5013 replaces a 5027?

[DOE-SST]

Got a rebuilt DB2 today. The tech I talked with said the 5027 is a direct replacement for my 5013. Did a forum search but no info found.


What say ye, O' Masters of the Mechanical.


Am I gonna have problems? or is it a simple remove, swap exterior pieces, and install.


1994 E350 7.3L NA

 

[Diesel JD]

All those DB2 pumps for Ford or IH spec will fit and work without scattering parts. Look at the OFI website if you want to see what is spec'd for what year, it really makes very little difference unless you're using "G" code injectors then you need a factory turbo pump. Some others would say a factory turbo pump is great but should still no be matched with G codes. I don't remember off the top of my head if 5027 and 5013 are either one factory turbo pumps.

 

[icanfixall]

I think those numbers are the turbo pump and one is for the auto tran and the other is for the standard tran..

 

[Agnem]

Those are all just calibration numbers. The pumps are all physically the same.

 

[icanfixall]

Mel is correct...Some of these pumps have a pin in the drivers side of the throttle shafts. I know they are not needed if you have an E4OD trans. If you do then you need that special tps switch rotating fitting. Those are difficult to find too. I rounded up three of them... Just in case parts....

 

[Agnem]

A standard split pin can be used in place of the "ribbed" pin that the pumps sometimes come with.

 

[DOE-SST]

The only physical difference between the old and the new rebuilt pump was that shaft attachment on the driver's side.

The old pump had a cylindrical piece with a flat blade sticking out from the center of it, screwed to the shaft. This blade meshes with an electronic part (TPS?) that is bolted onto the side of the pump and has a 3-pin electrical contact. I removed the two setscrews on the cylindrical piece and installed it onto the new pump.

The new pump had only a 1/16" diameter silver pin, 3/4" long, sticking through the actual driver's side shaft. The pin was serrated, and seemed to be a functioning part of the pump, but I removed it and installed the old cylindrical part in it's place, because it was too long to mesh with the electronic part.

I didn't get any loose parts with the new pump, so I figured this swap was required. MY E350 has an E4OD.

How am I doing so far?

 

[Diesel JD]

Is this going in your van or in your friend's truck you were working on and took the old pump apart? If it's for an E4OD vehicle you best listen to icanfixall he knows those beasts. The TPS signal and tach/RPM inputs are critical to be as perfect as they can be to keep the E4 from ruining itself.

 

[DOE-SST]

This pump is going in my friend's 1994 E350 7.3L IDI, E4OD.

The old pump works when bench tested at 1000rpm, but when mounted on the engine, and being cranked by the starter at approximately 100rpm, it doesn't push any fuel to the injectors. FSS works fine, and the lift pump fills it with plenty of fuel.

I suspected the electronic part (TPS) was critical, so I measured the location of it on the old pump and used that locate it on the new pump. I think my error is at most .030, but this is assuming the old/new pumps have the same exact exterior dimensions.


Did I just screw the pooch?

How to unscrew it?

Am I gonna have to spend $$$ at a dealership?

Will this van even be driveable after I put it together?


Am I gonna get demoted to Noob 3rd Class?

 

[dyoung14]

This pump is going in my friend's 1994 E350 7.3L IDI, E4OD.

The old pump works when bench tested at 1000rpm, but when mounted on the engine, and being cranked by the starter at approximately 100rpm, it doesn't push any fuel to the injectors. FSS works fine, and the lift pump fills it with plenty of fuel.

I suspected the electronic part (TPS) was critical, so I measured the location of it on the old pump and used that locate it on the new pump. I think my error is at most .030, but this is assuming the old/new pumps have the same exact exterior dimensions.


Did I just screw the pooch?

How to unscrew it?

Am I gonna have to spend $$$ at a dealership?

Will this van even be driveable after I put it together?


Am I gonna get demoted to Noob 3rd Class?

The engine should be turning over a minumum of 250-400 RPM

 

[Agnem]

The pin works with the C6, and the tab thing works with the E4OD.

 

[DOE-SST]

The engine should be turning over a minumum of 250-400 RPM

Hmmmmmm,

This can of worms just keeps getting bigger and bigger.

I eyeballed the front of the IP shaft while cranking the engine. Had two good batteries with a 12v charger set on boost. I'm pretty confidant it was very close to 100rpm. I'll put an optical tach on it when I get the pump installed.

Perhaps low rpm was the reason the old pump wouldn't push fuel? Using a cordless drill, at approx 1000rpm, the pump squirted fuel from the injector fittings just fine on my homemade bench test.

 

[icanfixall]

The tps switch needs to be putting out between .96 and 1.2 volts at the idle setting.. Motor off. Just turn the ignition switch to the on position but don't start the motor. Now use a digital voltmeter on the center green wire to the tps. Adjust it for the above settings. The lower the voltage (.96) the softer the shifts. Higher voltage makes for a harder shift but... Don't let the wide open voltage reach 5 volts. That gags the trand cpu and puts it in the limp home mode... Only second and reverse with neck breaking shifts... Not good on the trans at all...