Found some yucki

[waynetrain]

I am still having issues with glow plugs, tach and transmission... welcome to the diesel world wayne!!!!!!!!!! lol gotta vent a little , head is about to explode with this dam towtruck. But i know it will pay off!

Here is some wiring yucki i found driver side fender while just trying to see what could be causing tach issues, teca etc... ( i have not checked tach sensor, pulled cluster or any of that as the tach works but only when i press the throttle and it idles up to , just guessing now, around 1k ?? hard to say cause im not familiar with how many rpms its idling, i still have not gotten the timing set to exactly what its suppose to.

Does anyone have a pic of the Teca for a 1990 ford Fsuperduty? I have searched but just says that its the teca with other relays beside and not exactly identifying it.

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[waynetrain]

big arrow looks to me like the rats that nested in it chewed on it a little. I am not sure if i should follow it all the way into the dash and tear thru the whole harness or just replace this section thats messed up.

 

[laserjock]

I think it would normally be found in the big rectangular hole in the lower right of the firewall in this pic.

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Not an E4DOA guy but I think if the tach isn't working the tranny won't shift right because it needs that signal. Might try cleaning the sensor located on the drivers side of the IP gear cover.

 

[Koch13351]

I would give all of the wiring a good look over to determine what may need to be replaced or repaired. And I'd get on it quick to avoid an electrical fire! There is no problem with replacing sections of wire that are damaged, just make sure to do it properly with the correct gauge wire for the application and ensure no wire is exposed. I prefer to solder wires and use heat shrink tube rather than use crimp connectors and electrical tape. Looks much cleaner and ensures a good connection. In some cases I have used the crimp butt connectors but stripped the bulky plastic insulator off and used heat shrink tube so it's slimmer and cleaner looking. Also, get some split loom to clean it all up and protect it once you're done with the repairs. I just recently did this with my truck as the passenger side fender where the majority of the engine bay wiring is was so horrible that it makes yours look ready for a car show the previous owner(s) did plenty of splicing and twisting wires together and wrapping them in electrical tape to make a connection. And under the dash by the column and fuse box was so bad when I got it that I could hardly use the clutch pedal without kicking wires!

 

[waynetrain]

lol @Koch13351 i just did a video im uploading now so you guys can see. I dont think i have A.D.D but i do jump to things lol so much on my plate. Ill post a link in 5 minutes when its done uploading.

 

[Koch13351]

As for tach signal: if wiring checks out ok, try what laserjock said and clean the pickup sensor. But if the trans is shifting ok then it could be a failing tach gauge. I had an '86 that had a jumpy tach that also wouldn't really move until the RPMs picked up.

 

[waynetrain]

After i cleaned trans connector on the passenger side of trans when i had to drop it to fix that front seal, i started it up one day and noticed the od light was off and was like ***. So i drove it and it shifted nicely, gave me new hope for this money maker that isnt making me money yet lol. I was able to hit around 65mph then it started jumping out of OD erratically so i slowed down to around 45 turned od off and it smoothed out a little , it is so IFY just does it at the randomness times. I do have a new Solenoid block for the trans coming tomorrow or thursday, im hoping that fixes this.


** When i towed my first car the other day, i got stuck in a customers driveway, after unloading the vehicle, i got in the truck to pull out of the driveway and the with the pedal to the floor the engine did not do ANYTHING. i kept tapping on the gas peddle , holding it to the floor and nothing .... luckily the customer was smoking weed on the side of house and didnt give a sht about me being stuck there . What i did to get it up out of there was put it in nuetral and engine rpms would go up, drop it into #2 ( keep in mind im shifting manually because i cant take off in D) and it would start to go but couldnt pull anymore than 1-2 feet and i would have to repeat, once i got out of the driveway onto the road, it still wouldnt go anywhere with the peddle to the floor , i started freaking out. Finally i got it up to around 2k rpms put it in 2 and it shifted fine , drove fine all the way back to my shop, i was so pissed ... its doing what it wants to do

 

[Koch13351]

Kind of sounds like limp mode, but that usually sticks it in 2nd or 3rd gear doesn't it? So it should still get going, just slowly. I'm not that savvy with auto transmissions. Seeing these issues arise as often as they do makes me appreciate the labor of shifting through gears. I just wish I had one more to cruise on.

 

[trackspeeder]

The TCM relay is on the driver side inner fender. I don't think this is your problem. Most likely the problem is the tach sensor.
A weak or erratic tach signal will cause the tranny to into limp mode. Start there. Try to get the codes pulled. It will make diagnosing a little easier. It might save you a few bucks too.

Changing the solenoid pack will not correct this.

 

[79jasper]

The "what is this" looks like diagnostic port.
The "what relay is this" looks a lot like the horn relay, but that should be inside behind the dash.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

 

[icanfixall]

That brown relay is the teca. Please look at my post a couple moths ago about my no tach working issue. My problem was the fuseable link had a really bad connection from some fool who thought they might be an lelctriction. They had made 3 crimp connections in a 3 inch long area od wire behind the passenger side wire. In my post is the direction for finding the always hot wire to this relay and the other wires hot only when the key is on

 

[waynetrain]

https://youtu.be/PpR1psYnME8
This demo I did

 

[waynetrain]

Do u have a link sir ?

That brown relay is the teca. Please look at my post a couple moths ago about my no tach working issue. My problem was the fuseable link had a really bad connection from some fool who thought they might be an lelctriction. They had made 3 crimp connections in a 3 inch long area od wire behind the passenger side wire. In my post is the direction for finding the always hot wire to this relay and the other wires hot only when the key is on

 

[icanfixall]

Do a search for... My truck let me down. On the third page is the relay pics telling you what wire is hot all the time. What I did to prove what failed is crimped a jumper wire from the battery directly to this hot always wire. It is the wire connection "C" on the back of the relay. That proved I was not getting power to the relay. The relay you wanted to know of is called the EEC relay. and not the teca realy like I posted. Sorry for that mistake. In my post many members posted items that explained much more than I needed but sure helped me find the failed wire.

 

[waynetrain]

hEY just wanted to give an update on this issue that alot of us have. I just replaced the brown relay in my pic and guess what..... my od light is dim and rpm gauge is not functioning at all. I plug the old semi swollen relay in and i have rpm guage working but still only when i give it gas. I do have a new tach sensor coming from ford out of atlanta in the morning, my solenoid pack came in today but i didnt want to install it until i put the new tach in to kind of diagnose and resolve issues after seeing if the new tach sensor would fix the actual gauge. So why would this new relay not work???