Front end worklog

[rhkcommander]

This is my worklog for the Dana 44 TTB:

Questions at the bottom. First what I've done skipping the obvious:

• May 11th
• Took wheels off
• Took the calipers off by pushing those weird slide in clips, tied them onto the frame
• Took the 6-allen 9/64 hub screws off
• took the snap ring and other ring off, took the philips screw out, pulled parts out.
• Removed all 4 tie rods, the drag link (big one) may have been fine but not the others .
  
• May 12th
• Pulled the spindle nut, spindle etc.
• pulled the dust shield after removing 8 nuts
• working towards balljoints.

When I came to the spindle nut, I found it was a 4-pronger. I was 99% sure it was before but in another rebuild thread I heard it could be 4 or 6. Autozone only had the 6 for rent, but had a 4 for sale. It was a 4
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Question:
Any info on tightening things? Like torque spec for the tie rod nuts, ball joint nuts, etc? Or do I just get em as tight as comfy?

Question:
This is as far as I've gotten, what else do I need to do to get the ball joints out? I've got the top BJ nut off and the clip off the bottom one.

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If I run into any other problems I'll ask away. I'll take photos as I go so maybe this can become an article for future user reference

 

[bike-maker]

Are you working on a 44 or 50?
I just pulled mine apart this past weekend to change out the ball joints. The spindle nuts were 4 prong. Already had the OTC socket for it. Mine is a Dana 50 TTB. Would a 44 use the same socket? Not sure where you are in Oregon, but if you're close you can borrow mine if you want.
Tightness? There probably is a torque spec on all of this stuff, but I've always just tightend them until "comfy". For the ball joints, that would be a whole bunch of force on a 2' long, 3/4" ratchet. I can't imagine you could overtighten them with hand tools.
Are you just replacing steering components, or ball joints too? I just changed mine on Saturday. I'm still sore today

 

[rhkcommander]

Doing the ball joints too, I've got it broken down to pretty much everything off except the BJ's. not 100% sure on how to get at them. I also wanted to replace the ujoints cause they look tired

would you be willing to come lend a hand, I'm in Salem. Asking since you got some experience . I mostly just need a brain, I can do the grunting

I updated the first post

 

[bike-maker]

PM sent, then saw the update.
You got the spindle off, which can be a pain.
Looks like the pass side. Yard the driveshaft out. The other side pulls right out, and then dumps a few quarts of differential fluid all over the ground. The side you're working on, the rubber boot holding the slip joint fits pretty tight on the axle shaft, so you have to pull pretty frickin hard to get it out. Once that's out of the way, you will have access to the nut that holds the bottom ball joint in place.

 

[rhkcommander]

So just grab and pull ******* both axles? I have new u-joints for both

Thanks for all the help!

 

[bike-maker]

The driver's side just pulls out easily, the passenger side is a game of tug-o-war

 

[bike-maker]

After you yank that passenger side shaft out, do a close inspection to the inner u-joint, in next to the differential. Hope it's in good shape, because they are a pain to replace. Most people pull the entire differential out to change them.

 

[rhkcommander]

I think I read somewhere that its pinned in and you had to open the diff to release the passenger side, but I could very well be wrong . I hope not, I'd rather brute force it!

I definitely want to replace the outer u-joints, I'd like to get at the inner as well but I don't think I'm qualified to tear into the diff at the same time .

Before it started raining buckets I got at a pair of the bearings, one was scorched up some the other looked ok. I will just replace them all.

 

[rhkcommander]

Got the passenger axle out along with the upper and lower ball joints

Know of a good paint for helping against rust? I found a nice pool of water inside the beam, and was gonna paint the knuckle too

 

[bike-maker]

Sweet.
Not sure about the paint; probably something like POR15 or Rustoleum?
It's down hill from here. They go back together pretty quick, and once you've had the pleasure of completing 1 side, the other side goes much quicker.

 

[rhkcommander]

New ball joints are in, i said screw the paint and just cleaned out the beams and used a rust inhibitor goop that scrubs off.

 

[rhkcommander]

Got the u-joints out, gonna try to take the middle out while its on the diff, otherwise I'll call my friend.

 

[rhkcommander]

put in the first u-joint, looks like the holes that they mount to one was bent or something, i tried hammering it straight and I finally got the caps in and clipped BARELY. that side is a little harder to turn than the side that went on easy... probably need a new axle right? Or to take the u-joint back off and try to straighten it more?

FML

2 caps blew up before hand, precision 377s. Cast.

I had to tighten it down pretty hard to get the clip on one ear-side to go in. the other side was no problem.

 

[bike-maker]

Kinda hard to describe but..........After pressing new U-joints in they usually are left with some pressure on them. I usually open my bench vise up and set the yoke in it so two of the bearings are supported by the bench vise (horizontal ones), and the other 2 should be vertical, with the bottom one hanging down between the jaws of the vise. Get a good hold on it, and smack straight down on the yoke with a brass headed hammer a couple times, then rotate it 180 degrees and repeat the same process. This usually jams the bearing caps up against the clips just a little more, freeing up the U-joint.
Did that make sense to anyone?

 

[rhkcommander]

I'll give it a shot, thanks!

Without your help I'd just be talking to myself. I must have oilburner kryptonite