91 7.3 idi low miles, starting issues/ other ?'s

[plywood]

Sounds like you're on track.
If the switching valve was clogged it would start right away after switching back to the front tank.
If it takes a while to get it started again then you may be sucking air when switched to the rear tank, in which case, well the gauges often don't work right either, are you sure the rear has over 1/4 tank of fuel?

 

[A_G]

Sounds like you're on track.
If the switching valve was clogged it would start right away after switching back to the front tank.
If it takes a while to get it started again then you may be sucking air when switched to the rear tank, in which case, well the gauges often don't work right either, are you sure the rear has over 1/4 tank of fuel?

well its the front that reads a quarter tank but runs out, like i said supposedlyu dont really wanna test the issue

the rear read bout an 8th when it ran out. but ive had it emptier than that, and it idling using the lights while i was working.

and it took awhile, i didnt ether it because the engine was warm, but i almost killed the batterys trying to get it to restart. I was at a very busy interection, in the turn lane when it died

 

[A_G]

anybody have a picture of where the harness for the glow plug wiring is at on the egnine.

I may have another issue...

i didnt have time to go out and GP's today so i was just out looking at some stuff and it seems the plug over by the starter solenoi on the pass fender, runs to the GP's, it was dark, the one side of the plug is melted. Plus theres some PO wiring coming off the solenoid to ? thats got a cooked wire aswell....

i just spent the better part of 4 days chasing wiring on a fancy tractor because of some some shotty work....dont want to do it on this.
So anybody got some diagrams, for engine wiring. Thatd be great.

Thanks

Ps im gonna get my multimeter from where im doing this work tmrw, what are the acceptable Ohms for a glow plug, vs voltage going towards. If i do find any voltage

 

[plywood]

Not sure for Bosch GPs on the ohms, but for Motorcraft/Beru GPs, it will depend largely on their temperature.

The GPs get 12v from the battery, but it will go down when they are on and again the voltage will vary depending on what type of GPs and how hot they are.

 

[A_G]

okay im doing a little searching and it indeed seems the connector im talking about does go to the gp controller.

the two yellow wires i saw below the plug are what power it, and they used to run through that plug and sometimes melt the connection, resistance bad connection etc.

Somebody in the past has wired them to the feed going to out to right (or furthest post from grill towards cab) post. and electrical tap was placed right under where this plug is at, probably to join these yellow wires together.

What assuming this is what sends the actual power to the GP controller right? the two 8-10 g yellow wires...
and the plug controls ? this is all right on the inner fender.
Ive also got what looks like a ground wire taped off...

some more yellow wires running around the passenger side battery between the batt and core support, and one is burnt through in through.

so i guess ill break out the test light tmrw and check the wiring relating to thsi plug and ohm the yellow wires through and probably still ending up replacing them.

 

[A_G]

ran out and snapped some pics

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Looks like it already has new Gp's there the only thing shiny under the hood, beside mr burnt copper wire there

 

[plywood]

How many Marlboro bucks did that light cost.

Any plug connector between the power source and the GP solenoid/controller is a common place for problems, the connections just can't seem to handle the load.

I would replace and run new wires straight to the GP s/c, bypassing the plug at the least. I believe they are 10ga with a 14g strip of wire for an inline fuse.

Ultimately it's just two wires doing the work of one bigger one, I don't know off the top of my head what size you'd need to do one wire with one inline fuse link.

 

[A_G]

How many Marlboro bucks did that light cost.

Any plug connector between the power source and the GP solenoid/controller is a common place for problems, the connections just can't seem to handle the load.

I would replace and run new wires straight to the GP s/c, bypassing the plug at the least. I believe they are 10ga with a 14g strip of wire for an inline fuse.

Ultimately it's just two wires doing the work of one bigger one, I don't know off the top of my head what size you'd need to do one wire with one inline fuse link.

malboro miles actually
camel did bucks or w/e

Damn i was wondering if anyone was gonna catch that.
we have 5 of those lights
had a climbing back pack all kinds of crap. bad ass soft side ice chest. etc

i read 4g with a 250amp mega fuse, for now im gonna just rew wire, it assume that burnt copper wire is actuallyh apart of that those two taped one, gonna go look at it agian, but ill pick up some wire tomorow and temporay wire it the stock way with some slip connectors where the plug would normally be

A good chance this is why my WTS light doesnt come on for long, hard start etc. it has no power or very little

 

[A_G]

welp i went and looked it again, pulled the loom out a bit and these are indeed the same wire in diff spots.

and the other wiere is burnt right before the loom (thank god)

so tmrw ill go get some yellow 10G (kinda keep it the right colors, i got some red but not enough) and just re-wire it to the GPC

and if im not mistaken the GPC is on the back of the engine under the "soup bowl"

 

[plywood]

Yep, under the air cleaner housing.

 

[plywood]

Yeah, I haven't smoked for years, but Marlboro Bucks and Camel Miles sure don't sound right.

 

[A_G]

Yeah, I haven't smoked for years, but Marlboro Bucks and Camel Miles sure don't sound right.

yep i remember when mom and dad had gallon zip lock bags full of miles....Holy crap and they counted that out wow

 

[fellro86]

On the running out after 1/4 tank, there is a plastic cone that mounts to the bottom of the pickup tube. It is common for this to break off, then you can't draw fuel after the metal tube is no longer in the fuel, which is generally about 1/4 tank reading. It is also possible the plastic sump broke off after the fuel level was down lower. May be as simple as adding a chunk of hose to replace the sump that fell off. The sender on my old man's 84 never had that plastic sump, just a rubber hose that went to the bottom of the tank. I know no one ever changed it, as he is the original owner, and for the most part I have always been the one to do the work on it. So basically, you need to pull the sender and extend the pipe to the floor of the tank, and it will be fine again. I have been running my 86 this way since I had the sumps fall off on it a few years ago.

 

[A_G]

So i rewired it back to the switch, and like normal the WTS either doesnt come on or only flickers for a second. Now i dont hear the GPC clicking at all.

when i had popped the hood and keyed on the truck orignally the wires that where burned where arcing the gap before.

Key off, only the always hot wire at the GPC has power.
Key on, Always hot has power
White wire has power (power from key switch)
red green stripe terminal has power.
Squiglly second larger pole no power either way.

Bad GPC?

 

[A_G]

Note: i rewired from the starter solenoid the two large yellow wires to the pole on the GPC