'94 powerstroke hot start problem

2500cummins

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My brother has a '94 powerstroke in his shop that starts fine cold but won't start after its warmed up.
No codes.
It starts when warm with a very small shot of starting fluid.
Rumor has it, it will start if pulled, he has not yet verified this.
Thinking of a possible low voltage while cranking problem, he tried a booster pack with no improvement.
Any suggestions?

Thanks
 
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Renegade

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2500cummins said:
My brother has a '94 powerstroke in his shop that starts fine cold but won't start after its warmed up.
No codes.
It starts when warm with a very small shot of starting fluid.
Rumor has it, it will start if pulled, he has not yet verified this.
Thinking of a possible low voltage while cranking problem, he tried a booster pack with no improvement.
Any suggestions?

Thanks

Howdy Sounds like a classic case of a bad IPR 0-ring (Injector Pressure regulator) its mounted on the back of the high pressure oil pump. The basic jist of it is cold oil is thicker & will allow the regulator to build enough oil presssure to allow it to start even with some getting around the bad 0-ring.

Once hot the oil is thin enough to not allow enough pressure to start as the computer must see a set amount of oil pressure in the oil rails from the ICP sensor to allow it to fire the injectors. (somewheres around 750 lbs pressure I recall)

I dont have the IPR rebuild kit part # handy but I'll look for it as it a lot cheaper to repair than to replace the IPR itself.

Cheers
 

Roland_Jenkins

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1. cam positioning sensor
2. Check the drain at the bottom of the fuel filter and make sure its not letting air in.
3. Bleed an injector line and listen for escaping air.
4. Injector pump is stuck. You can test it by turning the key on and removing the pink wire going to the injector pump. It should click on and off as you touch it. If it does not it is stuck. You can usually tap it and free it up.
5. Check lift pump pressure.
6. Something else altogether, in which case ignore all of the above.
 

Mike

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IPR O-Ring Kit (for when IPR valve replacement is not required)
(Ford) F6TZ-9C977-AN (F6TZ-9C977-AA?)
(International) 1825806C92 (1825806C91?)



Above info taken from HERE .
 

bigdraft

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Goooooooood luck! Did my IPR o-rings a couple weeks ago, along with the FPR shim kit, and the HX Mod from Tymar. Not too bad when it was over, but alot of cussin' while under the hood!!!!!!!!!!! -cuss
 

Believer45

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COACH DAVIS EXCELLENT INSTRUCTIONS said:
PART NUMBERS FOR IPR KIT

(Ford) F6TZ-9C977-AN
(International) 1825806C92

I've been having a slight problem with my truck not wanting to idle very smooth especially when hot and the more miles the oil gets on it, the worse it would idle. With the engine cold it would idle pretty smooth, but hot, it had somewhat of a shake to it. When I purchased this truck, the oil had been in a little too long on this ONE and only ONE oil change and because the HEUI system is so sensative to clean oil that I probably was going to have to change some of the components to remedy the idle/flutter problem.

I purchased a new IPR a few months ago and was trying to get enough miles on the oil before I changed it so I could ensure some of the characteristics that changed were not because of "NEW" oil. New oil will always make a Powerstroke run a little better than oil that has 3000 miles on it. I wanted to make sure I installed the IPR with the 3000 mile oil.

The Procedure:

I removed the plug on the top of the high pressure oil reservoir and took my tried and true turkey baster (equipped with a rubber fuel line and then steel brake line attached to the rubber fuel line so I could get through the small hole and go to the bottom of the reservoir to extract ALL the oil), and proceded to extract all the oil out of the reservoir which took some time, but ended up getting a full quart out of it. Draining this HP reservoir really saved a big time mess!!

Next I drained my fuel filter bowl and loosened the lid to ensure all the diesel would be able to drain, then removed my intake "Y", stuffed shop rags in the ports and proceeded to loosen all the hoses and wiring harness associated with the fuel filter housing/IPR. I then removed the two bolts holding the fuel filter housing on the engine and lifted the housing up and out of the valley of the engine.

I then removed the cheap nut holding the IPR solenoid on and slid the solenoid off. I then took a deep socket and slowly removed the IPR.

