clutch brake

[dondiesel444]

does anyone know how to adjust the clutch brake? when I push the clutch in all the way, it grinds going into first and reverse. maybe the clutch itself needs adjusting but I think maybe it's the clutch brake??

 

[Roland_Jenkins]

On what? Oh never mind.

How to. Clutch Brake Adjustment

On Edit: and turn the ring clockwise with your adjusting tool = long screw driver

 

[Duke]

Don,

Sounds like we need to get a few more MACK guys here so you can have someone to talk to!!!

It'll happen, just give it time and keep telling others about the M/D forums. More members bring more knowledge.

 

[NJKen]

does anyone know how to adjust the clutch brake? when I push the clutch in all the way, it grinds going into first and reverse. maybe the clutch itself needs adjusting but I think maybe it's the clutch brake??

The clutch break on most trucks is just a friction washer that gets crushed between the throwout bearing and the transmission input shaft housing. Make sure that your clutch is in proper adjustment before anything. You should have 1/2 or so of free play in the clutch pedal before you feel any resistance. If that is OK it is possible that your linkage is worn out or out of adjustment. Take the inspection/adjustment cover off the bell housing and try to take a look at the clutch brake. Make sure it still has some meat on it and does not look like a burned up washer. If it is trash you could get a split brake. You cut the original out (w a torch) and place the two halves of the new one around the input shaft. Once in place you drive a couple of roll pins in to keep the two halves together. If you brake looks OK you will need to adjust the clutch linkage to get the proper throw to clamp down on the clutch brake.
The number one cause of clutch brake failure is pushing the clutch pedal to the floor while roling with hte truck in gear.
Ken

 

[Ak HDM]

Don, if you remove the inspection plate on the bottom of the bellhousing & the clutchbrake is o.k., then check the clearance between the throwout bearing and the clutchbrake, it should be 1/2 in. If it is more, the clutch will need adjusting in the pressure plate by turning the adjusting ring with the clutch pedal depressed, it will take 2 people unless you can use a stick or a rod to hold the pedal down. I made an adjustable tool with a piece of pipe and a piece of allthread that would slide in the pipe and adjust to the right length with a nut on the allthread,[ i used 1/2 allthread], placed between the pedal and the seat frame. Once you get the 1/2 in clearance, you adjust pedal free play by adjusting the linkage from the pedal to the arm on the bellhousing. I hope this helps you. Also, if you go to Roadranger.com ,they have service manuals that can be downloaded . .Eaton/Roadranger has the Spicer medium& heavy clutch line. you can also get service info on the eaton axles and roadranger transmissions. I would guess that you probably have a Spicer clutch, it's about the most popular. All the Macks I've been around had Spicers

 

[dozer]

AK, since they re-did the RR website, I've not been able to download any service manuals. I can't get their @$@# "form" to work.

Is the new site working OK for you? I'm wondering if it's their site, or my browser...

I wrote to them about it, but they never bothered answering...

Richard

 

[Ak HDM]

AK, since they re-did the RR website, I've not been able to download any service manuals. I can't get their @$@# "form" to work.

Is the new site working OK for you? I'm wondering if it's their site, or my browser...

I wrote to them about it, but they never bothered answering...

Richard

I haven't gotten on roadranger's site for a while, and just tried to download from it and it won't download for me either. I don't know what they did to it

Mike