Fuel gauge reads

[franklin2]

The valve you are looking at is made by a company called Pollak. They made these valves for Ford, and Ford specified a special wiring connector and line fittings and orientation. That is the $260 valve.

You can buy this same valve, made by the same company from the local parts store. But it is a universal valve. The function is exactly the same, but the wiring is a little different, and the fuel line fittings are different. With a little modification you can make it work. It's about $80 from the parts store.

There are many people who look for alternatives to this setup after changing the valves a few times over the course of owning these trucks. If you look in the project sub forum, there is a article in there where people use manual brass valves to do the switching along with a electrical switch for the sending units.

Then some people do away with the dual tanks and run one large tank in the rear. Then others have tried using the two tanks, but using a transfer pump to move fuel from one tank to another without a valve.

 

[Sorro71]

The valve you are looking at is made by a company called Pollak. They made these valves for Ford, and Ford specified a special wiring connector and line fittings and orientation. That is the $260 valve.

You can buy this same valve, made by the same company from the local parts store. But it is a universal valve. The function is exactly the same, but the wiring is a little different, and the fuel line fittings are different. With a little modification you can make it work. It's about $80 from the parts store.

There are many people who look for alternatives to this setup after changing the valves a few times over the course of owning these trucks. If you look in the project sub forum, there is a article in there where people use manual brass valves to do the switching along with a electrical switch for the sending units.

Then some people do away with the dual tanks and run one large tank in the rear. Then others have tried using the two tanks, but using a transfer pump to move fuel from one tank to another without a valve.

Don't really want to change the set-up if i can avoid it. I'll see if i can find one of the universal ones over here. Do you know what's involved in changing the wiring?

 

[laserjock]

I used the pollack valve. It uses hose barbs. Since I replumbed the truck it was a non-issue. I also moved mine forward on the frame rail. On a supercab, it's damn near impossible to get to the SOB.

 

[laserjock]

The connector is a 6 pin weather pack rather than the ford specific connector.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Match the color codes. Just make sure which tank is which on the valve so your switch is aligned properly in the dash. Mine I think was backwards at first because I had the plumbing backwards. I didn't check which position was which when I installed it.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Sorro71]

I've been able to find the Pollak valve over here for $199. Most auto parts over here are a lot more expensive. I hope I can tie in to the nylon lines.

 

[franklin2]

I've been able to find the Pollak valve over here for $199. Most auto parts over here are a lot more expensive. I hope I can tie in to the nylon lines.

It's not exactly kosher, but the OD of the nylon lines fits the ID of rubber fuel lines exactly. A small hose clamp and it seems to work fine for me. Snug the clamp down but don't overdo it, you do not want to crush the nylon line. You can slide the rubber hose quit a ways over the nylon line.

 

[tbrumm]

Not sure if this is Pollack valve or not, but looks very similar.
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/s...l?apwcid=ecncse&ID=apw1974fof-pifutaseswSIFV5

 

[madpogue]

That ^^^^ is a 5-port version; won't work on our trucks.

 

[Sorro71]

Thanks guys.
I have purchased a 6 port pollack that should be here on Monday..then comes the fun part.

 

[tradergem]

Just a suggestion, if you can buy some Dorman steel fuel line repair kits (They come single or double kits) from your local auto parts store you can cut them down and use them to adapt your stock fuel line quick connects to the rubber fuel hose and the new selector valve hose barbs.

You can also cut off the fuel line quick connects and splice your stock fuel lines to the rubber hose using the barbed fuel line splices or use some thin walled copper tubing with OD smaller than the ID of the stock fuel lines. The nylon fuel line splices or copper tubing will keep the fuel line and hose from collapsing when clamped.

James

 

[franklin2]

Just a suggestion, if you can buy some Dorman steel fuel line repair kits (They come single or double kits) from your local auto parts store you can cut them down and use them to adapt your stock fuel line quick connects to the rubber fuel hose and the new selector valve hose barbs.

You can also cut off the fuel line quick connects and splice your stock fuel lines to the rubber hose using the barbed fuel line splices or use some thin walled copper tubing with OD smaller than the ID of the stock fuel lines. The nylon fuel line splices or copper tubing will keep the fuel line and hose from collapsing when clamped.

James

What I don't like about using any type of barb that I can get that fits inside the nylon lines, the id of the barb seems so small I am afraid I will be restricting flow. Ideally those thin sleeves for a compression type fitting would be the only thing I would want to stick inside the nylon line. I guess the factory did it though with their fittings.

 

[Sorro71]

The new selector valve finally arrived and I fitted it over the weekend.
It was all looking good when I started the truck after fitting the valve the fuel tanks indicated around half full on both tanks. So I filled up the front tank and started the truck and the gauge read full with the switch on the front tank. I then switched to the back tank and the damn thing pegged fully to the right, so I switched to the front tank and it stayed fully to the right . I'm going start by testing the switch and and work my way back to the selector valve. I've attached a couple of photos of where the valve was leaking from. It was weeping out from where "Pollack" was stamped into the housing and a picture from the inside of what appears to be a crack.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[madpogue]

Fuel gauge issue would not be with the switch. It would be with the valve, and/or wiring from valve to the gauge head.