coolant temperature switches needed

6.9poweredscout

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My one switch runs both fans, then I have a kill switch for deep water crossings. I made the mistake of betting a 185 degree switch and it never turns off the fan. Well it's good to know I can get to 235 without an issue. I like keeping the scout around 200, seems once I get it around 220 it never wants to cool back down.
 

pwjackson

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If one was installing/ordering an electric fan from say JEGS what CFM would be required to cool the IDI engine? I would much rather pay $150 for a fan and $30 for a temp switch than spend $170 on an OEM type fan.
 

cpdenton

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I have a question also. Where are you guys installing all these switches? Or going to install?
 

LCAM-01XA

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If one was installing/ordering an electric fan from say JEGS what CFM would be required to cool the IDI engine? I would much rather pay $150 for a fan and $30 for a temp switch than spend $170 on an OEM type fan.
The fans I run came from a '98 Windstar. If you can look up their CFM somewhere, that would be a good starting point. Obviously more is better tho. Do keep in mind that these fans may very well not be able to keep up if the engine was pushed real hard - in the Rockies I was running both fans and I was NOT towing heavy, I was still a bit over my GVW but not anywhere close to what I used to gross out at with a car carrier in tow. Then again my radiator is OK at best, so when that one gets replaced there's a good chance the fans duty cycle drops down significantly... At least I hope it will LOL


I have a question also. Where are you guys installing all these switches? Or going to install?
Mine are going in the filter coolant filter head, which is plumbed in between the engine and the heater core. Temperatures will be somewhat lower than what you'd see on the gauge on the dash, but that shouldn't be an issue if the switches are matched accordingly. I've also seen folks mention installing the temperature probe right in the water pump. Additionally, the IDI has an overheat switch already installed from the factory - all it does on these engines is turn the red "engine" light on (according to the EVTM this happens at about 247F), so if you watch the gauges (be it factory or aftermarket) there is no real need for it - you can remove that switch and install either a different switch for e-fans or a sender for an aftermarket gauge.
 

LCAM-01XA

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I no there is a single in radiator 2 pole temp switch that was used on one of shuv-ets little cars that should work. Can't remember witch one it was. God I hate getting old! It's a single switch radiator mounted and originally controlled a 2 fan relays the relays had a solid state board time delay on and off. It's high temp setting I think would be perfect 230 degrees. The normal was 190 degrees. But the time delay had a cool down. fans would run untill the temp in the radiator dropped down and after the vehicle was shut off.
So does "shuv-et" mean a Chevette? LOL Would this be said switch?
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...9gslt?itemIdentifier=248732_377288_18589_1382

It fits all '80-up Chevettes, diesel included. Sometimes listed as California emissions application. All other switches and senders are 1-terminal, some are spade connectors (cars with idiot lights) and some are round pins (cars with gauges, but everything except for this one is 1-terminal setup.
 

LCAM-01XA

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Yeah I know, actually none of the parts stores switches have specs listed if they're sold as direct replacements. Guess I'll be bringing my ohm meter and checking continuity - at room temperature I want to see open circuits between switch body and each pin, as well as between the two pins. If I get a reading between the pins then the switch likely is not a switch but a variable resistor sender...
 

rlb245

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I've used a candy thermometer to check and see what temps the switches open and close and a in line variable resistor to calibrate the temp sensor to a gauge
 

LCAM-01XA

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Necromancing this thread, with an update - fan switch for early-'90s Firebird with the 5.7 EFI engine seems to work quite well. Fan comes on at like 230F and kicks off at like 220F. The gauge reading these temps is mechanical and its sender is installed in place of the factory overheat switch. The fan switch is installed in the back of the engine in the port that is used on 6.9 engines by the glowplugs controller. Port is 1/2" NPT and switch is 3/8" so a reducer bushing is needed between the two. Fan switch has a single round pin which gets grounded when fans need to run. Grab yourself the proper harness pigtail from a junkyard Flamechicken, or squeeze a female bullet connector down to size, either way works. Use switch to ground the pull coil on the fan relay, I have mine in parallel with the manual switch in the cab so I can turn the fan preemptively or wait for it to kick in on its own. For deep water crossing I just pull the relay :D
 

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