After some investigating last night, I have a few ?'s with pictures...

[My9373]

Hey guys, so yesterday was beautiful out, so it gave me a good chance to get outside and really get into my engine bay and check this truck out. I've owned it since February, and put a few thousand miles on already, but have yet to truly get into this truck like I did yesterday, so here's a few things I found, with questions. I'm writing this from work, but when I get home tonight I will be able to post pictures, took a wholeee bunch to help as much as I could. Anyways,

1.) When I removed my air filter housing to start building a temporary CAI, I found a HUGE rats nest of what looked like lint and dryer lint trap stuff bundled up right in front of the air cleaner assembly, luckily no rats still in it. Thats unimportant, what I found that concerned me was that when I took the air cleaner assembly off, in which I cut out the soup bowl and air deflector by the way, and put a 4" cone filter on in place of the plastic ram air piece, I found that the old air filter was covered in a thin layer of oil on the inside, and also the "bowl" part of the soup bowl had a thin layer of oil coated on it too, does this mean something important, because it just doesn't really seem normal to have oil splatter on the air intake. I also noticed that on the long bolt that holds the air cleaner down with the wingnut on top also has oil on the threads as well. Is this a problem? (Pics to come shortly)

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2.) Finally found the notorious IP pump, I know all about it and such, but have never actually seen the thing until yet, and it really seems like turning up the pump is a pain in the neck to get in there on the side of it like that to adjust, ESPECIALLY if the allen screw isnt alligned correctly. But I'll be adding a turbo soon so I'll have to find my way in and turn it up a little soon.

3.) I noticed a few things on my radiator, one was a little pooling of coolant (which is SUPER green still btw) around the base of the radiator fill cap. Is this just a little cap or resevoir overflow or something different? Also, idk if this is just a weird quirk from the factory, but there is about an 1"-2" wide spot on the top of the radiator just to the right of the filler cap and it looks almost like its a little melted, the rubber is sort of wrinkled and twisted, whereas of course the rest of the radiator is smooth and solid. Just curious if this could be a potentional problem or not. (Pictures to come later)

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Also this gunky buildup doesn't look good either...

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4.) Underneath the brake master cylinder seems damp looking (not to the touch) but underneath the booster (large, round black section between master cylinder and firewall) looks very damp with brake fluid and really is damp. Again, is this a possible serious problem, if so, what may be the culprit to that?

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5.) I think I'm ok as far as injectors and lines go, the injectors are in excellent shape and the return lines are spotless and dry, but I have no idea what the age of them are. Should I consider replacement? When I get my turbo installed, I'm going to have a Moose Pump built and then for maximum performance I'm also going to get Moose Misters too, so I think I'll just cope with the injectors as-is now. However, where are the glowplugs located? Those I may replace, because during the day under normal use, the truck starts instantly without having to wait to warm up anything, but when I first start it first thing in the morning after sitting all night I usually wait for it to warm up with the WTS light for about 10-15 seconds. Idk if this is normal, but again, I also don't know how old the GPs are, so I was thinking of just replacing them for precaution. I believe Bosch is the way to go, avoid the Autolites? PLEASE correct me if I am wrong here.

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6.)The other day, I noticed something dangling from my truck, and when I checked it out, turned out to be a strand off my serpentine belt! When i popped the hood, 4 of the strands had stripped off and flown about the engine bay, 2 of them even got wrapped around the fan! One was really hard to get out too.. So needless to say, now my serpentine belt has two strands left, which is not enough for the truck to start with because I tried starting it today, and it will crank no problem, but I don't think the belt has enough strength now to turn the engine over, so the serpentine belt is also in need of replacing. If heard amazing things about the Goodyear Gator belts? Anyone know where i can buy one for a 1993 7.3L N/A? And if so maybe the part number and price ballprk too?

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And my leaky passenger side valve cover:

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And what looks like a factory HP rating too, hahah!

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Those were my main things I have noticed while under the hood, and on an unrelated note, does anyone know what size the midship tank is and the rear tank? I need to buy a new midship tank sending unit, but rockauto has like 3 different tank sizes/types. Again, it's for a 1993 F250 7.3L N/A Ext. Cab, 8' bed.

THANKS GUYS!

