hey guys i just got back to afghanistan and the truck tried to crank and it wont have good batteries and starter wont engage but the buzzer and everything works just starter wont engage....
Measure the voltage at the starter. If you have voltage there and still no cranky, its the starter. If there is no voltage there, crank on the cable to be sure it has a good connection. This is often times the problem with those that have been sitting and exposed to the outside air. If the batt, cables, and selonoid are all good, its the starter.
Are you saying the starter spins but it wont engage the flywheel. If thats the deal then two things could be wrong. The starter ring gear is shot or the starter solenoid is bad. Our engines start and stop on three places because of the odd fireing order. So three places on the ring gear wear out. you can replace just the gear and its a cheap part but. Removing the trans and flywheel is necessary so its a big job. Hope this helps..
Don't forget to check the ground at the battery - also both battery terminal connections. A dirty or bad ground will do what you describe - as also will loose terminal connections.
Once you check the volts if there good. Get a nice rubber malt an smack that stater a few times like you mean it. It will free it up if it's stuck. Had to do this a good few times before new starter
ok guys update it will spin and start the truck if i jump the relay on the inside of the fender....i cleaned all the terminals up and cut to get to new fresh stuff on there....got all new terminals....... im at a toss up and i am about to just install a toggle switch. I am gonna check wires next..
So, are you saying it starts just fine if you jump the solenoid but won't even try to crank if you use the key? If so, perhaps it's an ignition switch issue. Just went through this myself.
Or it's the solenoid itself. You could probably stick a test light from the ignition wire that goes to the solenoid to ground and see if it lights up when you turn the key to start.
If you get a light, it's the solenoid, takes 5 minutes to replace it (at least on a 91).
thats part of why I installed a pushbutton and a light next to it. If the key cylinder craps out I can still easily start ( and this takes the main stress off the cylinder), and if its the solenoid the light will say
The key cylinder has no electric connections, it drives a rod to the base of the steering column, where the actual switch resides. The switches go bad and are cheap, less than $10 usually. Two screws hod them onto the column, it really only takes 5 minutes to change one.
Its not the switch that is the problem... The potmetal actuator that is in the middle of the column will eventually snap and leave you with a key that spins in circles and does nothing is. And for that you have to spend a lot more time... If you ever had one of these break you'll understand. 15 minutes adding a pushbutton + light for the starter is a lot easier than an hour or two replacing the actuator in some parking lot in the dark. Plus if the actuator isnt broken, the key still works like stock.
Turning the key to the on position doesnt strain it nearly as much as start.
A wire with one side having alligator clip and the other a Female spade connector and a pair of needle nose is all you need to start an idi. The wire is for running power to ip. Pliers for jumping the gp and starter relay. Then its just steering lock...
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