waterdonkey
Registered User
Anybody want to recommend a gauge and sender for fuel pressure. I think I am going with the isolator type. Comments, suggestions.
Fuel pressure senders
- Thread starter waterdonkey
- Start date
B
Big K
Guest
My mechanical Autometer has worked well. Reads +/- 1# low when cold due to stiff diaphragm. 0-15 range may not be enough for some methods of fuel system modification.
The Di-Pricol line is a possibility. When I did mine, they were having too many problems with their isolators. If that's been corrected, their 0-30 psi gauge could be an option.
The Di-Pricol line is a possibility. When I did mine, they were having too many problems with their isolators. If that's been corrected, their 0-30 psi gauge could be an option.
Fishin2Deep4U
Full Access Member
I know this doesn't fall under your isolator type, but I have been running an Isspro mechanical for over a year and a half with no problems. It's plumbed direct with braided line and has a needle valve to shut it down if neccessary.
I installed the same setup in my dad's truck about two months ago. It's working good as well.
So far, so good. The choice is yours.
Dave
I installed the same setup in my dad's truck about two months ago. It's working good as well.
So far, so good. The choice is yours.
Dave
Whit
Registered User
Westech for me, 1 gauge and 2 senders so I can read pre and post filter, my senders are at the end of a 16" greasegun hose used as vibration/pulsation dampner. Working good for 2 years now.
Cheers, Kevin
Cheers, Kevin
CMNS PWR
Registered User
Big K, How exactly did you run your mechanical fp gauge...what fittings, lines, etc are needed? I have an 01 and was wondering how its done inside the cab. Do I need to replace the Schrader valve on the inlet of the VP with a tapped banjo? It seems like running a braided steel line up through the pillar is a PITA to install.
Fishin2Deep4U
Full Access Member
I'm sure Big K will respond with the particulars of his install.
On my truck, I used the useless cubby hole to mount the gauge in. Easy to run the line and it works.
On my dads truck, we used the same Isppro gauge and braided line and routed it up the pillar. It went surprisingly easy and his gauge is in the bottom hole of the pod.
For attachment and fittings, they are identical. We used a tapped banjo bolt from Wildcat. (Yes Eric, I did check for loose metal!) This went on the post side of the filter. Next was a needle valve and the end of the braided line hooked right up.
The needle valve acts as asnubber, so no grease gun hose or the like was needed to snub pulses. I would not recommend using the schrader valve on the VP for anything except an occasional test port. There is just too much hammering at that location.
Dave
On my truck, I used the useless cubby hole to mount the gauge in. Easy to run the line and it works.
On my dads truck, we used the same Isppro gauge and braided line and routed it up the pillar. It went surprisingly easy and his gauge is in the bottom hole of the pod.
For attachment and fittings, they are identical. We used a tapped banjo bolt from Wildcat. (Yes Eric, I did check for loose metal!) This went on the post side of the filter. Next was a needle valve and the end of the braided line hooked right up.
The needle valve acts as asnubber, so no grease gun hose or the like was needed to snub pulses. I would not recommend using the schrader valve on the VP for anything except an occasional test port. There is just too much hammering at that location.
Dave
B
Big K
Guest
Yup, but not tonite.
Just got home.
Time to crash.
Will add my thoughts later.
Fishin2Deep4U
Full Access Member
Ya *****.
CMNS PWR,
Got mine thru Wildcat diesel. It uses a tapped banjo bolt on the underside of the fuel filter housing(post filter),a shut off valve and about 5' of #3 steel braided line. It is a pain to get it up thru the dash area,not a lot of room under there. Used #2 Permatex on the threads. Put 1/2" wire loom over the hose also to prevent the line from rubbing any wires,etc.
Got mine thru Wildcat diesel. It uses a tapped banjo bolt on the underside of the fuel filter housing(post filter),a shut off valve and about 5' of #3 steel braided line. It is a pain to get it up thru the dash area,not a lot of room under there. Used #2 Permatex on the threads. Put 1/2" wire loom over the hose also to prevent the line from rubbing any wires,etc.
russs
Full Access Member
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Westach and 16" grease gun hose here also - works like a champ!
Sir Smokesalot
Registered User
Exactly the same as Dave (fishintodeep4u), including mounting in the cubby. Got my setup from Rod at Wildcat ($100). Isspro Marine 30psi.
