idiabuse
Full Access Member
Coolant filter $40
Flushing with distilled water
- Thread starter Unsung
- Start date
Unsung
Registered User
Not sure a coolant filter is going to fix this gaping hole. It doesn't look soldered in, at least not by someone's skillful hands. I can't find a good radiator shop so I think my only option is $400 worth of new radiator. I could get an aluminum one for cheaper (go figure), but I rather stick with the copper.
Knuckledragger
blowing chunks and grabbing porcelain
I may be the voice in the wilderness here, but see no particular reason to use distilled water over tap water, unless said tap water is untreated well water or from a source of known high mineral content. The engines fill the coolant and water with plenty of ions of iron, brass, aluminum and all sorts of other stuff without any drama. As long as the water source is clean, no need to make a special trip to wally world.
If you are filling a battery, that is a beastie with completley different coloring. Use distilled to prolong the life.
If you are filling a battery, that is a beastie with completley different coloring. Use distilled to prolong the life.
idiabuse
Full Access Member
is water worth it?
eventually the water used in your cooling system causes failures that pound the hell out of your wallet over and over again, especially if you own more than one vehicle. I cant afford to use water it just rubs me all wrong. When growing up they all said water was the best coolant, I learned the long hard way water is fer drinking not inside my engine.
Cooling systems are made to be sealed and not fail, until you add water, now you have a steam train. Job Security is always Job1
No!
eventually the water used in your cooling system causes failures that pound the hell out of your wallet over and over again, especially if you own more than one vehicle. I cant afford to use water it just rubs me all wrong. When growing up they all said water was the best coolant, I learned the long hard way water is fer drinking not inside my engine.
Cooling systems are made to be sealed and not fail, until you add water, now you have a steam train. Job Security is always Job1
No!
firehawk
Full Access Member
Are you saying not to use any water? Running pure coolant is not a good idea. If water is causing you problems, you have other issues. I run 80% water in all my vehicles as freezing is not an issue, but hard use (that generates lots of heat) is. I have also never had a radiator last for less then 10 years and many more than 100k miles.
idiabuse
Full Access Member
I just tried all the ways to keep an engine cool, I have found that green coolant is simply a minimum. It works fairly good last a decent amount of time and keeps your cooling jackets and radiators fairly clean, this is a well maintained cooling system, our trucks tax the whole system pretty hard.
It needs to be 100% to function correctly.
I lost my respect for green coolant at the price compared to its useful life, it just don't add up, constant pressure, cause blown hoses=more $$$ to top it off, then in 3 years buy all over again and flush it out again?
Don't you need a permit or something for all that work?
I just use lifetime coolant and all those cooling issues are nothing but a distant nightmare for me now.
It needs to be 100% to function correctly.
I lost my respect for green coolant at the price compared to its useful life, it just don't add up, constant pressure, cause blown hoses=more $$$ to top it off, then in 3 years buy all over again and flush it out again?
Don't you need a permit or something for all that work?
I just use lifetime coolant and all those cooling issues are nothing but a distant nightmare for me now.
Knuckledragger
blowing chunks and grabbing porcelain
In WWII, All of the "water" cooled combat planes used by the USA were filled with 100% glycol based coolant. It is not quite as efficient as water to transfer heat, but it boils at a much higher temp, lubricates the seals and bearings, does not induce rust, and is apparently pretty tasty (and deadly) to dogs and cats. I use a 50-50 or higher coolant to water ratio and have never had a coolant related failure in any vehicle (always human error) I have owned. I even go for several years between changes without ill effects, as far as I know.
madpogue
Full Access Member
Most municipal tap water has those same dissolved minerals. Only where municipal water comes from surface sources is it soft enough not to use a softener. Even then, municipal water contains chlorine which is corrosive. In any event, the key has already been stated - tap water initially, a couple of fill/drain cycles (before adding anti-freeze) with distilled, will get all but a trace of the tap water out.
Pure water has a lower boiling point. Okay to run it during the flush/fill procedure, but don't drive on it.
Pure anti-freeze has a higher freeze point than an anti-freeze/water mix. Above about 70/30, the freeze point goes up. It will gel at winter temperatures.
firehawk
Full Access Member
Evans is good stuff, but I only use it on my high hp cars. For stock, it is just a bandaid that is covering up a much bigger issue. For me, I like to fix problems rather than try to mask them.
drinkypoo
Full Access Member
Check your coolant for voltage production; pop off the rad cap, and check voltage between a ground and the coolant itself, don't touch the probe to any metal in the rad. If you're making more than about 150mV then you're doing damage through galvanic corrosion. The EG helps retard corrosion, which is why we don't run pure water. In an all-aluminum engine where it doesn't freeze you can get away with just water with water wetter for corrosion resistance and for wetting which helps heat transfer, but everyone else and everywhere else you want coolant additive of some kind and not just water.
idiabuse
Full Access Member
All the Mechanics I ever asked always told me *** are you talking about? I would ask them do you have a refracto meter in your tool box? When they said *** is that I would laugh and walk away.
Apparently a poor cooling system is a great source of repeat business, for me? I hate working on a vehicle that has had poor maintenance.
Yes the EVANS coolant is the best investment if you plan on owning a vehicle for a long period of time.
the last 5 months I have been using my truck for alot of heavy towing, I am in need of a gallon of coolant but the engine still runs cool when towing.
I dont have any glycol in my last oil sample so maybe I have a small leak or I just need to add more.
I have used Evans in multiple cars, you know what is so cool about EVANS? My Road Racer Taurus has not run since 2005 but the cooling system is mint, no corrosion no brittle hoses no rust! when I can afford to crank it up again I wont have to service the coolant, I did that already, done deal!
My truck the same way just drive! No rusted clogged thermostats ore blown hoses due to low coolant like water does to you guys, so to me it is much cheaper to own EVANS than Prestone!
Apparently a poor cooling system is a great source of repeat business, for me? I hate working on a vehicle that has had poor maintenance.
Yes the EVANS coolant is the best investment if you plan on owning a vehicle for a long period of time.
the last 5 months I have been using my truck for alot of heavy towing, I am in need of a gallon of coolant but the engine still runs cool when towing.
I dont have any glycol in my last oil sample so maybe I have a small leak or I just need to add more.
I have used Evans in multiple cars, you know what is so cool about EVANS? My Road Racer Taurus has not run since 2005 but the cooling system is mint, no corrosion no brittle hoses no rust! when I can afford to crank it up again I wont have to service the coolant, I did that already, done deal!
My truck the same way just drive! No rusted clogged thermostats ore blown hoses due to low coolant like water does to you guys, so to me it is much cheaper to own EVANS than Prestone!
