Another issue I'm having is with the downpipe elbow. I order their wastegate delete flange and downpipe but the flange doesn't appear to be sealing correctly on my turbo housing. Anyone got a recommendation for this? I am unsure if soot would seal it up if I just run it like this.
I tried it again with everything loose and I was able to get them started after reclocking the turbo and moving the upper around unit it lined up. I think when I took it off at the first attempt is loosened up the flange that mounts the the header and it had a lot more adjustment now.
I'm trying to install the CDD uppipe for an ars 093 turbo but I've run into and issue. It's bolted to the exhaust header but the flange to the turbo is twisted so it won't line up.
I've tried loosing the nuts on the header but it can't mount any other way than flat with the backing plate fits...
I did finally get it to work. Sand off a large section (the full circumference) on the #1 line close to the injector to bare metal, clean it with isopropyl alcohol, clean the clamp with isopropyl alcohol. Tighten it down onto the line not crazy tight. From here I got it to work just by playing...
It's been a bit since I was on this thread since then I've replaced the orings 4 more times on the driver side, but #2 and #8 are still leaking. I'm going to change them to the straight version of cap, and place a copper washer on top. If this doesn't work I have square o-rings in the mail from...
Thanks for all the information guys, I think I will try out the washer on top of the cap since that seems to be some of the problem. Interestingly the leak has mostly self healed, and only leaks a little bit during the first 20 mins of use everyday after that it "heals" itself and stops. I...
Kind of, it still often does the 9900 rpm thing. I just sanded the line, hit it with some cleaner, then cleaned the piezo clamp. Tighten it down evenly with the little thumb nuts on the clamp. Ground to the injection line close to the clamp and make sure it's clean. I might try out a o-ring...
I've been battling this issue for the past 3 weeks on my truck, its always a major pain every time I do the return caps on this thing. But the caps for #2 & #8 won't seal up for more than a day no matter what I do. I am using number 111 Viton "o" rings, and have tried two different brands of...
I decided to just replace the gaskets and did the orings at the same time. Everything is good so far with no leaks. I do have a somewhat unrelated question. What could cause my oil dipstick to read incorrectly? I put in 11 quarts of oil (using FL1995 filter) and it says I'm still 2qt low. Could...
Hey guys I just got done doing a reseal on my 7.3 idi, but after putting the engine back in the truck I noticed a weird oil leak. It's coming from the oil cooler rear head on one of the bolts. Here is a photo, I did confirm it's from that bolt only and both from above it or the oil filter.
Why...
Alright I looked at the sleeve and it has discoloration but there is not a groove I can feel. It also appears to be roughly.030" inches thick. This engine was rebuilt by a shop ~10k miles ago. You think this is the thick one it looks like yours? It's definitely thicker than the speedy sleeve...
I've got to replace the rear main seal while my motor is out of the truck. It has an international 1816559 seal and a sleeve already on the crank.
1) Would a seal like this work with the sleeve already installed? https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1837372&cc=1124468&pt=5604
2) If not...
I got a question, I'm using the Gunson Adapter but the timing light I have reads between 3000-10000 RPM when the engine is at 2000k. If I giggle the pulse adapter clamps just right it will read correctly for a second. Is there a better way to get the pulse adapter clamp attached to the injector...
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