Fuel gauge/sender/tank

Mat J

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The previous owner of my truck tied both tanks together there is no valve to switch tanks, and the switch on the dash to control the tanks isnt hooked up and I cant even find the wires that plug into it:dunno also my fuel gauge is pegged "full" Iv only put 85 miles on this truck since Iv had it and I the gauge hasnt moved.

Im afraid that the fuel sender and or gauge arnt working at all and I want to be able to atleast test to see if it is and fix it. Right now I dont care about having two tanks, one big one will do for now. I just dont want it to be a guessing game how much fuel I have.
 

icanfixall

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So... This really sounds like a mess. Try this first... Fill a tank, then run around 150 miles using the odometer on the speedo. Then refill the tank. Find out what the milegae is. Now you have a base line for fuel mileage. Run it around 200 miles next time and recheck mileage. Don't try to get more than 200 miles per tank. You may have a broken suction line in the tanks and they will only pull down to around 1/4 tank and run out of useable fuel. It really suxs to run out of fuel when you know there is a 1/4 tank left,,, Been there like many others with this too.
 

Mat J

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ok i just filled it up so ill figure out the mileage. How much does each tank hold?
 

Mat J

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Alright thanks, How do I go about fixing the problem? Can I make the sender in the front tank work with the gauge without the valves? I have stock wiring diagrams but I dont know how to wire it because its not stock anymore.
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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I bet if you trace the fuel-lines, somewhere you will find a manual selector-valve.

Unless it is altered to function like a big-truck, then I can't see it drawing from both tanks and also properly dividing the return fuel.

One tank would always get more than it's share of the return fuel and run over.:dunno
 

Mat J

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What it looks like its doing is there is a line at the bottom of each tank connecting eachother, and a line at the top connecting each so it basically is just functioning as one big tank.
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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What it looks like its doing is there is a line at the bottom of each tank connecting eachother, and a line at the top connecting each so it basically is just functioning as one big tank.


If that be the case, then it has been converted to function like the saddle-tanks on a big truck; an equalizer line connects all tanks at the bottom, such that they all empty together, like you said = functioning as one big tank.

I would trace every line and identify for certain what each line does.

To work properly, it should only have one main DRAW point, as in DRAW from only one tank, even though they are all connected at the bottom.

The same goes for the main RETURN; it should RETURN only into whichever tank it DRAWs from.


ALSO, there should be a SHUT-OFF VALVE in the bottom line between tanks, preferably TWO shut-off valves, one per tank at the point where the bottom line exits each tank.


Without the shut-off valves, when both tanks are mostly FULL, seeing as how the fuel is going to seek the lowest level, should the truck be on an incline, the fuel will run to the lowest tank and over-flow it.


Here is how it should work:

You turn OFF one or both cut-off valves and fill both tanks FULL.

You drive on the one tank that has both the DRAW and RETURN, just like you had only one tank.

When the fuel level gets down to around 1/4-tank, at the next stop you open the cut-off valve(s), thus allowing the fuel from the FULL tank to flow into the near-empty DRAW tank, with the fuel level equalizing at around 5/8 to 3/4.

With the level of one tank down to 1/4 and the other FULL, it is then highly unlikely that the truck would be inclined enough such that either tank could overflow.

Of course, it is also remotely possible that all the fuel could flow to the AUXILLIARY tank and leave the DRAW line high and dry, thus running the engine out of fuel, but this is highly unlikely, unless the truck is parked on an awfully steep grade.


If it is plumbed to function as I described, complete with the cut-off valves, then I would leave it alone, as such a system is superior and far more trouble-free than the silly problematic always failing electric selector valve, which failure is most likely why it was changed in the first place.;Sweet
 

Mat J

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I cant really see where the suction and return lines are and there defiantly isnt a valve.
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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I cant really see where the suction and return lines are and there defiantly isnt a valve.



With bottom lines on any tank, I would DEFINITELY want a cut-off valve at the bottom of EACH tank.

For one thing, suppose something were to snag that bottom line; without any means of shutting off the fuel, both tanks would pour on the ground until empty.
 

Mat J

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Good point.

I was thinking of making a big aluminum fuel tank to sit in the rear tanks spot but hold more then the rear. I work in an aluminum fab shop so it wont be a big deal to make one day. Would that work out good? Latter on I could even build a smaller separate tank for alt. fuels.
 

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