7.1L IDI engine

RKOCH

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These sleeves have a lip at the top that must be machined in the block deck like a wet sleeve engine and you do not bore all the way down.
 

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GenLightening

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About $30/ea plus the block machining, might be better than looking for a good block that may end up not being good. And then not having to worry about cavitation ever again.
 

RKOCH

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It is the way to go I will not build one anymore without sleeving all 8 now. Plus in future you now have a sleeved block so if you need to rebuild again you can pop in new sleeves.
 

icanfixall

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The picture of the sleeve is interesting but... That is very hard to install with two step areas for the sleeve to rest on. I agree with the top lip as thats the best way to capture and hold the sleeve in the block. About the sleeve not going farther down in the bore. Thats just sounds wrong but maybe its working. I think it could work but the thought of the piston skirt catching the joint is scary at best. Maybe the bottom of the sleeve doesn't rest on the bored block cylinder too. That way only the top lip holds it in place which in my oppinion is the better way to hold in a sleeve by using the head as the clamping force. I've had 2 sleeves slip because the crappy shop didn't know what they were doing... I don't deal with them or recommend them to anyone. I also tell others I meet with to avoid them for good reasons.
 

GenLightening

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The lower lip wouldn't extend out as far as the bore size ( the pic doesn't show an internal bore), just a step to help support and stabilize it. If done right, that would be all that's needed and nothing done at the top. But having both may be the best if machined correctly.
 

hesutton

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The Melling sleeves (CSL2274HP) are listed on page #5 of their catalog or page #11 of the PDF. They are 4.110 Bore and 6-7/8in long. The 6.9 sleeves are CSL237 (4.000 and 6-7/8in long) if I'm reading the catalog correctly.

CLICK HERE for the catalog. They have installation instructions at the begining of the catalog as well.

Heath
 

david85

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A single step at the top or bottom of the sleave would probably eliminate all but the most extreme sleave failures. Having 2 steps is better, but I think it might not really be needed. Just think of the number of IDI blocks out there that could now be refurbished properly........
 

RKOCH

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The good ones with 2 steps are not actually for an IH but work the best.

Also you don't have to worry about the piston catching because the piston rings do not travel that far down the cylinder.
 

sassyrel

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mine were put in with the step on the bottom, and the head holds them down. no problems. had a sleeve put in a 428 same way--no problems!!!!!
 

seawalkersee

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Like a 351 head (1/2" bolt) to a 302 (7/16" bolt) you can use the same head stud and use the alignment dowells to keep it in line. Just get a washer from ARP to use to distribute the torque and you will be okay.

Chris
 

david85

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The only sleeves I had heard about for th IDI before this thread had no step anywhere and were held in place with some sort of locktite crap. Dave Sponaugle (ford trucks.com moderator) went through three sleeved 7.3L engines before starting the fight for a full refund.
 

seawalkersee

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Also what is so much better about the 7.3 heads?

The formula for your engine is B(2) x S x .7854xnumber of cyls.

Chris
 

david85

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Also what is so much better about the 7.3 heads?

Better valves and better rockers. However, I think the 6.9 castings are less prone to develop hot spots. Combining the two might yield the best results.

I also heard from the machine shop that did the work on my 6.9 that they had a hell of a time finding good cores to rebuild for the 7.3. It was bad enough that they tried to use 6.9 heads only to find that the bold lengths are different. As far as I know those heads are still sitting in their shop. I considered buying them, but ended up getting 6.9 heads else where (mine would have cost too much money and time to rebuild.
 

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