cummins isl 400 and waste oil

[turfblazer]

i own a 2008 rv with a cummins 400hp isl i believe its considered haveing a common rail fuel system and a (dpf) diesel particulate filter
i was 1st considering going bio-diesel i'm canceling that idea cause to many issues to get wvo on the road and processing it with the chemicals

i figure its gonna be easier to get wmo and wvo unprosessed! any thoughts ?

i'm planning on getting a good industrial centrifuge instead of the little 1/2 qt ones powered by hydraulics and putting that in my trailer to clean the oil

the real question is that can wmo be used in this unit as long as i do the preheating like you do with wvo
and possibly use either as a fuel or even mix them together with some diesel fuel and what % can i go up to

i figure i'll only use the alt fuel on the highway and not in the city i want good combustion without the ash formulation with slow driveing

i filter down diesel fuel to 2 micron now and i hear centrifuges if done correctly clean down to less then 1/10th of a micron

what to you smart guys think please no opinions from guys that are guessing i need professional imput !!!

i've been a gas mechanic for 40 years and some 20 with diesel but never thought of doing this before. now that i'm retired i can do what i want and that is to travel as much as possible without the fuel cost going into arab pockets and taxes going to the feds, we pay too much for fuel !!!

i built from scratch 2 wmo furnances 1 a boiler thats outside the house for the home and the second thats a combo hot air/ radiant for the garage thats inside you can't smell it at all !! the garage unit gets 45hrs out of 1 gallon of wmo with no visible exhaust except heat waves

reason i'm noteing my wmo heaters is so that whoever answers me has a good idea i have some experience in wmo and i want good advice on my next project my 300k rv and i don;t want to screw it up i want it to be perfect as i can be !!! this common rail system is new to me and the dpf might just have to be lost !

thank all you guys for the great reading a lot of your ideas have gave me other ideas and i thank your forum greatly !!!!!!!!!

turfblazer western ny

 

[gearhead]

seeing as you have a common rail i would filter it to 2 microns then centrifuge it.you may need to replace the lift pump with something more suitable for pumping thick oil.Try running no more than 15- 20% oil until you know what the engine likes best.Besides even if you are only blending the oil at 20% that is still alot of savings.Just don't get greedy and try to run something way to thick.
A heated oil container is optional,but recommended.Mostly you just need to start and stop the engine on diesel, because when the engine is cold it doesnt make enough heat to fully burn the oil.So the unburned oil cokes up the injector tips.However once the engine is at operating temp it should have more than enough heat to burn the oil.

Bottom line:
*start out small
*just when you think you have the oil filtered enough,filter it somemore with the centrifuge.
*make sure the engine likes it before you dump in the heavy doses

*enjoy the freedom that less fuel costs can provide...

it might also be a good idea to let the warrenty expire before you do anything.

the DPF might pose problems.

 

[turfblazer]

thanks gearhead i got to ask is that lewiston,ny ?

 

[gearhead]

Negatory, Lewiston, ID

 

[oly_fab]

Turfblazer, a word of advice DONT run WMO and WVO blended togather. I kept coking up injecters in my dodge by doing this. I also have a oil burner for my shop that I built and if I burn them togather it'll coke that up too.

Stu

 

[cranknrods]

Turfblazer, a word of advice DONT run WMO and WVO blended togather. I kept coking up injecters in my dodge by doing this. I also have a oil burner for my shop that I built and if I burn them togather it'll coke that up too.

Stu

+1000000

 

[Newyork204]

Love Using Centrifuges

I filter all the motor oil that goes into my oil burners with a WVOdesigns waste oil centrifuge. I have found those things to be better than any filters I ever used. It gets literally everything, including the all the condensation, out of your oil. I love it. It may not completely go back to being clear but with those centrifuges spinning your used waste oil at 1000 rpm your used oil turns almost back to new (just a slight bit browner and without the additive package).

Other than that make certain you have a preheater to heat the oil as well.

Wesley B
Anchorage, AK

 

[gearhead]

im going to be running a propane heated tank to boil the water out.before centrifuging. You wouldn't believe the water that would come out centrifugeing. I found that one out. BTW CLEAN water is lighter than dirty motor oil.With all the metal and what not in the oil,I would actually get water out the output hose before I got oil.

 

[turfblazer]

thanks for the input so far guys !!! my fuge spins at 8500 rpm i cannot believe the crap i get out of the oil after bag filtering down to 3 micron,
i've run 45 gals 8 times threw my fuge before i thought i had all the crap out , where as 1st couple runs had 1/2 " thick against the bowl and the 8th run had about 1/16" so i'am thinking thats gonna get me super clean oil.
now i took in a 15ml conical centrafuge vial a 7ml sample cleaned wmo added 7 ml clean df to thin it out shook it up and ran it in a bench top fuge spinning about 3000rpm for 5 hrs. i got about 1/4" crud in the tip.
i'm sort of confused why am i still getting crap out of the oil ???
is it possible that all this crap is just all sub-micron material that would of just passed threw the injector system anyway ???

my 1st thought is are some guys really just filtering without fugeing if so i';d guess thats most of the cokeing problem . only saying this mainly as a concern if most guys are just filtering to say a 2 micron threw a non-absolute filter ( like a bag filter ) there must be a lot of crud being burned in the cylinder. and i'd guess most are doing this in a non-common rail system. so am i going in the right direction or am i being to critial and how clean do i need to be for the common rail to not have issues.

