I see. As a last resort option, run the charge line from your manifold gauge outside and just barely crack the valve.
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Could you link the bottle you speak of? It's not the bottle the refrigerant comes in? And not the internal tank for the machine is it?
Also are you saying use the vacuum pump to draw it out and pump it into said tank?
Is this truck in a junkyard? Maybe on a trailer?
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Okay, it's the adapter plate. I couldn't remember which piece made the difference.
Are you sure it doesn't already have injectors done? You mentioned turbo and a adrenaline hpop, most people won't go to that hpop unless they are running larger injectors. What turbo is on it?
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You can swap the injectors from the old engine, then run the old pcm/idm.
I can't recall exactly, but I believe the SD manual trans had a longer input shaft.
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Have a old fridge/freezer compressor laying around? You could rig one of those to pump it into a canister. It's really a pain trying to save it, without a recovery machine.
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Several common areas: cruise control cutout switch on the brake master, the buttons on the wheel, and iirc a bulb out can possibly cause it.
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I have always pressure washed engines. Rarely just a hose. I've used quite a few different cleaners. Currently my favorites are simple green and super clean.
At work I use the fancy heated one. With that one I'll turn the pressure down while around electrical connectors.
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Being a 89, I'm sure it's changed hands several times.
Imo, that's just a chance you have to take with these engines.
Po's word means nothing. Only rear way to know is to have it checked.
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I'm trying to remember if turning the interior lights on via twisting the switch turns on the cargo light or not. I believe opening the door does.
Think of a diode as a check valve.
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Don't necessarily "need" it. Do you have a separate switch for the cargo light? Iirc some did, some didn't. Likely just keeping the dome light from coming on if you turn on the cargo light. Or Visa versus.
Test it and see.
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