Any Evans WC & Oil Temps Data?

[THECACKLER]

Anybody running Evans WC have data on what their Oil temps and Water Temps are running? I understand that the Waterless Coolant runs warmer but I don't know how much. That in turn would seem to stand to reason that the Oil Temps would run even higher, as mine do, just a few degrees higher than the coolant. I've always tried to keep my Oil Temp below 230* to avoid additive break down, so if the Evans WC indeed runs hotter, it would seem to dictate the use of Synthetics in the Pan.
So... I'm overhauling an IDIT to replace my 370+Kilo mile puller, and am going to break it in with John Deere Break-in Oil for the first 5K or so, maybe 15K. It's a 10w30 Dino oil and I'm hesitant to run it with WC, so that's a coolant switch over down the road.
So... How much work is it to purge the EGC/H2O out of an installed engine and cooling system. I've got Block Drains but I know it's typically a pain if not impossible to get it all out with the engine in the chassis. So what's the recommended procedure? Pull the Radiator and Heater Core to dump them out, then reassemble and run the Evans purge fluid?

 

[Exekiel69]

Yes, there is a member running evans AFAIK, hope He sees this. The good things I know about the evans coolant is that is does not boil at the same temp as regular coolant and that apparently Yo never have to change it, that is if You don't have a hg fail or an oil cooler seal go bad.

 

[Diesel JD]

RLDSL is the Evans WC user. I'm sure he'll have something to say about this. I've never taken my oil temp but my truck does not work hard for a living and I've only seen 230 on the water once...pulling the boat in traffic with the AC on full blast and I for dern sure corrected that quick. My oil analysis always seems to be good except I've had high lead, either due to the bearings wearing out or particulate strike, and Blackstone always wants to think that the potassium and sodium in my oil is from the coolant, which would be reasonable if it weren't for the fact that I am running biodiesel made with potassium and sodium base catalysts and have an unfortunately high amount of blowby past the rings and no coolant loss at all.

 

[RLDSL]

Not overly difficult to get the stuff in. flush everything with water till it runs clear, , those flush and fill T kits come in handy here, Disconnect everytning, open all drains, remove lower hose, drain everything, including block drains, now you can use the prep fluid or just some extra evans coolant here ( advised)
and fill the block till it displaces all the water out the block drains and the evans starts running out , then stop and close them off, then you can do the same to the rad, or you can, if feeling stout remove teh rad and shake it around to remove teh water and get it good and dry before proceding on it to save some coolant, then on the heater core hit it with low pressure air to blow out the water remaining best as possible for a few minutes as if flushing an ac evaporator, then pour in some evans until you displace any remaining water . You will waste some coolant , but you will get all the water out this way

My memory stinks too bad to remember what my oil temps are, but I am running Amsoil 15w-40 diesel and marine in the thing so I'm really not too concerned. I know my oil temps get quite a bit hotter than my coolant temps do, but I've also got that fancy Rodney Red radiator in that thing and an MS tech fan clutch to boot and that truck runs cool as can be no matter ho hard I push the poor beast.