 

[jonathan]

i would do the ip and the injectors at the same time. the glow plugs are by the injectors. as far as got glugs go motorcraft/berus are the good ones

 

[My9373]

i would do the ip and the injectors at the same time. the glow plugs are by the injectors. as far as got glugs go motorcraft/berus are the good ones

Ok cool thanks ill look into those then. Thanks

 

[smolkin]

the old air filter was covered in a thin layer of oil on the inside, and also the "bowl" part of the soup bowl had a thin layer of oil coated on it too, does this mean something important, because it just doesn't really seem normal to have oil splatter on the air intake. I also noticed that on the long bolt that holds the air cleaner down with the wingnut on top also has oil on the threads as well. Is this a problem?

My '84 did that after the soup-bowl-ectomy too. Many folks have theorized about what exactly IH was thinking putting it there in the first place...I think it was to muffle intake sound AND to help keep the oil off of the filter element. When I replaced the CDR it helped somewhat, but there is always going to be some vaporized fuel/oil that waft up out of the intake. To see what I'm talking about, take off the air cleaner, start it up and let it run til warm, then shut it off and look at the intake grille. That mist will condense on the soupbowl and result in oily residue. It will do that to your filter, too, so I inspect mine every couple months, and always replace it when I do an oil change. The couple of extra HP is worth it, I guess, and I just like the no-soup-bowl sound.

 

[rjjp]

3.) I noticed a few things on my radiator, one was a little pooling of coolant (which is SUPER green still btw) around the base of the radiator fill cap. Is this just a little cap or resevoir overflow or something different? Also, idk if this is just a weird quirk from the factory, but there is about an 1"-2" wide spot on the top of the radiator just to the right of the filler cap and it looks almost like its a little melted, the plastic is sort of wrinkled and twisted, whereas of course the rest of the radiator is smooth and solid. Just curious if this could be a potentional problem or not. (Pictures to come later)



6.)The other day, I noticed something dangling from my truck, and when I checked it out, turned out to be a strand off my serpentine belt! When i popped the hood, 4 of the strands had stripped off and flown about the engine bay, 2 of them even got wrapped around the fan! One was really hard to get out too.. So needless to say, now my serpentine belt has two strands left, which is not enough for the truck to start with because I tried starting it today, and it will crank no problem, but I don't think the belt has enough strength now to turn the engine over, so the serpentine belt is also in need of replacing. If heard amazing things about the Goodyear Gator belts? Anyone know where i can buy one for a 1993 7.3L N/A? And if so maybe the part number and price ballprk too?

Stock radiators didn't have plastic ends on them, so I don't know on that one.
The engine will run without the belt, just won't spin the accessories.
19 Gallon is the one you want (16 was a standard cab short bed thing).

 

[My9373]

My '84 did that after the soup-bowl-ectomy too. Many folks have theorized about what exactly IH was thinking putting it there in the first place...I think it was to muffle intake sound AND to help keep the oil off of the filter element. When I replaced the CDR it helped somewhat, but there is always going to be some vaporized fuel/oil that waft up out of the intake. To see what I'm talking about, take off the air cleaner, start it up and let it run til warm, then shut it off and look at the intake grille. That mist will condense on the soupbowl and result in oily residue. It will do that to your filter, too, so I inspect mine every couple months, and always replace it when I do an oil change. The couple of extra HP is worth it, I guess, and I just like the no-soup-bowl sound.

Oh ok, I just wanted to be sure this wasn't something major leaking or cracked internally, thanks. I haven't started mine with the new intake yet but I'm looking forward to it, I hear it sounds pretty awesome.

Stock radiators didn't have plastic ends on them, so I don't know on that one.
The engine will run without the belt, just won't spin the accessories.
19 Gallon is the one you want (16 was a standard cab short bed thing).

No, it doesn't have plastic ends, that odd spot is on the top of the radiator, which feels like a really solid rubber material, definitely not plastic. It is the stock rad.
If the engine will run without, I don't why it won't fire then... Maybe she needs more fuel... SUCKS not being able to know how much gas I have!
And thanks for the tank size, I figured it was the 19gal because it gave the wheelbase dimensions for the truck which sounded right but I wanted to be 100%, Thanks

Derek

 

[TWeatherford]

You definitely don't want anything but Motorcraft/beru glowplugs. It will probably be hard to get them for a decent price locally, so plan ahead and order them online. If you wait you might get a great deal, usually they can be found for $10 each or so. Before you go to do the glowplugs, start soaking down the old plugs with some penetrating lubricant, to help them come out as easy as possible.

