engine starting issues>>

[TOPHER1]

All, Have been reading lots of helpful threads here and now in need of some help/suggestions of my own. Little back ground.. Purchased a 86 F250 6.9 extended cab for my son got an ok deal on it since it would not start when we bought it and after reading all the threads here I figured I would get it and figure it out. Got it running a few months back but was getting compression in the radiator so I assumed it to have a blown head gasket. We pulled motor replace Head gaskets and put ARP head studs degreased everything and put on a fresh coat of paint. Have the motor back in the truck and just got new BB injectors form Conestoga diesel that have been pre tested. I also updated to a electric duralift pump. So here is the issue the fuel gauge on the truck says 1/8 of a tank but I get no fuel flow out of the pump looks like it surging. So I went an got a 1 gallon of diesel hooked it to the new lift pump and with a mist of starter fluid the truck starts up and runs shut it down and started back up 2-3 minutes later and fires right up. So I put gallon of diesel in the tank and I get the surging issue again. Could it be just that low on fuel in the tank or possible pickup messed up?? Any help or suggestions appreciated.
Thanks
Chris

 

[79jasper]

The tank pickup is broke off.

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I could almost guarantee with 110% certainty. Fill the tank to at least half, I bet it goes away.

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[TOPHER1]

Thanks and that is what I was thinking.. How hard is it to get the pickup out to try and fix the issue.. I don't want to rely on my 18 year old son to fill up at a 1/4 tank.. I am currently searching for how to fix pick up..

 

[79jasper]

Well for the front tank, some say you can pull the sender without dropping the tank or lifting the bed.

I have a flatbed and was able to do both of mine without dropping the tanks, nor lifting the bed.

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[redneckaggie]

I dropped the tanks but if you have an a frame or something good to get the bed off with then it would be easier to pull the bed

 

[Defrocked]

Been meening to do this to my front tank also,I'm lazy and have a laundry list of other rig priorities

 

[Kevin 007]

The tank pickup is broke off.

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I could almost guarantee with 110% certainty. Fill the tank to at least half, I bet it goes away.

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What is that you have on the end of the return line?

 

[Defrocked]

3 way barbed T, 5/8 I think

 

[79jasper]

On the pickup is the brass T.
The return is some gizmo from the factory.
Guess I should mention this is my Powerstroke.

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[FarmerFrank]

All my IDI's have that gizzmo, but they also have gasser pickup tubes

 

[79jasper]

I "think" it's to take some air out of the return fuel.
May keep it from draining back.

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[88fordidi]

speaking as a very recent 18 year old son with a broken pickup tube... about the second time you don't fill up at a quarter tank and get stranded in the dead of winter, you really start paying attention. I still haven't fixed either of my tanks; shoulda done it during my bare-frame overhaul.. the only thing I didn't touch and of course it was the thing with the issue

 

[icanfixall]

The front tank sender can easily be removed without dropping the tank. Just clean off the top of the sender so the crap wont fall into the tank when you remove it. that red lipped thing is a check vlve on the end of the return line in the tank. That fitting on the end of the added rubber hose is a 3/8 barbed fitting called a Tee. The suction or supply lines on our trucks is 3/8 line and the returns are 5/16. Most if not all tank suction heads break off and the last 1/4 tank of fuel can't be sucked out because the suction in no longer on the bottom of the tank. Its up about 3 inches when the head breaks off. See the great pics Jasper posted. Just a note about dropping a tank. They are very tuff to drop because they have about 1/4 tank of fuel in them and will have a balance issue. If you drop one please remove all the diesel before you install it. Working overhead is tuff work and holding up a tank with fuel that is moving around makes it harder even. The rear tank needs special attention to drop it without removing the bed. You have to drop it down a little at a time to reach in to remove the lines and electrical plug but.. Before dropping it cut loose the lines at the frame cross members so you have more room to drop it to reach way in to remove the lines. I didn't cut loose the lines and broke the sender. didn't know bout it till I was on a road trip and found the tank leaking. Good luck on your repair but you really don't have to do anything. Just make sure you never draw down the tanks to the 1/4 level and everything will be fine. Thats the cheapest easy repair I can offer.

 

[TOPHER1]

Thanks for all the great input.. Hope to finish up all the hookup and then will at the very least fix the pickup in the front tank. The rear tank has been on E since taking ownership but the rear tank does move when the switch is flipped so I hope all is working with it. Thanks again.

 

[Zaggnutt]

Front tank was not so bad. Remember to remove the screws holding the filler neck at the fill cap and the little bracket holding it to the bottom of the bed. Not sure what is stock on the filler neck where it attaches to the tank, some years have a plastic ring with a notch to tap it for unscrewing, but mine was a band clamp (with worm screw) so obviously had been tampered with before. There are two tubes - One on the outside of the fuel tank and one going down partially inside the fuel tank.... Disconnect the two metal lines at the sending unit before dropping. I unscrewed the nuts holding the tank to the the strap hangers but left the nuts just on, and used jack stands as "safeties" in case I dropped it accidentally. I tapped the metal ring holding the sender counter clockwise 45* as noted by other contributors and partially removed sender (shape of sender makes it tricky to remove without dropping tank but it can be done) Then I inserted hand pump (like for kerosene) and pumped out remaining diesel into can set underneath tank.

Then, I used a floor jack under the front and released bolts for hanger straps, lowered jack to jack stand. Then repeat with the rear. While on the jack stands you can remove the fill tube and sender and then pull the tank down off the truck. Length of your sender line will determine length of hose. It's really close to 10" from the sender mounting hole to the bottom of the tank. I just subtracted the difference and replaced the shower head to meet that length.

Just a note, a gallon of water weighs about 8lbs so use that number to determine what your tank weighs roughly with fuel. The tank alone is probably only 10lbs or so. Very easy to lift and move empty.

Just a note here - My truck has a 4" lift. I did all of this work with all four wheels on the ground, but with the extra clearance of the lift and tires it was a different experience than with a stock truck.