bought a 2000 excursion

CheckYourBuffer

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so a week ago or so i bought a 2000 ford excursion. blinkers and breajlights worked when i bought it . the blinkers arendt working snymore neither are the break lights . the hazard works but doesn’t blink . also the esof switch for 4wd is missing and the truck slipped and now is in 4wd until i fix that switch or find a manual way . someone please help
 

79jasper

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Holy moly dude.
Well the lights sounds like maybe the multifunction switch.
I think you could remove and plug the vacuum lines going to the hubs, so it's not locked in. Won't hurt to drive like that.
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austin92

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Even if the hubs arnt locked in, does anyone know what speed the front drive shaft is balanced to?


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79jasper

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If the ujoints are good, it's not a problem.
Do you know how dodges work? Turning all the time.

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snicklas

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I have an 03 6.0 Excursion. I've not felt really any vibration difference with the hubs locked or unlocked. Driving speeds from idle to 80 on the interstate.

If the hubs are unlocked the front driveline shouldn't be turning. If it is, It definitely isn't spinning at the same speed as if it were locked. I've recently replaced everything in the front axle. Timken unit bearings, Spicer U-Joints and all the seals,including the vacuum seals and other than everything working properly, there is no difference in vibration. The only thing left to replace is the tie rod and drag link and everything but the axle shafts, housing, nuckles and gears have been replaced.

Once you get the vibration sorted out, if you then find yourself chasing a clunk, make sure to replace the Sway Bar End Links, Track Bar Bracket Bushings and Steering Stabilizer shock. I replaced the ball joints with XRF (highly recommended) along with the other listed items, and still had a clunk when hitting bumps and a creak when turning. The clunk was the track bar bushings and the creak was the stabilizer shock.

So at this point I've replaced on the front axle:

Brake pads
Brake rotors
Both unit hubs
Ball joints
All seals inside hub for ESOF
Vacuum seals
Axle shaft (knuckle) u-joints
Sway Bar End Linkes (look like a dog bone)
Sway Bar (track Bar) Bracket Bushings, these are on the back side of the axle under the u shaped hold downs
Steering Stabilizer Shock
Shocks with Bilstein

Everything is nice and tight and quiet. Once I replace the tie rod, drag link and ends it should drive better than new. Now there is between a quarter and half inch of play in the wheel and 90% of that is wear in the drag link to tie rod joint. Truck has 169,000 miles and the steering linkages are the factory ones.....
 

austin92

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If the ujoints are good, it's not a problem.
Do you know how dodges work? Turning all the time.

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So does my jeep but it's front drive shaft is balanced. If it has lock outs the drive shaft could've safely came from the factory unbalanced because it was designed not to turn at highway speeds


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79jasper

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I can't tell you the exact speed it's set to, but I'm fairly certain my front shaft on my 94 is balanced.
I've had my hubs locked before and never noticed any extra vibration at speed.
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austin92

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I can't tell you the exact speed it's set to, but I'm fairly certain my front shaft on my 94 is balanced.
I've had my hubs locked before and never noticed any extra vibration at speed.
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By no means am I calling you a liar or trying to stir **** man. Just saying some are balanced and some aren't and the ones that are can be balanced for different speeds.


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79jasper

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Oh for sure.
That's like people wanna drive 90. You should see what a driveshaft looks like at those speeds. Lol

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snicklas

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I believe they are balanced. I've not felt any vibration with the hubs locked. I had the passenger side vacuum seal fail and the ESOF hubs wouldn't lock with the switch. I found this failure after it was winter, so I just manually locked the hubs for the winter.

For those who don't know how the lockouts work for the ESOF (Electronic Shift on the Fly), when you switch to 4x4, vacuum is applied to the hubs for a short time, causing the hubs to lock. When you select 2wd, vacuum is applied again, and the hubs unlock. Best analogy is clicking a ball point pen. However, there is also a knob on each lockout you can turn, just like manual lockouts and leave them locked or free. So if they are locked, no matter where the switch is, the hubs are locked and you are turning the front driveline all the time. It's not being powered unless 4x4 is selected.

I ran this was all one winter and felt no difference. The only change I saw was a slight fuel economy reduction.
 

CheckYourBuffer

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update: i fixed the blinkers, it was a melted fuse and i popped a new one in. blinkers work and same with hazards now . i need to fix my break lights though , besides that she’s doing okay besides be stuck in 4wd
 
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