I've only replaced one serp belt and its two years old, I think its a gates. Had to pay $50 at oreilley's, the only place that was open. Most likely you'll need a 111.8 inch or a 112.5 inch belt, and if you don't buy both they'll probably sell you the wrong length. My advise, buy both and return the one that doesn't fit. Make sure you know how many ribs the pulleys on your truck will take. On my truck I have a mix of accessories (from the PO), including an 8 rib power steering pump pulley, a 7 rib vac pump I believe, and 6 rib everything else.

 

[My9373]

You definitely don't want anything but Motorcraft/beru glowplugs. It will probably be hard to get them for a decent price locally, so plan ahead and order them online. If you wait you might get a great deal, usually they can be found for $10 each or so. Before you go to do the glowplugs, start soaking down the old plugs with some penetrating lubricant, to help them come out as easy as possible.

I've only replaced one serp belt and its two years old, I think its a gates. Had to pay $50 at oreilley's, the only place that was open. Most likely you'll need a 111.8 inch or a 112.5 inch belt, and if you don't buy both they'll probably sell you the wrong length. My advise, buy both and return the one that doesn't fit. Make sure you know how many ribs the pulleys on your truck will take. On my truck I have a mix of accessories (from the PO), including an 8 rib power steering pump pulley, a 7 rib vac pump I believe, and 6 rib everything else.

Thanks for the tip, I'll start price shopping a set of Motorcrafts now, no hurry to install them just yet, and with college just ending this week, I've got all summer break to finish them.

I'll definitely buy both size belts, I've done that so many times before, I got one, when it was the other one. I'll definitely grab both. So in your case, even though you have a 7 and 8 rib accesory, you can only run a 6 rib belt right?

 

[TWeatherford]

Thanks for the tip, I'll start price shopping a set of Motorcrafts now, no hurry to install them just yet, and with college just ending this week, I've got all summer break to finish them.

I'll definitely buy both size belts, I've done that so many times before, I got one, when it was the other one. I'll definitely grab both. So in your case, even though you have a 7 and 8 rib accesory, you can only run a 6 rib belt right?

Correct, 6 rib on an 8 rib accessory. I try to align it when installing so its as straight as possible on the pulley, not constantly stretching one side of the belt or the other.

Cool to see another college guy here. I graduate with Mechanical Engineering exactly one year for now, as long as Heat Transfer and Vibrations go well in the fall at least. I got my truck about my 2nd year of college, and its been way more trouble than its worth but I like it anyway.

 

[zebrabeefj40]

The dampness under the master cylinder is leaking brake fluid. Means the master cylinder is on the way out. From what I see I'd fix the belt and brake master then worry about the other stuff. I'd hunt down an aluminum brake master to replace the cast iron part on there now. Less internal corrosion issues down the road IMHO.

Good luck!
Nick

 

[My9373]

Got the serpentine belt replaces turns out I have the leece neville? Alternator so it required the 113 belt not the 111. A pain to put on but only took 15 mins. Easiest way was to put a break bar on the tensioner and pull real hard and slip the belt over the alt last. Not a terrible job and the beast is back on the road.

Tweatherford- its definitely cool to see another college guy, I got my truck this feb and have fallen in love. I graduate two years from today with a Criminal Justice degree; cars are just my obsession and hobby. While these old trucks can't outrun a power stroke or cummins, mine has no problem dragging them around a parking lot. My '93 out pulled a buddies '00 7.3 ps like a piece of cake, we were all shocked. I love this old truck

 

[My9373]

Damn, how hard is a MC to replace?

 

[nsjames]

Damn, how hard is a MC to replace?

depends, do you have rust?

If no rust, not a big deal, bleeding it will take longer than removing and installing one.

If rusty, plan on doing the hardlines too, you'll hose them up removing them.

hose down the tops of the flare fittings where it meets the tube for a fe days with PB blaster before the job and you'll probably not have any issues. Might want to invest in a flare wrench set, but I've always had better luck with vise grips.

 

[itsacrazyasian]

Correct, 6 rib on an 8 rib accessory. I try to align it when installing so its as straight as possible on the pulley, not constantly stretching one side of the belt or the other.

Cool to see another college guy here. I graduate with Mechanical Engineering exactly one year for now, as long as Heat Transfer and Vibrations go well in the fall at least. I got my truck about my 2nd year of college, and its been way more trouble than its worth but I like it anyway.

Another ME guy... Cool.