buying new to me but used 6.9l with turbo kit

[hypermax22]

i built about 20lbs boost in my 94 two nights ago when i was draging a import car. i got that truck today i ended up giveing about 2,500 for it i went to the local tsc and got a gooseneck ball and a new break controler. i stoped at the parts store and picked up a fuel filter and oil filter and i think going to go ahead and change the air cleaner on it to and get it ready to use nexted week i got it for a plow truck to clean parking lots off with. is there any thing a bout a 6.9 i should know about or is it like a 7.3 just smaler cubic inch

 

[sle2115]

i built about 20lbs boost in my 94 two nights ago when i was draging a import car. i got that truck today i ended up giveing about 2,500 for it i went to the local tsc and got a gooseneck ball and a new break controler. i stoped at the parts store and picked up a fuel filter and oil filter and i think going to go ahead and change the air cleaner on it to and get it ready to use nexted week i got it for a plow truck to clean parking lots off with. is there any thing a bout a 6.9 i should know about or is it like a 7.3 just smaler cubic inch

The 6.9 is just like the 7.3 as long as the 7.3 is an IDI (pre 94 1/2 I believe) but is not anything like a powerstroke other than being an international. The 7.3 IDI is more susceptable to cavitation because the cylinders are bored larger, making them thinner.

I am not sure what 7.3 you have, but if it is an IDI, it has larger head bolts (1/2 inch) versus the 6.9 (7/16 inch) which give it a little more strength holding the heads on at higher boost. The IDI motors are high compression though and prolly wouldn't like that kind of pressure long term as the cylinder pressure is already high.

 

[Diesel JD]

hmax22, are you sure your 94 is a factory turbo 7.3 or is it an early PSD? The 7.3 IDI looks almost just like your 6.9 truck, the powerstroke will not have that big injection pump spider on top of the intake, and it won't have the injectors or glowplusg visible, they are under teh valve covers. The IDIs are mechanically injected and have a compression ratio of 20.7:1 to 21.5:1 while teh PSD uses HEUI injection and several computer sensors to manage the fuel injection and is around 17.5:1 CR. If you are boosting 20 psi on an IDI you'll burn something up soon unless it has some sick internal mods. 20psi on a PSD is par for the course for sure.

 

[Diesel JD]

Also the 6.9 has more problems with headgaskets and smaller headbolts but little to no chance of cavitation with proper coolant maintenance, even less ifyou really are on top of it like with a 7.3 IDI. Also the vlave seals aren't positive on a 6.9 so it can use more oil between changes, but as a result there is much less likelihood of dropping a valve.

 

[hypermax22]

no it a 7.3 idi turbo diesel. the charger i have is the ats aurora 2000 it usally build about 15lbs but it built 20lbs the other night i never thought it would but it did. so a 6.9 should be a alright engine i mean far as for what i'am going to be using it for

 

[69oiler]

you can get head ARP studs for the 6.9 which are rated better than bolts as far as clamping force goes. that is if you end up with a gasket problem. my '86 NA 6.9 made it to 292K on the original heads/gaskets.

 

[Diesel JD]

Yeah the 6.9s are great. I would never voluntarily give mine up. It works hard without a complaint and makes a good toy or DD. I would like to see you keep the boost reasonable like 13psi or less unless you want to upgrade to teh aforementioned studs and updated gaskets, but its your truck and your money, and maybe the mods are what you'll need to be happy with it. At that point you'll need a turbo cal pump and Stage 1 injs. to get the most out of it.

 

[hypermax22]

well i a want the truck for is to shove snow. i have a a 7.3 idi turbo diesel that you see in the pic and i also have a 96 powerstoke that i'am building to pull. but i just was wanting to know some things about a 6.9? if i can count on it like i can on my 7.3

 

[69oiler]

the 6.9 is as reliable as a 7.3. you may have glow plug controller problems if you dont have a solid state controller. older 6.9s had a crappy controller and lots of guys just wire a manual switch to fire the plugs. (8 second burn max on stock motorcraft plugs only) older models had a weak spot in the block around the block heater and were prone to cracking if the block heater was used. there is a cutoff # for that when they improved it i wanna say 176000 or something but someone will correct me with the exact casting number. if you have the older block just dont use the block heater and you will be fine.

if you have a 4 sp manual tranny the 6.9 has a solid flywheel so no DMF BS.

6.9s do use some oil, mine uses i think 3-4 quarts between changes (3500 miles or once a year or whenever i feel like it)

other than that they are basically the same as a 7.3. my 6.9 has had no special treatment (just a head/gasket job) and is still going strong with 307k. they are a tough motor.

 

[hypermax22]

thanks for the info i might freshing up the motor this summer when i get the chance

 

[6.9L DIESEL]

LITTLE TOO MUCH. 2000-2400.

 

[FordGuy100]

LITTLE TOO MUCH. 2000-2400.

:***: . What are you trying to say there?

 

[sle2115]

:***: . What are you trying to say there?

I think he was answering the original question - How much to offer!

 

[FordGuy100]

I think he was answering the original question - How much to offer!

Oh, got cha. I guess I started out on page 2 , no wonder that made no sense.

 

[sle2115]

thanks for the info i might freshing up the motor this summer when i get the chance

Got any pictures of the engine?