6.9 in a '90 F-250?

[alaska120]

Got a steal on a '90 F-250 with a blown 7.3l 5-sp manual.
Got a steal on '84 6.9l auto with 35,000 miles on it (rolled and forgotten).
Question; will that 6.9 fit? From what I gather on this and other sites it isn't much different but I'm worried about electricals, motor mounts, exhaust, flywheel etc.
Thanks...

 

[towcat]

Got a steal on a '90 F-250 with a blown 7.3l 5-sp manual.
Got a steal on '84 6.9l auto with 35,000 miles on it (rolled and forgotten).
Question; will that 6.9 fit? From what I gather on this and other sites it isn't much different but I'm worried about electricals, motor mounts, exhaust, flywheel etc.
Thanks...

welcome to the site!
In short, the motor is a drop-in.
the '90 electrical is more reliable especially the updated GP's.
the motor mounts are no different.
the exhaust is no different.
the flywheel is matched to the trans....got a ZF5 trans? use the ZF5 flywheel and clutch assy.
it's that simple

 

[alaska120]

Thanks for the quick reply.
I was hoping to hear that!
I'm a little unsure on the swap...most of my diesel time was keeping my GMC 6.2 alive and that was not a friendly engine. Glad it's gone.
Is there a way to ID a ZF 5-speed from any other?
J

 

[Shadetreemechanic]

I believe if its a five-speed attached to an idi, then it is a zf-5. There were no others as far as I know.

 

[h2odrx]

If it is a 5 speed it is the ZF5. you will need the 7.3 style glow plugs and drop it in and go!

 

[camo85]

Thanks for the quick reply.
I was hoping to hear that!
I'm a little unsure on the swap...most of my diesel time was keeping my GMC 6.2 alive and that was not a friendly engine. Glad it's gone.
Is there a way to ID a ZF 5-speed from any other?
J

If it's a 5 speed it's a zf5. The only difference in the zf is internally in the gears. I beleve 96 an 97 have a little difernt style gears and sincros, but work the same [just cost more]. And also the older zf has a faster reverse gear [so I am told].

 

[zigg]

I swapped an '87 6.9 into my current '93 that had a blown 7.3. It was essentially a drop in like has been said. The 6.9 came with v-belts and so I had to swap pulleys over to the serp belt setup, and I used the newer electrical system(more reliable) and the original 6.9 was mated to a T-19 4speed standard and I mounted it in front of the E4OD Auto, but not too much involved with that. Yours sounds even easier.
Feel free to e-mail me if you have any questions.
Zigg

 

[alaska120]

Well, I'm going to get started tonight on the project. First will be to pull the 6.9L out and give it a good looking over.
From all the feedback, it seems to be a pretty simple job...
The 5-speed is currently behind the blown 7.3 so it must be the Z model.
I'll update as I go.
Are there parts of the 7.3 I should swap to the 6.9 while they are out?
Sounds like the glow plugs and maybe pulleys...what about the starter, FP, injectors etc?
Thanks for the help!
J

 

[towcat]

Are there parts of the 7.3 I should swap to the 6.9 while they are out?
Sounds like the glow plugs and maybe pulleys...what about the starter, FP, injectors etc?
Thanks for the help!
J

if you scraping out the 7.3, the feul system should be pulled and carefully preserved. Parts are still available for the 7.3 oil cooler assy, so save that or swap over. same with the starter...you now have a spare. alternator too. If you carefully bag and tag the pulleys and brackets that is a good thing. When you flip a belt your motor will have the pulleys for lunch. If you really have the space. strip all the tin and bolts off the old motor, clean and store away. The guys living in the rust belt has reported of oil pans rusting through in the past.
I'm a bad influence;p Those who have seen my shop know why I say that

 

[alaska120]

I'm pretty bad about saving stuff. It never fails...as soon as I pitch it out, I find a need for it.
I will pull all the jewelry and probably the crank as well. Never know when you might need a spare.
J

 

[tractorman86]

pull it, yank the heads while you have it out, inspect and do the head gaskets, replace thermostat, front and main seals and pan gasket while you have it out. trust me you dont want to put a new motor in and have a leak somewhere.

 

[towcat]

pull it, yank the heads while you have it out, inspect and do the head gaskets, replace thermostat, front and main seals and pan gasket while you have it out. trust me you dont want to put a new motor in and have a leak somewhere.

I will differ on that opnion.
Why? There isn't a 6.9 head that doesn't have a crack or two or three in it....
When you undo the torque....even in proper unbolting order, the cracks will crawl even on a servicable head. If the motor has been run and passed the oil cap and the radiator hose test, leave the heads alone. It hasn't caused problems yet and there's no sense on making new ones. If it does have seepage in the back of the motor, it's a coin toss on changing out the gaskets. I'll pack it with Bar's leak and call it good.
thermostat change is nota bad idea though. But get the Ford/IH only product

 

[alaska120]

As much as I would like to do a nice rebuild, my project list is entirely too long and I need a runner like yesterday.
Bottom line (at least for now) is if it ain't broke I ain't fixin' it.
I'm going to marathon this truck together in one night. With beer, of course, and my usual group of 'helpers' (that don't actually help but drink my beer and make jokes about my work).
J

 

[tractorman86]

yea sometimes you do what you gotta do.

 

[zigg]

Bottom line (at least for now) is if it ain't broke I ain't fixin' it.

Yeah, I did this with my old 6.9. Blew a piston. Threw another in there, nothing else, and ran it for almost 3 more years, and sold it with the truck still runnin' (but sucked down almost a quart of oil per 300mi!) fine...

Zigg