Can not get 89 7.3 idi running

lucasborrow

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I'm very new to Ford and idi. Bought an 1989 7.3 idi with 87,000 miles that has been sitting for 3 years from my buddy and he agreed to try to get it running. Put two new batteries in it to get it to crank over faster. Cracked the line loose on the injectors and when cranking over fuel bubbles out. did oil change, fuel filter change, took off valve covers and oiled the push rod and lifters and all lifters do move. at first before all that sprayed starting fluid in intake but didn't work. Put 4 new glow pugs in it and have 4 new ones coming tomorrow but I have a feeling they are not getting hot for some reason don't really know how to tell if they are. fuel pump in pushing 5 psi. Some people are saying injector pump is bad but don't really know how to tell. 2 out of the 4 glow plugs that were in there do work I tested them when pulled out. I don't know if it is normal but when I turn the key on I have to go to the injector pump and push up in like a lever with a spring in order for the little rod right in front of it to push up. Stuck at this point someone please help!
 

OldIron82

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I believe that rod and spring are the fast idle control that stays engaged for a few minutes when the engine is started. Or possibly the fuel cut off mechanism that actually stops the engine. These are only guesses as I am a total newbie to idi's myself although I really like the engine and do consider myself a enthusiast. All I can say with 100% certainty is be VERY careful with the funny juice. Unfortunately today I may have caused damage to my engine and I am very conservative on how much I spray. This place is addicting! I'm sure you will find the answers you seek.
 

OLDBULL8

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Doubt it has only 87K on it, with a 5 digit odom who knows.
Any how, that lever on the IP you mentioned is the cold advance lever, it's operated by a solenoid under the IP top cover, the wire connection to it is the one toward the firewall, the other connection toward the radiator is the FSS (Fuel Shutoff Solenoid), with the key on engine off, check for 12VDC on it. The Cold advance solenoid is powered thru a temperature switch in the pass side head kinda under the Alternator, this switch also powers the cold Hi idle solenoid, it's plunger touches the IP throttle tab, you have to make one WOT to make the plunger come out all the way. Hi idle is around 950-1000 RPM. When the head reaches 120* it shuts off the power to them.

The injector lines only spurt a little fuel out of them, bubbling means air is in the fuel system, bleed the air out while cranking at the filter schrader valve/tire valve, getting lots of air means your sucking air, if the tank pickup (shower head) is broken off, the lift pump won't suck fuel with less than a 1/4 tank.
 

typ4

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Jred had a truck he could not get started, after a while we took the injectors apart and turns out the fuel system was full of water. Make sure you have a clean fuel supply.
And if you find water anywhere I bet the injectors are stuck.
 

lucasborrow

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Also there are rubber hoses going in between each injector connecting the nipples together and we took the hoses out and when cranking over it doesn't send fuel through them
 

sassyrel

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get a 1 qt spray bottle. put chainsaw mix in it. while someone turns it over, spray in intake...should start, and wont damage the engine like ether....may have to keep spraying,,till it catches fully....also,,ordinary spray bottles,,the o ring in the plunger,,will die, even if you empty the bottle,,and clean it out with water...been there.. you need one for a long term basis that will stand chemicals,,such as whitewall cleaner...and yes, ive used this many times on any diesel, including a friends semi,,that it wouldn't start when it was right at zero.............................he stopped driving it in early October..............YEP!!!! tamks still had straight 2 in them!!!!!!!!!! :backoff
 

FarmerFrank

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Either no power to the FSS or I've seen pumps "gunked" up from sitting. IF you unhook the wire that is closest to you, with the key on, on the right of the pump (looking at it from the front) and it makes a click noise when you hook and unhook then it's most likely good. If it does that try to fill the filter with Seafoam or some sort of cleaner and whirl the engine. That will help loosen things up in there.

If you don't hear a click the the top of the ip has to come off to replace the solenoid. When you do that full the up with ATF to help clean anything out.

Good luck!
 

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