E40D question. Internal Parts swap from gas engine E40D?

[thehollywoodjoe]

Hello all, although I've used this forum regularly, I've just recently joined and this is my first post. I have a 1994 F250 4X2 with a NA 7.3 and E40D tranny.

The truck runs and drives great, but every now and again, it seems the transmission slips (only when OD is on, and not all the time). I've read up on the issue, and have an MLPS on the way....but I'm not convinced this will cure the problem...it seems a bit more sinister than a sensor.
That aside, while I was at the junk yard pulling some hood springs for it, I found a 1992 e-series van with an E40D, with a "Ford Quality Renewal" sticker on it, and by the looks of it, less than a year old (fluid looks brand new!). What really caught my eye was that it had an F8 pump on it. This lead me to believe it's got most of the updated internal parts, even though it's a pre-95 van.

So, my question is: If I go pull this transmission, can I just take the internal parts (clutch packs, valve/solenoid bodies, etc) out of their case, and swap it into mine? Also, it's got a 4 bolt torque converter? Before I go buy it, I just wanted to make sure I wasn't incorrect in my thinking that just the bellhousing/case is different as far as E40D's for gas vs diesel engines go.

Thanks in advance!

 

[icanfixall]

Welcome to the forum. Some parts of the gas E4OD will swap over but some wont. Others will know what those parts are and post up. But when you say it slips but only when its in OD you may not really have an issue. Exactly what does it feel like. Reason I ask is these trans will unlock the torque converter when the brake lite comes on. Put the trans in 3rd gear and lock out OD. Run up to 35 mph or so and just slightly step on the brake peddle. The trans will unlock the converter and about 200 rpm spike happens. Let off the brake and it locks up again. Also the TPS switch on the injection pump does not last forever. They usually get replaced around 50,000 miles for best results. They are nothing more than a piece of metal rubbing on a coil giving the trans a higher voltage to cause it to shift. The voltage setting of the tps is between .96 and 1.2 volts at idle with key on but engine off. The engine must be warm so the fast idle and pump internal advance is off. The voltage is checked off the center wire in the tps plug. They higher the voltage the firmer the shifts but the wide open voltage must never be 5.0 or higher. That causes the trans to go into limp home mode and driving it for long distances wil ruin the trans. Limp home mode is a factroy term and designed to get you off the road to safety.. Or a Ford dealer so they can make bank off you for a new trans..

 

[thehollywoodjoe]

Thanks for the quick reply. The engine revs about 500 rpms, intermittently, and then falls back into gear. It happens at low speeds and higher speeds. I forgot to mention ive got the tps coming with the mlps. However, with such a big rpm jump, and the problem spanning multiple gears, im thinking the OD clutch pack is the problem. Also may be the solenoid, but rather than speculating, id rather just rebuild it...at as little cost as possible.

 

[trackspeeder]

You might want to find out what is going on before you rebuild it. Pull the codes.

Now for parts swapping. What you can use. All the OD parts (piston, frictions and steels). Gear set if it's a steel 4 pin steel carrier. Front pump, center support, solenoid pack and accumulator body. The other parts will be spect for a gas engine. lower clutch count. The converter will be spect for a gas engine.

 

[OLDBULL8]

Check your brake light switch on the brake peddle, it may be set to close. A bump in the road can cause it to make contact, like I've seen brake lights flashing going down the road behind some vehicles every time they hit a bump. If it's doing that then it will go out of OD and unlock the TC momentarily, then relock and go back into OD. Yeah your tach will swing 200 to 500 RPM. Bet there has been lot's of trannies rebuilt for that.

If your going to rebuild the tranny, you should get the ASTG manual for the E4OD. You'll need a couple of special tools, clutch spring compression, and clutch remover/installer. Have a couple of good torque wrenches 1/4" and 3/8", the bolt/nuts are very specific on there torque setting. Watch for all 10 rubber balls and one steel ball when they fall out and one spring loaded steel ball.