 

[7.3 powerstrok]

any diesel with injector pump should be filtered to at least 5 micron particle size ..and for my 95 powerstroke i filter to 10 micron ,with no issues .runs every day ..

 

[tonkadoctor]

A $300,000 2008 class A or Super C recreational vehicle with a Cummins ISL and a DPF and you want to run WVO to save a buck.

Injectors $400+ each ....... + labor @ $125 hour
DPF - Have seen guys billed $15k to replace them
New engine - $30 - $40k

You done lost your freaking mind

 

[turfblazer]

yes i do want to save a buck lots of them. at 7mpg they are just pouring out the tailpipe. also its wmo not wvo i want to use.
truckers have been doing this for a lot of years with the older systems.
and as someone else stated most all diesels came with a 5 or 10 micron final filter and i'd be 100% sure they are all a (nominal) filter not a (absolute).
my final plumbing plan will include a raycor sediment bowl with a 10 mic filter then a 5 mic (nominal) then a 2 mic final (nominal) followed by a 2 micron (absolute). all filters will be housed in a insulated compartment heated from the engines water system which runs at 185F.
right now the rv has a 150gal df tank, i'am thinking of pulling out the tank and open it up and convert it to hold 50 gals pure df and 100 gals of 50/50 df + wmo. and plumb the tank with a dual 3-way valve like ford does on their dual tank systems. if this works out i'll add another 100 gal 50/50 tank as a buddy tank . that will increase my range from 1100 miles to about 1833.
the heated compartment will have a set of air actuated doors so that during cold start ups waiting to get to normal heat to switch to wmo they will be closed but when switching back to pure df they will open as to not overheat the pure df. i belive that too high a fuel temp reaching the injector can also be bad, normally temp df actually helps cool the injector.

right now you figure you burn pure df 150 gals @ $4 = $600 or 54 cents a mile.

now you burn 50/50 thats 75g df@$4=$300 + 75g wmo@ 50 cent= $37.50
gives you 30 cents a mile . plus the actual mileage increase you'll get.

10000 miles on df costs $5400 10000 on 50/50 costs $3000.

saveings will probably not be accurate at all because the 50/50 will only be used on highway under constant engine loads and not during city driveing or while running cold but if all goes well the 50/50 might get up to 75/25.

remember haven't done it yet !!! still in the planning stage but that saveing will buy a lot of nice cold beers while resting.

1 other thought only useing 50/50 only on the highways should give a good clean exhaust burn. i gotta think a lot of the cokeing problem is from non-highway driveing on wmo with guys trying too save to much. what ya think ???

 

[turfblazer]

well did my 1st running test on a older ( 1970's ) cummins 4 cyl 30kw gene . ran 50/50 after all was warm . all turned out just fine ran about 1 gal threw it at about 20% load. tomorrow will tell more gonna go for about 50% load with some 90% surges.

 

[7.3 powerstrok]

45 hours ?any photos of the burner ?

 

[tonkadoctor]

at 7mpg they are just pouring out the tailpipe.

truckers have been doing this for a lot of years with the older systems.

11 years and 1.3 million miles running over the road and I've yet to meet a trucker running WMO. Might be some doing it local. These truckstops don't give their old oil away to us. It goes to a recycler.

At 7 mpg you need to check your driving habits or get that thing into Cummins because something ain't right. 80,000 lb semi trucks are capable of 7 - 8 mpg.

I averaged 10+ mpg in this truck loaded and have seen as high as 14.7 mpg bobtail. One of my best friends now owns it and gets about the same fuel economy. His other truck is a Freightliner FL112 with a 270 hp M11 Cummins and a 9 speed and also gets 10+ loaded and 13+ empty. These trucks have a lot more aero drag than a Class A or Super C RV.

Specs

• CAT C-12 445 hp engine
• Jake brake / cruise control
• Fuller RTLO 16913 13 speed double overdrive transmission
• 3.42 rear gear ratio
• differential lock
• Single rear drive axle with 20k tag axle
• Aluminum Frame
• All aluminum wheels
• 255 70R 22.5 tires ..... 36" tall tires from the factory ;-)
• 48" double bunk integrated mini condo sleeper
• Dual 100 gallon fuel tanks with Arctic Fox tank heaters
• Air ride
• Air ride cab
• Dual air ride seats
• 160" cab to rear axle.

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