*** Am I supposed to do with this?!

[Cruiseomatic]

After 5 filling up full, I pulled the intake and valley pan....Here is what I found......
Already seeing signs of gasket failure:
This bolt came off of the intake port for 5.

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Then this....

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And this is the only part that is "up". The rest are still down on the heads.

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Notice, There is not one bit of gasket sealant anywhere on this thing except under the IP.....I've seen some bad ones but damn..... Although, Other than chocolate oil, Shes rather clean.....Besides the intake ports....I haven't even pulled the rocker covers yet....

 

[riotwarrior]

Not really to sure what you are saying...

All I see is it looks like water got into intake myself....

 

[Dieselcrawler]

Yep I see no gasket failure just water or condensation that got in intake

 

[Cruiseomatic]

Then maybe I see something others don't.....Both heads need to come off. Most likely I've got rust in cylinder walls and the crosshatch is gone by now. Then, Because of the water I got out when I first pulled the drain plug, My crank and internals have rust. What I see is, The engine is done for and either machine everything to get it back to spec or just get another engine that isn't full of rust. Either way, It's going to cost about the same. And neither the truck is in the position or am I to do either. After tearing into old 6.2s from hmmwv's, Just because the **** runs doesn't mean its going to run long. It WILL crap the bed at the worst time it can. I may have had 45 psi of oil pressure at cold idle, what would it of dropped to when hot? How long could this thing of lasted like this? My guess is, Not long. I'm just glad this came up now and not later. Hell, Just to get this red POS onto pavement to do a head job or even engine swap is going to involve a tow bill. Just to move it 100 ft is going to be around $100. I may be defining insanity here but this is nuts.

If I sound pissed off, It's because I am.

 

[icanfixall]

I'm lost in this post. Questions to ask are where did this engine come from. Wehre you running this engine. What made you remove the intake. As for rust on that bolt.. That is not an issue. Water can and will leak down past the top of any bolt ans rust it up. But you see the threads that run into the heads are NOT rusty. Nothing actually seals the washer to the intake manifold. The surfaces are machined but not to the point they will seal completely. Now figuring out where and how this water filled the intake is the most important thing to do. I do not feel the bottom end will be rusted up either.Remember that water is heavier than oil so it goes to the bottom of the pan. About the only thing on the bottom is the pump pickup. the crank and oil pump are up much higher. Depending on when this engine was cranked over or run I feel if you get the oil pump opened up soon there will be no damage to it if water was sucked up into it.

 

[Cruiseomatic]

I'm sorry, I thought this pos was kinda known. The engine came with the truck. I didn't run this engine until last week. I drained the pan as soon as I got it home a year ago. When I pulled the plug, about a gallon of water came out then black Dino sludge that took an hour to come out. I did an oil change then and did another before I started it. It was running good, I went to fill the cooling system and bleed it down. She was doing good, suddenly stopped smoking and shut down like I pulled the key. Pulled GPS and 5 gushed water. Refilled on its own and I could pump it again. Pulled intake to see if it was a intake gasket problem or freeze plug gave. I was asking, now what do I do as in, what would the idi gods here do if this was their ******* engine. I'm already planning on pulling the engine this friday. And stripping it. I could do just heads but if I'm that far, might as well check the internals. Not sure what to think at this point. Sorry for a run on post. Using desktop version on phone at work.

 

[icanfixall]

Thanks for explaining my questions. Seeing the water filled a cylinder or 2.. Its best to strip it down and full rebuild. Sorry for the not so good news.

 

[Cruiseomatic]

Kinda figured as soon as that intake came off... What does a "mid-range" rebuild kit run and where would I get it?

 

[bbjordan]

One step at a time...

Ya, what the other guys said: Looks like water got into the intake. This is not an uncommon problem when the seal between the firewall and the hood fails to seal. Water drips down onto the air cleaner assembly and finds its way into the intake.

Before you get too far wallowing in self pity, get the engine out and pull the heads. Your expectations are about as low as they get, so things can't get worse right? On the bright side, the engine did fire up and sound ok, at least for a while.

For inspiration check this out: http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...-(don-t-try-this-at-home)&p=926834#post926834

That little bit of rust in the intake ports will come right out when you port the heads.

Don't give up on it just yet, these engines are pretty damn tough.

 

[Cruiseomatic]

Actually, this engine was left with the hood popped open to the first click with NO air cleaner assembly on the intake manifold. So it was open for who knows how long. I just didn't realize the damage was THIS far. I set my expectations low so if I find worse, its not a terrible blow.
Going to try to pull her this Friday. I've already got fuel and electrical disconnected and the PS pump line needs cut off because the retainer nut on the pump is rounded off and the pulley shaft is bent.
All I should have left is trans divorce,engine mounts and oil filter removal.

I was surprised she ran at all when I found this. I'll start reading the other thread when I post this. It did sound alright but remember, The injectors haven't fired in YEARS, The diesel that came out looking like......well.....it was really dark brown and the IP I got to replace my failed original was "adjusted" by the PO I got it from. I think he said it was turned up but he would turn it down for my engine. So it may need fine tuning. And I also had a blown head-gasket. On top of all that, She would start WITHOUT needing ether. So all those combined and she still tried to run, I feel shes worthy of a re-build.
Now, For that first start in all those years, maybe 10, I did need to use ether but I wasn't surprised or worried she might of been an "ether baby".

Ironically, When I was installing the new stereo and restoring the factory wiring, (Yes, the factory wiring was cut but was soldered back. As in, they cut the connectors off, stripped all the wires, and re-soldered the "new" stereo wires to the harness and the connector back.) I was able to locate a factory connector and put it all back. But I did it a little different when hooking up my new pioneer unit. Still working on it.

BUT, What I was getting at is, While the stereo was out I found a folded piece of paper. It was hand written maintenance records from the true PO, Not the guy I got it from who basically trashed it without touching it.

We'll see what Friday brings.

 

[79jasper]

Oh yeah, for the power steering line, try grabbing it with some good vise grips.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

 

[dgr]

The power steering nut probably isn't rounded altough they sure do look like they are on these lines. You don't need to open up the power steering system to pull the engine. But if you want to pull that line, unscrew the 15/16" piece it threads into. The line actually spins free inside of the larger piece. Don't drop the valve and spring inside.

 

[Cruiseomatic]

No, this one really is rounded off. My line wrench couldn't bite and even my combo couldn't. Vise grip time.

 

[Cruiseomatic]

Got the PS line off. Actually, The nut that is in the pump came off and the line stayed attached to it....

Opened more last night and found this:

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[bbjordan]

The valve train actually looks pretty clean other than the rust from condensation. The coolant passages look...ah...colourful.
Must have been run with just water in the past. A good acid flush would clean that up.

The injector...looks like the bottom piece stayed in the head. You can take the top part of the injector and grind the coarse threads off. The fine threads will then thread back into the bottom part of the injector, and once it breaks free, you should be able to get it out of the head.

I see you have given up on the truck. Oh well, can't save them all. I still think the engine is worth salvaging tho.