Body Bushings Help Please

plywood

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Well, I was under the truck the other day and noticed that the front two of the six body mount bushings were bad so I ordered a set of the Energy Suspension type, and of course it came with all six. (Why do I even get under it anymore?)

For the rear four bushings the instructions say to make a puller for the bushings here.
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/Installation_Instructions/Energy_Suspension/17027.pdf

I did so and when I started cranking, when it got real tight the nut just came unwelded from the big washer.

Sooooooooo,,,,,,,anyone had these apart and have any ideas, I've never had them apart so I don't even know exactly what I'm dealing with.:dunno
 

jwalterus

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I never have seen anyone use something like that, I've always used a hacksaw and cut em flush with the top of the mount and taken the two pieces off
 

plywood

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So meaning that is where the two pieces meet and you just lose that width of the hacksaw?

That actually makes sense.:sly

Maybe I'll cut the rubber off so I can see where exactly I'm cutting and bust out my new Milwaukie sawzall, been looking for another excuse to fire it up.

The front were a pain also, I had to cut the rubber off them so I could hold the top metal piece from spinning because they were pretty well corroded to the bolt and wanted to spin with it. Course, in hindsight that may be because the top nuts were not tight. I think the core support must have been off or something and in typical body shop form they forgot to tighten down those nuts. :mad:
 

nyteshades

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I just finished this....ugghh...what a pain in the a$$. To answer your question, these dumb things have a press flair fit in the middle of the inner bushing. If it's the back bolts, I just used a BFH on the tops of the bolts. Bottom fell right out.

BTW, I reused the tops of the stock bushings for the inner bushings, then replaced the stock bolt with a grade 8, locking nut, and fender washer.
 

plywood

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Total pain for sure.-cuss

It's one of the middle two of the six that I had a problem with and I see what you're saying about the hammer but the nut on the underside came unwelded from the washer before the two pieces came apart.

Maybe that'll be the only one that goes that way. I haven't even tried the rears yet since they are so hard to get to from the bottom.:mad:

Luckily I just put new exhaust on right in the way of the pass rear one.:rolleyes: and the fuel tank is in the way of the other.

I wonder if on the X-cab the tank is more to the rear so not an issue.

Well, thanks for the response.
 

nyteshades

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I had the tank out to do the swap from gas to diesel, that's the main reason i decided to go ahead and do the bushings.

Without the nut, I think you are limited to a saw or a torch.
 

plywood

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Well I finished up on the front two today and I'm gonna wait on the four rears til I have the bed off to replace the fuel sender card.

I had the bed off recently and I have a shop crane so it'll go easy.:D

Thanks for the input, I guess it's time to break out the new Milwaukie Sawzall.;Sweet
 

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