Three sensors you might want to check or replace first. Throttle position (on side of IP), tach sensor (in front of IP), and the Vehicle speed sensor on the rear diff. Bouncing rpms (assuming actual rpms and not just your tach needle) could be torque converter unlocking. If you are anything...
I would love to have a car hauler / flat bed trailer. Blows my mind when people have them but brakes don't work, crappy tires... they are such a nice tool to have I would spend a little time and fix it up. The brakes on your buddy's trailer are probably stuck - rusted up from lack of use. It...
I think what you should be concerned about is being 'near timed' vs 180 out... no? To me it should be easy... one flash from your timing light (while cranking) and if you see the reference mark that is close enough to run. Probably a bigger issue / concern is if you have enough pressure for...
I am guessing from your pic that your axle is a KP D60... relatively easy to do the inner seals. Now if you had a TTB then it would be a lot more work!
Nice build and write-up! Only comment I have is that those will suck for ground clearance off-road. I assume that is not your priority though. Did you consider other designs that would be better for this?
Okay I am half in the bag by a campfire and on my cell phone I don't know if this post will work. I'm not sure who you are trying to convince but change the tank.Back to the guitar.
And is safe to search for this leak using a match! -Flame Thr
Why in hell manufactures :idiot: insist on bending the seam UP is beyond me. I just changed my rear tank... same damn thing.
"that one part" is not going to last long. Pull the box and replace! Good excuse to drink some beers (buddies help lift the box off first). Hint: brand new driveway is a nice flat surface to work on, no gravel in your back :rotflmao
I believe they will fit Moog. Worst case it might be a little long or short, but the boot side should be fine. You can get the boot off without wrecking it - use a utility knife as a wedge to tap between the boot and the TRE to start separating it. Will pop right off.
With that amount of rust I would recommend changing the tank; at least you get to decide when to do it - and you won't have to worry about patching asphalt!
Get some buddies lined up, case of good beer, an 18 mm socket, and lift the box off. New tank is probably $100 or so.
My tank had a...
"Real trucks don't have spark plugs... or auto-locking hubs." - Me :rotflmao
Add to that list... Real trucks do not have:
- carpet
- power mirrors
- smooth ride
- aluminum rims
- 4 wire trailer connector
- FM radio
- chrome bumpers
- remote starter
- power seat
- 4X4 stickers...
I would recommend installing manual locks. I couldn't find much info on parts for the autos.
Edit: I found some comments on other websites, guys complaining about the auto lockers failing, specifically the cam ring. Apparently Ford used to sell a repair kit but no more. For the cost and...
The OX locker is selectable, I certainly would not run a locked front on-road! The OP mentioned running chains and cement blocks so vibrations and other driving peculiarities are expected :D I would rebuild the rear LS. If that is not enough, chain the FRONT wheels. If that is not enough...
I would love to put an Ox Locker in the front of my truck (my truck has the LS rear). This is a cable actuated locker (manual) which I like. I think they also have an electric option but I like the heavy duty cable. With the amount of weight on the front of your truck, what about adding a...
This is my recommendation for you guys about to install them. Please note that I am not an automotive engineer so it is up to you to decide if your install is safe or not.
This is not a crush washer! After removing the TRE and removing the grease boot, do a 'dry fit' of the DELRIN spacer...
It is my pleasure to contribute something unique to the OB community. For those who get a CURE please add a quick post here when you install them... others can benefit from your installation comments and I certainly appreciate the feedback.
IDIoit I think you will have 17 of them.
I can see the output spline (at pittman) moving side to side. I would like to replace that bushing or bearing and put a new seal in... everything else looks good, steering wheel is tight to the input shaft on the SB.
I have play in my sector shaft and need to replace or rebuild it. I have considered ordering a Redhead but with currency exchange that will cost over $500... I have replaced seals before and am not concerned about being capable of doing this but do these things have needle bearings or a bushing...
Any decent hydraulic shop will have it! That is a metric fitting, I forget the specs but I know I posted the size in my pop tester build thread. This is an off the shelf part. Take an injector into your local shop and ask for a fitting, tell them it is a metric - they should recognize it...
So HPR is a Soylent Green for our trucks??? :rotflmao
The good thing about testing and promoting alternative products (fuel sources, electrical power...) is that it promotes research and development. The R&D will hopefully result in 'more renewable' resources. Similar to solar panels and...
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