Fuel lines
- Thread starter Bootzz
- Start date
Small one return Large one Feed
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
The above is correct. Now if you need to know the line size well the supply is 3/8 and the return is 5/16. What are you planning on doing..
sle2115
NRA LIFE MEMBER
On my 87 the returns are all grey, feed are all blue...I think 87 on was this way, but can't swear to it.
HammerDown
Full Access Member
My 88, feed/supply = blue, return= gray.
If you're going after the busted shower-head...see my thread http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?63158-Rear-Tank-Is-Out!
Few weeks back I dropped the rear tank for shower-head repair...suggestion > siphon ALL the fuel out first, you'll be left with maybe a qt or so (no biggie).
The plastic supply and return lines are held to the frame via clamps...for needed slack remove them.
Remove the gas cap and filler hose > don't worry about the large rubber hose clamped to the tank side.
Lay under the rear tank and remove one skid plate at a time...support that side of the tank front to back with trucker type rubber bungee cords.
Simply remove the bungee cords and the tank will come down 'some'...with the needed slack in the fuel lines, reach-up and disconnect the electrical sender plug, the supply & feed fuel lines...AND...the the rubber vent line that is 'clipped' to the frame cross-member <> find that clip prior to the drop. I didn't and tore it from the frame(duh)
Once those are free, the tank will easily tilt down and to the passenger side, slide down and out onto your chest.
All in all not a bad job, I would rather do the above vs pulling the bed any day
BTW...wear eye protection from falling rust debris.
If you're going after the busted shower-head...see my thread http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?63158-Rear-Tank-Is-Out!
Few weeks back I dropped the rear tank for shower-head repair...suggestion > siphon ALL the fuel out first, you'll be left with maybe a qt or so (no biggie).
The plastic supply and return lines are held to the frame via clamps...for needed slack remove them.
Remove the gas cap and filler hose > don't worry about the large rubber hose clamped to the tank side.
Lay under the rear tank and remove one skid plate at a time...support that side of the tank front to back with trucker type rubber bungee cords.
Simply remove the bungee cords and the tank will come down 'some'...with the needed slack in the fuel lines, reach-up and disconnect the electrical sender plug, the supply & feed fuel lines...AND...the the rubber vent line that is 'clipped' to the frame cross-member <> find that clip prior to the drop. I didn't and tore it from the frame(duh)
Once those are free, the tank will easily tilt down and to the passenger side, slide down and out onto your chest.
All in all not a bad job, I would rather do the above vs pulling the bed any day
BTW...wear eye protection from falling rust debris.
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icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
The above is truely the best way to drop the rear tank. I had about 5 to 7 gallons left in the tank and it was a royal pain to get it out. I made sure it was mt when I installed it too. I also did not release the lines on the frame cross rails and broke the suction line loose so I had a fuel leak when the tank was full. Dropped the tank once more and really had a tuff time finding the leak it was that small. It was the suction line solder to the cover plate that seals the sender in the tank... Talk about a sucky job to repair. We live and learn I guess.. Now I know and can advise others of the safe way to do this job.
Well I'm ordering a 38 gal from lmc And in going to run lines from this tank to my cummins. I took out my front tank.
Also what wore do I run to my (aftermarket) fuel lvl gauge??? Is it yellow? Or how do I go about it?
And has anyone done the 38gal tank swap? How will this thing bolt up. Supposed to fit an 89 and I have a 92
Also what wore do I run to my (aftermarket) fuel lvl gauge??? Is it yellow? Or how do I go about it?
And has anyone done the 38gal tank swap? How will this thing bolt up. Supposed to fit an 89 and I have a 92
So when splicing my lines should I just get some barbed fittings? And do it like air hose from the plastic line to my rubber line? Im going to just hook up my old tank for now then when I get a chance to get my new tank ill just run my hose from my sending unit piece.
But what would be a good way to connect that plastic line to a rubber hose??
But what would be a good way to connect that plastic line to a rubber hose??
sle2115
NRA LIFE MEMBER
Run metal as far as you can...less problematic and since you don't have a switch, should be easy. Shower head is the pickup that is in the tank, there is a plastic piece that resembles a shower head and it sits just off the bottom of the fuel tank to pickup fuel. It is a slip fit onto the metal line that goes into the tank to draw fuel and often times the slip fit comes apart, leaving the suction line, at about 1/2 tank so when the tank gets down to about 1/2 tank, it starts sucking air just as if the tank is empty.
HammerDown
Full Access Member
I used a brass 3/8 x 3/8 coupling from the 'plumbing' department of Home Depot
Tip > dip the cut plastic-end into boiling water to 'soften' it...I used a heat gun and it was still a ***** to get the fitting into the plastic supply line.
HammerDown
Full Access Member
Yup, your shower-head is bouncing around the bottom of the tank. It had a screen on the underside...so when you get your new tank, if you don't use some type of 'filtering' PU simply install an inline filter outside of the tank somewhere to filter fuel 'before' it reaches the fuel selector valve. Don't need the valve getting jammed up with debris.
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