block heater problem

[anvil]

Howdy all,,

I am new to the forum,,and have a problem. I have a '85 3\4 ton ford 6.9l diesel. I replaced the starter and saw a wire that was not part of the starter. I did not remove it but may have bumped it. I suspect it is the plug wire for the block heater.

anyway when i got the starter put back in, the block heater did not work. I went to Napa and they said the block heater is in the left(passenger side) freeze plug. I have just dug out of a lot of snow,,Colorado blizzard,,and am getting ready to look into this.

I found an online manual,but it dont have anything on the block heater. Any info would be appreciated. Hopefully it isnt bad, but if so,, how do i replace it?. Hopefully i just knocked the wire loose.

thanks in advance

anvil

 

[Exekiel69]

Welcome to the basement.

 

[anvil]

Great!! thanks thats just what i needed... thanks alot

anvil

 

[adelyser]

Isn't there an issue with the old-style 6.9 blocks to be careful of when using the block heater? Seems I've seen some comments before about the block heater cracking the block, which is bad news, especially in this weather. You may want to find out more about this problem first, just my opinion.

 

[82F100SWB]

An 85 shouldn't have an issue with the block heater, IIRC, it's the very early 83-84 engines that do. I know I use the one in my 6.9 lots with no issues.

 

[highest_vision]

As far as I can tell it is likely any 83-84 calender year models. 85 truck built 10/84? Maybe not use it. There is a block S/N that gets tossed out once in a while, mine is before that, but I have an august of 84 build truck so maybe it could have gotten an 84 engine
If you get worried get a tank heater. I have never used my block heater and truck starts fine. Doesn't get subzero too often here though
James

 

[Mr_Roboto]

Check before you plug in.

"Some unfortunate 6.9 blocks have been known to crack in the vacinity of the block heater, which is located on the passenger side near the center of the lenght of the engine. Some have been sucessfully repaired. Most have not. Take a look at this area to ensure the integrity of the block, and throw away the cord to the block heater if you buy it. You do not want to use the factory block heater on any 6.9. Empirical wisdom on how to identify these blocks...
Block casting........INTERNATIONAL HARVESTER DIESEL ENGINES
6.9L and 7.3L Core Identification
6.9L Old Style Block
Block Casting Number:
On left side of block (beneath oil cooler) 1805440C1
Note: Some 440 blocks are truly new style and must be visually inspected by raised donut around the block heater, frost plug (right rear). Old style below serial number 173828.
Visual Identification: *No counter bored area for block heater
*No defined area on side of block for dip stick
*Thickness of cast iron around block heater 3/8" (.375")
Head Bolts: *7/16, 12 point socket is used to torque head bolts
*Block tapped with 7/16-14 for head bolts

6.9L New Style Block
Block Casting Number: 1807996C1 Note: Some new style blocks have casting
number 440. Above serial number 173828.
Visual Identification: *Has counterbored area for block heater
*Very defined relief area cast in side of block for dip stick tube.
*Thickness of cast iron around block heater 15/32" (.470")
*Latest style (not all new style 6.9) has ribs around head bolts, rear two on left side go from head gasket surface to pan rail - same as 7.3
Head Bolts: *Same as old style 6.9 "

 

[anvil]

Thanks to all of you

Interesting info. I will check the s\n and see what block i have. I am learning diesel by my bootstraps here, so bear with me. This is my second year with this truck. No broken block as best i know. I assume if i did, i would have a fluid leak in this area, and I don't.

It gets pretty cold here in Colorado,,definitely subzero, so what are my options for keeping this engine warm? Right now i start her with either,and it is a long process, ******* the starter i just put in,,and takes about a half can of either to get running.

I just replaced the thermostat,and my next project is the block heater or an alternative.

thanks in advance

anvil

 

[adelyser]

Sounds like you'v got some glow plug issues, or a fuel system problem if it's that tough to start.

Mine's hard to start, but I can get it after 2 or 3 cycles of the glow plugs, and I'm working on a solution.

Even at 0 degrees, if your fuel system and glow plugs are properly working, it should fire right up, especially with a new starter.

Where are you located, I may be able to provide some assistance if needed.

 

[adelyser]

Also, if you're glow plugs are in good shape, don't use ether, it will kill them quickly. Use WD-40 as a starter fluid, it works great.

 

[anvil]

adelyser,,

thanks for your quick reply, I changed my info and listed where i am from,, Not far from you. Woodland Park, just west of Colorado Springs.

The glow plugs are not working. Again my Kids suggested i just use either to start as they tend to burn out rather frequently, so i never put new ones in when i got this truck from them a year or so ago.

Lol,, any help would be appreciated

Hey,, a great snow year huh? first in a long time. You guys out there nearly got blown away this last week!! Woodland had 60mph gusts,,but where i am,, i am protected,,and heard it blowing overhead,so missed that one.,, And snow this weekend perhaps too.

anvil

 

[adelyser]

Yeah, that's not far, we go to the springs more often than Denver. Wind is really aweful in my area too, have to bolt everything down so it doesn't end up in Kansas.

As for glow plugs, I buy the Beru/Motorcraft glow plugs from Autozone, and they seem to last very well. I've read complaints about the other brands buring out quickly, so I'd recommend these, at about $10 ea.

Could also be your glow plug controller, the older style like in your truck isn't as reliable, and many people switch to the newer solid-state setup from about 87-on. This setup has the bullet connectors on the end of the glow plugs instead of the spade connectors.

If your block isn't a problem one, then the block heater is a good option too, just wish I could plug mine in while at work! Just use a timer to turn it on about 4 hours before you want to start it, and it'll work great.

 

[anvil]

adelyser,,

Thanks for the help,, When I got this truck my kids put either a new or a used controller on as it was bad. Same with some of the glowplugs. I will look into the solid state conversion. Have you a brand name for this? i imagine it is avalable at Napa.

I used to shoe a lot of horses years ago when i was a full time farrier in your area. Most likely the people have moved on. seems to be the case. It has really grown up in your area, like most places, but still a nice place.

anvil

 

[adelyser]

Anvil,

It's not a brand name, but rather just a newer setup. The solid state system was implemented on the 1987 6.9's, and used on all the 7.3 IDI's from 1988 on. You either just need to purchase the parts, or there's a kit that used to be available from International, but not sure if you can still get it. Here's the Tech Article about the procedure: http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=3346. You will need new glow plugs, as I think the old system was a 6-volt setup, and the newer system is a 12V. They list the conversion kit part numbers from International too.

 

[Mr_Roboto]

Both of the glow plug systems use 12 volts...

With working GP's your truck will start in cold weater without starting fluid or plugging in (plugging in is still recommended).

If you are using "half a can" of starting fluid, you are using way to much. More than a tiny bit actually prevents the engine from starting since the starting fluid will ignite far before top dead center. About 1/2 second of spray is all that you need.

IMHO, the "solid state" system is just as troublesome as the 6.9 thermal system. The only difference is the thermal system tends to stick "on" and burn out the GP's where the solid state system tends to short cycle when there are problems.

If you don't mind pushing a button for 8 seconds before you start, wire in a manual control. I recommend the dual coil plugs for any manual system, they are inexpensive (compared to constant duty plugs) and in my experience trouble free.