I'll have to remember that. I saw them before but didn't know about the spade terminals...
Well the downside of those is that IIRC they don't have amperage listed on them. And today I learned first hand what overloading a diode does - hooray for melted harness! When I installed the thing I was running just factory lights and 6A diode was fine for them, but add the 4" bumper lights and the current goes high enough to where diode starts to burn my fingers within a minute of holding the brakes on - I can only imagine what would happen if I got stuck in traffic w/ camper loaded and jeep in tow (two more pairs of brake lights, so double the already overloaded current draw). So I spent the whole afternoon and evening today fixing that and adding brake/turn relays so it will never happen again, 40 amp relay per side oughta keep this thing happy now. Also since I was making a breakout harness for the relays anyways I figured tis the perfect opportunity to pre-install the control circuits for some cornering lamps I plan on adding to the front bumper some day - Ford actually has that setup on some '80s passenger cars so I robbed parts off one and whadyaknow, the trigger wires for those cap-relays match the F-series wiring code! Not only that, but there are two wires per trigger terminal (both color coded the same) and since I only need one to trigger the relay from the respective front turn signal the other wire can be used to feed voltage back to my blinky rear marker lights, as per your suggestion, to stop them from going out while I'm on the brakes - I didn't actually run the frame rail wiring for that yet, this will happen after enough Captain consumption some other day, but at least now I have my staring points all easy to access and properly color-coded to boot! But guess what, all this work, and I just realized I forgot to install a new diode to prevent voltage backfeeding into PCM when 4-ways are on - always something, I tell ya, tis a neverending nightmare. Actually since I mentioned that, can you do me a favor? Turn your 4-ways on, unplug the harness from the BOO switch, and measure voltages at the two terminals - one will be constant hot battery voltage, I'm interested in what you get on the other one... Thanks in advance!
Not sure what you mean by this. Some CA law? I don't have any rear facing amber RUNNING lights, but i will have dedicated turn signals/strobes...
Nah, not you - the amber rear marker lights thing came from what RJJP said about MI state law, apparently they allow rear amber markers (or apparently even brake lights provided the markers are red) but severely restrict the number of amber lights you can add to sides and front of truck... And how are you making your strobes work, using the flash-flash-pause pattern alternating sides, or something different? Did you buy a controller, or you're building one yourself?
I can understand that. Theres a Dodge around here that mounted 4" round lights just like my taillights under his rear bumper. Just an idea that shouldn't require and mods to your gate or bumper.
My leds are very bright when lit as a brake/turn light. I'm going to be redoing my taillight set up to add reflectors at the corners and have a total of 4 brake lights and 2 dedicated turn lights. If someone rear ends me now, they shouldn't be driving...
I was also thinking Danielle can run four 4" lights, but have two strictly for turn signals, and use the amber LEDs that light up in the shape of an arrow for them - don't think the message can get any clearer than that. Then the other pair of 4" lights can be tail/brake, or just brake for maximum effect, in the "packed w/ gazillion tiny LEDs" red variety.