Electronic advance

[icanfixall]

For a few months me internal electric advance has worked for just about 2 minutes. The coolant has not reached 120 degrees yet either. So far I have changed the sender. Now I decided to change the top of the injection pump with a good spare. Still same issue. Now my fast idle plunger wont touch the throttle leg. I even adjusted the bracket. I do have power operating it so there must be power from the sender all the way to the fast idle and the electric advance. Any ideas what to change or check next? Maybe power to the advance is intermittent...

 

[G. Mann]

Can't help because I don't know, but when you find how to make it all work, please post it because I'm having the same issue and have for last 3 years.. Would love to "fix it" ...

 

[icanfixall]

Can't help because I don't know, but when you find how to make it all work, please post it because I'm having the same issue and have for last 3 years.. Would love to "fix it" ...

My habit is to explain what was wrong and the fix. Leaving this forum wondering is bout as back as being told.. Not now.. Wait till it gets dark... Well in this house it NEVER seems to get that dark at night...

 

[OLDBULL8]

You have to give the throttle foot pedal one cycle with key on to extend the Hi idle solenoid.

Just turn the key on without starting, check for 12VDC at the Hi Idle sensor on the pass side.

The pass side head gets hotter before the drivers side head does.
Start the engine, but have your volt meter connected to the sensor output side so you don't have to mess with a hot engine, watch for voltage when it heats up. Could have intermittent 12 volts from the key switch.

The circuit for the Hi idle, Cold advance is separate from the FSS circuit. I would bet the problem is at the connector on the pass side.

 

[laserjock]

Probably not telling you anything you don't know here but this is what I'd do.

It's a real simple circuit. When you get to temp, the switch opens. So cold you should have 12 v to the advance and the high idle. It should drop out when you get to temp. You can check function of the high idle and cold advance by jumping 12 v from the battery.

If that checks out, it's either got to be the switch or power supply to the switch.

 

[OLDBULL8]

I just edited my post above with the circuit.

 

[BDCarrillo]

So 2 minutes of proper advance and high idle... so physically it's working. Nothing in that circuit can act as a timer, so it's all on the temp switch opening at a preset temp... which you've replaced.

Where are you looking to determine that it hasn't reached 120*? Stock temp sensor? Aftermarket gauge? I'd venture a guess and say that it's operating correctly

 

[icanfixall]

Am watching this temp gauge...

 

[BDCarrillo]

Where's the sensor at for that guy, compared to the temp sensor switch?

Also keep in mind that the temp sensor switch is over some of the warmest parts of the engine. Maybe tag the metal around it with an IR sensor to see if that's what is causing it to trip? 120* at the surface in a couple minutes doesn't seem unreasonable.

I think OldBull8 was on track already:

The pass side head gets hotter before the drivers side head does.