I have an early 2004 f250 4x4 I put a 3in leveling kit on and put an adjustable track bar in but the axle is off center and pushed to the passenger side causing the driver side of the leaf spring to hit on the sway back end link. I can’t get the track bar to adjust anymore. Anyone ran into this...
2004 f250 6.0 it’s having an issue with heat it’s got heat until you let off the throttle. But even at 190 or 200 degrees it’s not the warmest heat I’ve checked the heater core it gets hot the blend door works and the heater valve on the hose works. It’s got a new thermostat as well. I was...
yep they are hot so we decided to turn the valve off on the coolant filter then all of the sudden heat started working… I’m a little confused on what the coolant filter being makes the heat work maybe an air bubble?
Hey guys my 2004 the heat worked great when I got it the I did the oil cooler and deleted the egr cooler. But now has no heat at all the valve works I can get some heat when driver but not enough to really even notice. I was thinking maybe the heater core got plugged or has an air bubble?
It’s got 270xxx on it right now the idle feels like it getting better it’s almost like it’s kinda surging now still has the long crank before it fires.
Fuel pressure at idle is 60 psi and no on fuel regulator and never cleaned the screen checked the injectors everyone has good oil coming out and when disconnected they 1 didn’t change the idle so we replaced it and it doesn’t have the miss but still idles ruff and still has the long start
nope the miss stays until about 1000 rpm then goes away and has no smoke. But at idle it smoke a whiteish blue color but get less when the truck warms up to almost nothing.
I have a 1997 and it’s running rough almost seems like a miss fire has a little smoke when idling it goes away when you start driving it with no smoke icp changed and cps changed they did a buzz test on the injectors and said they where good. No codes so I’m kinda confused on what to look for now.
I’ve been searching and reading for days on this subject but I figured I would ask here to get clarification. How much boost can these motors hold? I have a 1994 turbo in mine with 500 miles on the rebuild. It does have arp head studs but what I’m after is at what boost is the bottom end going...
I have a fuel leak at one of the return lines on my 7.3 idi turbo. But is there any real benefit to the fuel rail from r&d compared to the regular return line set up?
Update so I pulled back out my light tester so I have power at the battery but when the positive cable spilts to the starter fender mounted solenoid I barley have power.... So I put a 12v jumper to the solenoid and I have power and everything turns on. So my guess would be the cable running to...
I don’t see any fuse blocks under the hood I’ve checked the fuses in the cab. But it just got power to where the door ding was going off but once you turn the key the power goes back out. I’m not good with electrical systems so I’m confused
I have an 1987 that has a factory 94 7.3 idi turbo in it and a zf5 speed trans. I went to go start it this morning and turned the key on and I had power but when I pressed the glow plug button it lost all power I’ve checked the fuses
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