Correct front spring part #

[oztinker47]

Its time to order new front springs. The old ones have about 3/8 inch travel left. On the SD truck springs website I've found three options.
43-476, 2,575 lb capacity
43-478, 2,755 lb capacity, and #
43-478 which has a 3,486 lb capacity.
I've searched all over using google and haven't found a satisfactory answer so I figure I better ask the folks here. It an extended cab with d-50 front axle. I'm looking for springs that will hold the weight of the idi on these crap California "roads" without an early failure.

Sent from my XT1028 using Tapatalk

 

[hce]

I'm just going to add to your confusion, but you should be aware of the arc height, a lighter rated spring with more arc may sit higher once installed then a heavier spring with lower arc height.
Judging by the numbers I would say you are looking at michigan truck and spring.
I would measure your spring pack thickness. Between the thickness of the spring pack and number of leaves should help narrow it down.
Also there should be a spring code on the door jamb, get the code and call the spring company or just call the spring company.
If I pull the trigger on new springs I am leaning toward the 43-476. They have the highest arch, but I already have the adjustable camber bushings to compensate.

 

[Golden Helmet]

If Ford used the same springs in '85 that they did in '92, then the 2575# capacity ones are what you want. I was hunting for springs a few months back for the D50 in my '92 and I had the same problem you did with trying to find the right information, Google is virtually useless sometimes.

Here's the relevant post from when I was spring hunting, might be some more information in there that could be of use to you too.

 

[79jasper]

Don't forget places like bronco graveyard sell new springs also. Even in lift varieties.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

 

[oztinker47]

If Ford used the same springs in '85 that they did in '92, then the 2575# capacity ones are what you want. I was hunting for springs a few months back for the D50 in my '92 and I had the same problem you did with trying to find the right information, Google is virtually useless sometimes.

Here's the relevant post from when I was spring hunting, might be some more information in there that could be of use to you too.

They're the same spring from '80 - '96. How did the 2575# springs work out?

Sent from my XT1028 using Tapatalk

 

[Golden Helmet]

They're the same spring from '80 - '96. How did the 2575# springs work out?

Sent from my XT1028 using Tapatalk

I haven't bought new springs yet, other stuff came up and demanded my wallets attention more than the truck. All it needed to stay roadworthy was tie rods, so for now I'm just living with the shot springs. I eventually want to put a D60 under my truck, so the springs can wait until then.

 

[oztinker47]

Ordered the 2755# springs, they seem too lightweight,as soon as the truck was off the jacks I only had about 3/4" between springs and stops. Hopefully this post helps make sure no one else makes a $556 mistake like I did. Go with the 3486# springs. On the bright side, I have all new bushings up front, be a lot less creaking and popping now.

Sent from my XT1028 using Tapatalk

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Ordered the 2755# springs, they seem too lightweight,as soon as the truck was off the jacks I only had about 3/4" between springs and stops. Hopefully this post helps make sure no one else makes a $556 mistake like I did. Go with the 3486# springs. On the bright side, I have all new bushings up front, be a lot less creaking and popping now.

There is a relatively cheap solution to your problem, however it will give you a bit of lift. Put a jack under the front bumper and lift the nose of the truck till the springs are nice and flat, this is what you're new ride height will be, you could possibly go a bit lower but not by much. Anyways the solution is removing your factory bump stops and installing some air bellows in their place. Both the 2500 and 2600 series are suitable for that location, in their double-convoluted version. Generally bigger is betterm however if you go 2600s they will likely end up quite close to the shocks thus requiring "upside-down" shocks like Bilstein/Fox/King to maintain proper clearances, so keep that in mind when pricing out the whole works. The 2500-series "should" be plenty sufficient for your needs tho, and Air-Bag-It carries three versions of them - one has internal bump-stops and that is the one you want to use, it's either the Denominator II or the Slam'R, call them and ask about it. Installation is as easy as drilling two holes in the frame, however some minor fab works is needed on the axle side (namely the top plates that currently clamp your springs down) - do you have a welder or know anyone who does?

The nice thing about this setup is that you can maintain your ride height regardless of how much weight you put on the front end. I also rides quite nice. If you want in-cab controls you can go all-out with a compressor and what not, or you can plumb in just an air tank that you fill at home as needed (won't be very often at all), or you can do it on a low budget and just put an industrial Schrader valve on each air spring and fill them manually with a tire chuck (again it will be very rare occurance).

