You were right, there was another sleeve on there and a pretty good groove in it. Chiseled it, maybe got one little ding in the crank . And I put red loctite on the new one like you suggested.
Just a question about this rear seal though. Should it be flush with the crank? I installed the rear...
R&D turbo cam is degree’d in.
Justin’s cheat sheet specifies intake centerline as 112* +/- 2*
Picked up a used JEGS degree kit from someone local and it worked okay. I ended up tack welding some roundstock in the old lifter I’m throwing out anyway to get a solid measurement. Turned it over a...
Here is a better picture.
And good call, I think you’re right about it being the driver for this ring. I just checked and the holes line up with the flywheel holes. Glad there is someone here who worked on these for a living.
So is it worth while to press this thing onto the back of the crank...
Pressed the seals into the front and rear covers just now. Wasn’t sure if I was supposed to use permatex no.3 or ford grey RTV. I used permatex.
Also, there’s this metal inner ring that comes out in the rear main seal, anyone know what that is? Do I leave that on there?
Got these seals from...
Good point lol, yes it’s 6x4.
Also I’ve been following his channel, it’s great. Sad he never got to fire it up though. Prob watched some of his vids like 5 or 6 times already lol
STD pistons anyone? I have the original ones I pulled out as well as a set of Mahle 3512HA pistons with some blemishes from shipping. I ended up getting a replacement set.
The Mahle 3512HA pistons are also .010 reduced compression. These are ideal if you have your block decked. My machinist...
What’s up Oil Burners?
So a little background on my truck and this project… I bought this truck off a co-worker in Jan ‘23. It’s a ‘93 F350 7.3 IDIT, 4x2 manual trans. Body was super clean and so was the frame… but the rest of it was in a bad shape.
The truck wouldn’t start when I bought it...
Yeah I’ll definitely report back when I get them. I’m actually getting my block and heads back from the machine shop on Monday so I was prob gonna do a build thread on my truck.
But I think they’re worth it if they’re quality and US made like they advertise. Otherwise I was going to disassemble...
Not sure how people feel about them, but I ordered a set of Johnson Hylift (US made) lifters here for my rebuild. Just the normal set, not the expensive slow leak down ones
https://www.powerhouse-diesel.com/products/6-0l-6-4l-7-3l-ford-powerstroke-hydraulic-lifter-set
Yup lesson learned. I’m not perfect, but I’d rather myself make the mistake than someone else. It’s just cheaper that way and I learn something from it.
I should’ve just let them sleeve the block and clean everything but they offered to put the bottom end together with all new bearings for a...
So my IDIT motor has been at the Machine shop for about 6 months. Now the guy has finally gotten around to putting the bottom end together after sleeving all 8 cylinders. He let me know that the new Mahle Pistons I gave him to use all have damage in the same area around the oil ring and that he...
Random question, since I watched your video on timing the truck, are you selling that timing kit as well???
Working on a build right now and looking for one. And I’m prob not too far, bordering PA on NJ side.
Also, with how much youve spent on performance parts etc… why not swap your motor...
Damn you guys are scaring me. I gotta put my trans and engine back in when I get my engine back from Machine shop.
I’m wondering if it would be easier to marry them together outside of the truck and drop them in together.
I pulled the engine out on the 1 ton setting, so weight wise I should be...
So I got a stage 1 drop in turbo from R&D, and I got the install kit from Russ. I didn’t see a gasket for the turbo elbow though. I sent my factory turbo to Justin with the elbow on it, so I didn’t take it apart to see if there was a gasket there.
Do you have to seal these two surfaces with any...
I’d say pull the motor so you can work like a gentleman.
And if you do pull it out it’s probably due for a reseal at a minimum.
I personally don’t like fixing something different every week, so if you got the time and some money it’s prob worth going thru everything
You are right. I just assumed it was the OE flywheel on the truck, but then again it's 30 yrs old. It's a solid mass flywheel and the clutch I pulled off said 'South Bend' on it lol. Still needs to be replaced, its down to the rivets and no friction material left hardly.
I didn't realize the OE...
Anyone know of a clutch kit that will be okay for 300hp and will work with the OE flywheel on my 93 IDIT? I had the flywheel resurfaced but after checking with Southbend they say there clutch won't work on the OE flywheel.
I only have a mig welder, I have no problem making custom brackets for the inter cooler.
I definitely won’t be able to weld anything with the intake since it’s all cast aluminum. I’ve tried mig welding cast aluminum before with ER5356 and that didn’t go so well.
So I’m working on a build right now, and originally I was going to put off inter cooling since the cost seemed pretty high. I saw CDD has a kit for like $1500. But I think I’ll have better peace of mind if I just do it. I’m going to be head studding, upgrading turbo, and upgrading IP to 90 or...
Does the problem go away when you switch tanks? I Ha a similar issue, the inside of my rear tank had filled up with rust, shower head was broken, lines were clogged with rust.
When I pulled the fuel filter out and drained it, the amount of rust that came out was disgusting.
I ended up just...
Pulled motor to reseal everything since it’s leaking from everywhere.
After I took the heads off I noticed when I turn the engine over manually, cylinder #8 would leave moisture on the cylinder walls. I’d wipe it, cycle again and same thing. Motor is at 250k mi
I’m hoping that it’s just some...
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