aftermarket fuel level gauge

[SPR1NK]

Ok, so looking around on here I've found plenty of stuff on how aftermarket fuel level gauges won't work with stock sending units, but can anyone tell me what I would need to get or do to be able to put an aftermarket gauge in?
New sending units needed? Or what?
I want to rebuild my whole instrument cluster but I can't without knowing how to make the fuel gauge work

 

[jaluhn83]

Not really possible, at least not without serious work. Stock gauges appear to be about 10-75 ohm (f to e) whereas the standard aftermarket is 33-240 (e - f) IIRC - both the values and the direction is off, so you'd get something that moves the wrong way and/or is inaccurate. Might be able to get close with a euorpean type gauge (they use something like 10-90 ohm IIRC) but it would still be backwards. Probably the easiest way to cross connect the 2 would be an embedded microprocessor (ie PIC) based setup with a conversion table programmed in - not overly difficult to do all things considered but would need a high level of homebrew electronics/programming expertise to do.

The easier option is to just stick universal sender unit in the tanks - can be done either by cutting a new hole into the tank top of by cobbling one onto the pickup in place of the stock unit. I did the former in one tank (rear) and the later in the other and both have worked decently. I'd recommend the later (replacing stock unit) as it's fairly easy and straight forward. You can also use the stock float and arm and I found it was quite easy to bolt the universal sender to the mounting plate of the old one.

 

[SPR1NK]

So where would I get a universal sending unit? Just from whatever company I get the gauges from?
And does a universal unit replace the whole thing that goes in the tank, or just the electronic parts? And do they still work with the tank selector?

 

[jaluhn83]

Any gauge co should have them. I recommend Isspro for gauges and senders, but pretty much any should work. Just make sure the ohm range matches the gauge you use - shouldn't be an issue but always good to check.

Is just replaces the actual resistor unit on the in tank part - little square bit where the float pivots. You'll use the same pickup tube assembly. Will work fine with the switch valve too - that's just a switch for the tanks, nothing special.

 

[OLDBULL8]

You might try this place for repair.
http://tristarrradiator.com/Services Page/Services.html

 

[Danielle]

I'm actually going to be trying this route also if I can't locate a good cluster with working gauge. I ordered an aftermarket gauge from autozone, and this gauge has different settings for resistance. Phantom fuel gauge - part number (for autozone) 5814. Says has the 10-73ohm. It might be backwards, so I'll let you know how it turns out if you want haha.

 

[SPR1NK]

In usually use autometer and they've worked fine for me, but I'll look into isspro for that

Repair for what?

 

[Andertusa]

There are also sources like JCWhitney, though they are moving in the 'specific vehicle fitment' route, which is moving away from us with the ability to see a 'universal' part and envision making it work for our project. Almost any place that sells gauges, whether they made them or not should have a sender or can get you one for the gauges they sell.

 

[madpogue]

Not sure where the 10-75 F-E came from. Slantnose is 8-85 F-E. The bricknose should be high resistance full, low resistance empty. On the OBS, that's 22.5-145 E-F; I _think_ the bricknose is the same. Still not in the range of the generic ones, though. Last thing I'd do is cut another hole in the tank. Just another potential leak point.

 

[Danielle]

Looking at a few of the gauges out there, they come with different t kits for different resistances so you choose the one best for your needs. They're supposed to work with an existing working sending unit