Just something to consider...

 

[oztinker47]

There is a relatively cheap solution to your problem, however it will give you a bit of lift. Put a jack under the front bumper and lift the nose of the truck till the springs are nice and flat, this is what you're new ride height will be, you could possibly go a bit lower but not by much. Anyways the solution is removing your factory bump stops and installing some air bellows in their place. Both the 2500 and 2600 series are suitable for that location, in their double-convoluted version. Generally bigger is betterm however if you go 2600s they will likely end up quite close to the shocks thus requiring "upside-down" shocks like Bilstein/Fox/King to maintain proper clearances, so keep that in mind when pricing out the whole works. The 2500-series "should" be plenty sufficient for your needs tho, and Air-Bag-It carries three versions of them - one has internal bump-stops and that is the one you want to use, it's either the Denominator II or the Slam'R, call them and ask about it. Installation is as easy as drilling two holes in the frame, however some minor fab works is needed on the axle side (namely the top plates that currently clamp your springs down) - do you have a welder or know anyone who does?

The nice thing about this setup is that you can maintain your ride height regardless of how much weight you put on the front end. I also rides quite nice. If you want in-cab controls you can go all-out with a compressor and what not, or you can plumb in just an air tank that you fill at home as needed (won't be very often at all), or you can do it on a low budget and just put an industrial Schrader valve on each air spring and fill them manually with a tire chuck (again it will be very rare occurance).

Just something to consider...

I'll definitely look into that, a local 4x4 shop told me that air bags will help extend the life of the springs too. It might take a minute to find a friend with a welder and a dry work area. My place is a sea of mud and will stay that way until spring.

Sent from my XT1028 using Tapatalk

 

[riotwarrior]

Ordered the 2755# springs, they seem too lightweight,as soon as the truck was off the jacks I only had about 3/4" between springs and stops. Hopefully this post helps make sure no one else makes a $556 mistake like I did. Go with the 3486# springs. On the bright side, I have all new bushings up front, be a lot less creaking and popping now.

Sent from my XT1028 using Tapatalk

Remember this....most jolts to suzpension in an upward travel are smaller than this imparted by a wheel dropping in a pot hole foe example.

Thus droop vs compression is quite important.

Just saying most think ...travel needs to be inches up with little to no regard for downward travel when in reality it is more often the oppozite.

JM7.3CW

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Just saying most think ...travel needs to be inches up with little to no regard for downward travel when in reality it is more often the oppozite.

That greatly depends on what you drive and where you drive it tho... Also keep in mind that having too short of a compression stroke can often result in the axle hitting things it was never meant to hit - in other words limited droop beats up pretty much just the shocks, while limited compression beats up everything and can break things you really really do not want broken.

The factory shocks have like 10" of travel, considering where they are located that's good for even more wheel travel, especially in a TTB setup. Factory F250 springs howerver are very stiff and rely on their brutal strenght to hold the front end at the proper height, which inevitably makes for poor suspension travel. As opposed to a high-arch soft spring that has to deform a lot more to withstand the same amount of force, however when said force isn't there (during suspension droop) that spring doesn't try to hold the wheel back from lowering away from the frame and thus allows it to follow the terrain better. Which is what you want in a 4x4 truck

 

[riotwarrior]

Lets face.it the ttb stock is a fantastic idea that ultimately was not executed to the degree which it shoukd have to provide a quality ride and long life.

The nature of the reverse arch spring and small amount of up travel from stock compared to how well it could have been in regards to this makes me wonder what they were thinking.

Also the Op said he replaced springs but where they NEW with new bushings and also new ttb bushings?

 

[oztinker47]

The only bushings I did not replace were the TTB to cross member bushings. the new springs and shackles came with new bushings pre-installed, saving me that bit if hassle.

Sent from my XT1028 using Tapatalk

 

[HS108]

Ordered the 2755# springs, they seem too lightweight,as soon as the truck was off the jacks I only had about 3/4" between springs and stops. Hopefully this post helps make sure no one else makes a $556 mistake like I did. Go with the 3486# springs. On the bright side, I have all new bushings up front, be a lot less creaking and popping now.

Sent from my XT1028 using Tapatalk

Why did you choose this spring vs the others?

 

[oztinker47]

Why did you choose this spring vs the others?

Same thickness measurements as the old springs.

Sent from my XT1028 using Tapatalk