coolant diagram

[subliminal]

yea i read that somewhere, i thought it sounded screwy, thanks alot. what is teh part # for that valve or what do i tell the dealer i need?

 

[vegas39]

What he said...as I understand it, the coolant needs to loop back.

And, I have to ask...why'd you spend $60 on the manual valve setup? The vacuum-operated bypass is only about $20 at the dealer, and at least on my truck, it works VERY well...the heater hoses beyond the bypass valve are nice and cool, and I don't have to go under the hood to switch the valves when I do want heat..

I didnt think that far ahead, I was leaving on a trip and needed to get it done.
As for the dealer, I have never been able to spend just $20 dollars at a dealer! Everything I go to a dealer for, seems to break the bank.
I am pissed now that I know I could have done it cheaper and had a less ghetto looking setup!
Anyone out there need some brass valves?

 

[The Warden]

yea i read that somewhere, i thought it sounded screwy, thanks alot. what is teh part # for that valve or what do i tell the dealer i need?

I THINK it's Ford part number F87Z18495AA, and they just called it a valve. Tell the parts counter guy that it's for a '96 Ranger, and it should look like this.

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If I'm looking at the right receipt, it cost $22.16 in 2006. I would recommend getting the actual Ford valve; I tried one from Napa first and it has a constant leak, and the price was about the same.

I didnt think that far ahead, I was leaving on a trip and needed to get it done.
As for the dealer, I have never been able to spend just $20 dollars at a dealer! Everything I go to a dealer for, seems to break the bank.
I am pissed now that I know I could have done it cheaper and had a less ghetto looking setup!
Anyone out there need some brass valves?

Here's a thought for the brass valves...you could install a coolant filter, and use the valves to cut off coolant flow to the filter for servicing it. The filter head won't cost you that much extra, and your cooling system will thank you for it.

Just a thought BTW this is what my setup looks like right now, with the heater core bypass and the coolant filter head installed.

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[subliminal]

thanks , that explains it well!

 

[subliminal]

got the valve from auto zone, $17.99 plus tax. i also found that the vacuum line going to the recirc/vent had been cut by the p/o and the white vacuum line that feeds it was stubbed up in the loom. i fixed that and tee'd in the valve and man does my a/c blow cold on max now. i switched to norm both valves actuate perfectly. it is cooling of here in fla now but at least next summer ill be ready!

 

[The Warden]

Glad it worked for you

 

[subliminal]

it was a heater valve for a 96 ford ranger 3.0l v6 fyi. i dont know if its the same part for the 2.3's or the 4.0's? but thats the one i got and it works great.

 

[Agnem]

Last one I bought was for a 99' Ranger with a 4.0, and yes they never changed them.

 

[NimrodBodfish]

This help?

Do you have the full manual by chance? Or know where I can get it?

 

[Cubey]

For what it's worth, 3rd gen Econolines with IDI used a mechanical heater hose valve, controlled by vacuum. One can use that if you feed it a vacuum source that you can turn on and off from inside with a valve.

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[IDIBOBS]

The one from a mid 90s for ranger work the same but return the fluid back into the system. Works really well.

 

[Cubey]

Do you have the full manual by chance? Or know where I can get it?

This thread is from 15 years ago. I just noticed that, myself

 

[Linctex]

Why'd you spend $60 on the manual valve setup? The vacuum-operated bypass is only about $20 at the dealer

Shoot . . . they are "free" at the Pick-N-Pull!

 

[HS108]

This thread is from 15 years ago. I just noticed that, myself

I noticed it when I saw all the big powerhouse names (Mel, Russ, icanfixall, Warden) in this thread…

Plus I looked RLDSL hasn’t been online here since 2014