Dead 7.3 IDI Diagnosis

Jesus Freak said:

Turn the key to the on position, then go to the engine and unplug the connector on top of the injector pump and plug it in a couple times and listen for the click of the solinoid to make sure its turning on and off.

Then, take a screw driver or players and jump the starter solinoid on the firewall while really wiggling the battery cables close to the battery terminal and see if it doesn't start spinning like 2 batteries instead of just one battery...... proceed with caution, wear a helmet, googles, knee pads, athletic support, and steel toed boots..... make sure your grounded as well.

You got this, but ill give it an 87.5% certainty that its a bad battery cable..... your engine is spinning fine, but it takes a BUNCH OF UMPH to spin 21.5/1 compression fast!

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ihc1470 said:

12.4 volts is a battery that is around 50% charged. 12.7-12.8 is full charge. First place I would start is getting the batteries charged back up. If you still have issues at that point since it appears you have a volt meter I would do some voltage drop test on cables and connections. How old are the batteries? Maybe take them someplace and have them load tested. One other way to test battery connections is to turn on a few loads for a couple of minutes and then start touching cables if you find heat you have found an issue.

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