1993 F250 stumbling and cuttin out

[RanchIDI]

Howdy I have a 1993 F250 idi with 183000 miles on it. I have replaced the fuel filter (wix 33417), the fuel pump (from oreillys), return line and caps from international and bypassed a leaking tank switch valve using 1/4" Goodyear 30R7 line. It is currently directly lined to the rear tank. The truck starts fine hot or cold, it can sit for a week and crank right up. It can idle all day long or hold 1000 rpms all day long. Just lightly cruising around the ranch it runs good but the second I get her up to highway speed (55-65) it begins to stumble, cut out and loose power. The throttle is still responsive in that it does do something just not much. this only happens around 1800-2500 rpms. Im stumped, maybe a bad fuel pick up in the tank? I do live on a dirt road maybe something rattled off. I have bled the filter housing and each injector. It is almost as if it is getting out of time on its own. Maybe a governor prob.
Any help is much appreciated. Thank you.

 

[franklin2]

Rig up a fuel pressure gauge to the filter housing. You can take the guts out of the shrader valve and slip a hose onto that with a hose clamp. Then run it out the back of the hood and use duct tape and tape it to the windshield. Then take it for a test run and see what the fuel pressure is doing. You have to start somewhere, this would be a easy way to find out if it's a fuel delivery problem.

 

[RanchIDI]

Rig up a fuel pressure gauge to the filter housing. You can take the guts out of the shrader valve and slip a hose onto that with a hose clamp. Then run it out the back of the hood and use duct tape and tape it to the windshield. Then take it for a test run and see what the fuel pressure is doing. You have to start somewhere, this would be a easy way to find out if it's a fuel delivery problem.

I may have found the problem. since the cutting out has become much more severe even if i bleed the entire system it will return within 2 minutes, i figure it is close to the IP. think i have found the prob. bubbles and fuel are coming from the heater connector up on the filter housing. Anyone know if this spot leaking could cause such a big air intrusion problem? Filter is half full when i remove it after this stumbling event.

 

[dgr]

Since your filter is only half full, you know it is a fuel delivery problem. I would check all the stuff you did already to make sure you haven't created a place for the fuel pump to suck air. When you say, "directly lined to the rear tank," do you mean you have one piece of hose from the tank to the fuel pump? Or are you still using the hard lines? If you are using the hard lines, putting a loop of clear tubing at the fuel pump inlet will tell you if you are sucking air into the fuel pump.

 

[icanfixall]

My bet or guess is that short piece of rubber hose from the steel line to the mechanical lift pup. The lift pump is found under the vacuum pump on the passenger side front of the engine. Just replace that hose and problem usually fixed. Because this flexiable hose is before the lift pump it sucks in air at that point causing all kinds of issues. That filter head heater fitting can be removed and JB Weld is a good repair. We do not need a fuel heater and many have done away with them all togehter. Nobody has ever been able to determine how long these heaters are on or what the original design was. Use some brakeclean to get the aluminum really clean before you plug the hole. Even a good RTV will work plugging the hole. Just let it cure well before using it again.