And to quote a couple of famous movie lines.
"Isolator? I don't have to show you no stinking isolator"
Treasure of the Sierra Madre
"I love the smell of Diesel in the morning!"
Apocalypse Now
And to quote a couple of famous movie lines.
"Isolator? I don't have to show you no stinking isolator"
Treasure of the Sierra Madre
"I love the smell of Diesel in the morning!"
Apocalypse Now
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CMNS PWR
Registered User
Since I have decided to run a Holley red and new -8an lines from the tank to the filter and filter to the pump, I might as well use SS braided line for mechanical fp gauge. I have the autometer ultralite. What size hose is needed? It looks like 1/4" connection on the back of the gauge. Also, those of you running a needle valve inline, is something like this what you are using?
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Sir Smokesalot
Registered User
Yes, that's what will work. Elbow off of the bottom of fuel filter, needle valve then braided line to the cubby. Don't see how you could run braided line to the A pillar.
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Big K
Guest
OK, so I'm late getting back to this..
I'VE BEEN BUSY!
(another movie line, Roger....;p )
I don't believe in fuel into the cab. My opinion, no further comment.
We used Autometer, w/isolator. Isolator mounted as high as possible, on custom bracket utilizing master cylinder studs. Gauge mounted in lowermost a-pillar mounting hole. Yes, it's a pita to feed the ss line thru. At least it was for every one that I've done. I have heard tell of one other person having a better time of it, but I call BS
The connection @ the gauge is -4 AN, as is the connection @ the isolator. You'll need +/- 2' of properly fittinged hose to connect from your take-off port to the isolator. We use ss braid for this also.
With the '99 style cannister, it's easy, as you have (2) 1/4' pipe plugs on top, one pre filter, and one post. You can use either for pressure take-off, or both, and switch them to measure drop across the filter.
The later style cannister involves a bit more creativity. I replaced the line between the cannister outlet and the VP-44 inlet, using-8 ss braid, and AN fittings. Start with a metric to -8 (male) adapter fitting at each, placing the banjo bolts in permanent storage, where they belong. I then added Aeroquip fuel pressure take-off port adapters at each location. You only need one at the cannister bottom for fuel pressure, but I added the other to retain the OEM schraeder valve. (to do this, you'll need Rod's 1/8" pipe schraeder valve) You then use an 1/8" pipe to -4 adapter that threads into the pressure port adapter, and pull your fuel pressure from there at the cannister bottom. Fill in between the cannister and the VP-44 with -8 and the proper fittings, add your pressure line to the isolator, and you're done.
This has worked well for me, your results may vary.
I'VE BEEN BUSY!
(another movie line, Roger....;p )
I don't believe in fuel into the cab. My opinion, no further comment.
We used Autometer, w/isolator. Isolator mounted as high as possible, on custom bracket utilizing master cylinder studs. Gauge mounted in lowermost a-pillar mounting hole. Yes, it's a pita to feed the ss line thru. At least it was for every one that I've done. I have heard tell of one other person having a better time of it, but I call BS
The connection @ the gauge is -4 AN, as is the connection @ the isolator. You'll need +/- 2' of properly fittinged hose to connect from your take-off port to the isolator. We use ss braid for this also.
With the '99 style cannister, it's easy, as you have (2) 1/4' pipe plugs on top, one pre filter, and one post. You can use either for pressure take-off, or both, and switch them to measure drop across the filter.
The later style cannister involves a bit more creativity. I replaced the line between the cannister outlet and the VP-44 inlet, using-8 ss braid, and AN fittings. Start with a metric to -8 (male) adapter fitting at each, placing the banjo bolts in permanent storage, where they belong. I then added Aeroquip fuel pressure take-off port adapters at each location. You only need one at the cannister bottom for fuel pressure, but I added the other to retain the OEM schraeder valve. (to do this, you'll need Rod's 1/8" pipe schraeder valve) You then use an 1/8" pipe to -4 adapter that threads into the pressure port adapter, and pull your fuel pressure from there at the cannister bottom. Fill in between the cannister and the VP-44 with -8 and the proper fittings, add your pressure line to the isolator, and you're done.
This has worked well for me, your results may vary.
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