I then cleaned around where the IPR was with a lint free cloth to ensure the new o-ring wouldn't be damaged by dirt/trash upon seating. I then coated the NEW IPR o-rings etc. with new engine oil and replaced it back into it's respected provision. I then reinstalled the IPR solenoid and tightened the cheap nut ensuring I had the wiring harness connector turned in the correct direction.

I then took carburetor cleaner and sprayed the valley where a little diesel and a small amount of oil had spilled. I cleaned all the valley and then reinstalled everything previously removed.

I then took a small funnel and poured exactly 1 quart of new oil back into the HP oil reservoir and re-installed the plug.

After the engine turned over a few more times than usual it cranked. After warming the engine up, I then proceeded to the highway where I ran locked out of OD for about 5 miles at 3200 rpm's to eliminate all the air from the HP oil system.

After returning home I immediately noticed the idle was more stable and after putting 100 or so miles on since the change, I can definately tell a difference in the performance and idle characteristics of the engine. I used to have what I call a missing cylinder flutter sound and that has for the most part been eliminated so far. The truck also runs somewhat easier going down the highway and the cranking time which was actually normal before, is very very quick now, even on intial startup in the morning. I was surprised by this because the truck actually cranked normally with no long cranking time hot or cold. I'm also interested to see if fuel mileage will fluctuate some and I'll post when and if it does indeed increase.

I wanted to post this information for some of you that are experiencing some of the characteristics my truck has been having. I'm also going to replace the ICP when I find a good price on one, but I do my truck as I do my race car and change ONE thing at a time so I'll know what the part actually did and IF it actually changed anything. Then I can go to the next step and change something else.

Hope this information is beneficial to some of you and don't hesitate to post further discussion on the subject as well.

Take care,

Coach Davis

This helped me a lot when mine failed on a trip from Cincinnati, OH to Charlotte, NC.

LINK TO ANOTHER SET OF INSTRUCTIONS - this one says you need a special wrench for the large stamped nut but mine worked fine without, I used a 3/4" combination wrench. You do not need to disassemble the IPR to do the O rings, just put them on the shaft when you get it out.

I have Coach Davis' instructions and a cut and paste of the thread I started when mine failed, if you would like them sent to you in MS Word format shoot me an eMail at [email protected] with IPR O RING INFORMATION in the subject line and let me know what eMail address you would like me to use - I will reply with the attachment.

Hope this helps you out.

Dave / Believer45
 

2500cummins

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Thanks for the help guys, I sent my brother a link to this thread.
Dave, He will send you an e-mail if he needs more info.

Sorry it took a while to respond, yesterday evening my 14 yo son passed out and hit his head on the table on the way down so I ended up spending the entire night in a Las Vegas emergency room with my 4 yo on my lap :mad:5 minutes with a doctor and then 2 hours waiting, then repeat for 11-1/2 hours :mad: lots of stitches, minor concusion, CT scan, ect, not a good night.

Thanks again,
Jared
 

Believer45

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2500cummins said:
...yesterday evening my 14 yo son passed out and hit his head on the table on the way down so I ended up spending the entire night in a Las Vegas emergency room with my 4 yo on my lap :mad:5 minutes with a doctor and then 2 hours waiting, then repeat for 11-1/2 hours :mad: lots of stitches, minor concusion, CT scan, ect, not a good night.

Jared, these trucks are things and don't matter - how is your son???

Dave / Believer45
 

2500cummins

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He seems ok right now, he still has a headache and a little light headed when standing up a couple times. They don't know why he passed out yesterday, maybe dehydrated a little and stood up too fast? His CT scan and ECG looked normal, he was unresponsive probably close to a minute after the fall but I don't know how much of that was the fainting and how much was the concussion from hitting the table, both hands were numb after the fall but were normal by the time we got to town, almost an hour drive to town so you don't want to mess around much before leaving just in case things are worse than they look. He's 14 years old and nearly 6' tall and fell backwards and hit the kitchen table without ever even trying to catch himself so it was a hard hit. The quick care had him stitched up by 12:15am but wanted a CT before morning so the doc sent us to a hospital emergency room, we didn't leave the ER until 8:30 this morning and only saw the doctor 2 times for a total of less than 15 minutes :mad: 8 hrs total, 20 min. for the CT, 15 min. with the nurse, 15 min with the doc, 10 min. checking out and 7 hrs waiting :backoff

Thanks for asking :)

Jared
 

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