can save you a lot of grief (how do I know?). The experts will tell you to check your fuel pressure and before the IP and if it is not around 7psi your lift pump is toast.
 

Donsbad89

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It has a new lift pump and I replaced the rear tank. It was terrible. But, like I said. No dice. I found some algae killer, didnt help. Guess I will take the selector down next and try to find a way to clean it.
 

RLDSL

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It's doubtful cleaning is going to help the selector valve. those things are stinking delicate. I had a bum one, put in a brand new one and it froze once and never worked since . I'm replacing it with a set of manual valves and getting rid of that electric garbage.
 

RLDSL

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Are the selector valves still available? Dealer?

If you want one that plugs right in, you'll have to go to the dealer, around a hundred bucks or so, any parts store can sell you a valve but all the ones the parts stores sell, you have to cut your wire harness to splice the thing in.
 

Donsbad89

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I'll go track one down tomorrow. I'm really wanting to get this truck fixed up nice.
 

Donsbad89

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The stealership wants almost $300. The universal AC Delco unit from Advance auto parts looks like crap. Any other options?
 

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