 

[thehollywoodjoe]

Thanks for the replies and suggestions. Ill be testing it today vs all of your suggesyions and let you know what i find. I did just replace the brake booster, so ill be looking up the proper adjustment of the brake light switch.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

yeah,you really need to diagnose first.you could set a freshly built racing/towing transmission in there and if it's something electrical externally on the truck,that trans could act the same exact way it does right now.
tossing hard parts at the e40d is a very costly and sometimes needless endeavor.

what a failing MLPS feels like,is the trans entering N all by itself with complete loss of power all together,and then when she finds a gear (sometimes not the correct one,and why you should slide it into N and come to a stop first) it can sound real nasty like a grind/bang when reengaging.

a common place to start even before pulling codes is to simply inspect the wiring harness for any nicks,slices etc and make sure the solenoid pack is clean,clean and clean some more.

the next time the truck does this,very quickly turn on the hazards.when you turn the hazard lights on,this kicks out converter lockup (which only occurs after 35 mph) and it may help you discover weather its a locking issue or an actual gear slip.go ahead and get a feel of what unlocking the converter feels like by turning the hazards on while driving 45-50mph and see if this isn't exactly what your feeling happening on it's own.
either way though,head right to that bulkhead connector for inspection.
with an electronically controlled transmission,first one needs to rule out anything electrical for issues before first assuming hard parts.

 

[prepowerstroke]

Hey guys I don't mean to steel your thread but my dads '90 IDI E4OD used to kick outta gear all by its self when you went around a corner and when it came back in gear it made a clunk noise. It did this for many weeks. Now it is just stuck in limp mode, like it only has 2nd gear and 4th gear and you have to shift it manually from the collomn. I put a code scaner on it and it acted like it wasn't even hooked up, could this be a fried computer? Or could have I came in plugged? And where exactly is the tranny computer on these trucks?
Thanks in advance

 

[thehollywoodjoe]

Sounds sorta like the mlps/range sensor.

 

[prepowerstroke]

Where us that located? On the side of the transmission?


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[FORDF250HDXLT]

Hey guys I don't mean to steel your thread but my dads '90 IDI E4OD used to kick outta gear all by its self when you went around a corner and when it came back in gear it made a clunk noise. It did this for many weeks. Now it is just stuck in limp mode, like it only has 2nd gear and 4th gear and you have to shift it manually from the collomn. I put a code scaner on it and it acted like it wasn't even hooked up, could this be a fried computer? Or could have I came in plugged? And where exactly is the tranny computer on these trucks?
Thanks in advance

head for the MLPS.
it sounds as if the connector is dirty or the sensor is failing.this sensor is located on the drivers side of trans.a very large sensor with a wire clip coming straight into the top of it mounted on the gear shift linkage.
this connector has been revised:
http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2602301&postcount=16

 

[thehollywoodjoe]

Not sure if its got a reputation around this forum, but rockauto.com has been a solid and cheap source of parts for me. You can find one there for about half of what the auto parts stores around town were selling them for.

 

[thehollywoodjoe]

UPDATE:

1. Wires/harness inspected and no visible defects. There's all sort of fluids everywhere, so lots to clean >< (PS pump leak, valve cover leak, rear main leak...I have a core to rebuild in the garage)
2. TPS within normal limits.
3. at about 40-45mph, I engaged the hazards. Got a good feel of what the TC lockup feels like. This is definitely not the same thing. Happens mostly between 45-50 mph, complete loss of forward propulsion/power to rear wheels and engine revs. The tachometer decided to stop working on the test run (aka trip to harbor freight) and I couldn't tell how many rpms it was revving before finding itself again. I did find that if I was accelerating hard (merging onto the freeway) it didn't have as much of an issue. What really gets it going is when I'm behind the guy deciding to go 45 in a 55...under minimal acceleration/load. Somehow they all know just where my truck has a fault and want me to live it up.
4. Brake light switch didn't need adjusting.

On a side note, I got my order of AutoRX in the mail, and will be changing the oil soon. I'll make a new post to comment on my findings once I've given it enough time/miles. Also got my tools for the 7.3 backyard/garage poor man's budget rebuild...I plan to start a thread for advice and progress reporting.

 

[thehollywoodjoe]

Not sure what to think here...

Tach doesn't work at all. Nothing at idle, nothing driving. Swapped the RPM sensor from my spare engine, no go. Swapped TECA relay with another...still no go. No blown fuses.

The funny thing is, the transmission isn't in limp mode.

So, I'm confused as all get out. This means the PCM has power, translating to power to the transmission. But, the PCM isn't telling the dash what my RPMs are. Am I right in thinking this way?

Thanks in advance

 

[trackspeeder]

Tach signal goes to the TCM. TCM needs the tach signal to adjust the shift points.