1989 F-250 7.3 Project

hacked89 said:

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First time fueling under its own power

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It's kinda like your kids eating solid food for the first time. Might use a bib for a while. Did it spill a bunch?

Your truck is no longer "hacked", it's @operable89.

Jesus Freak said:

It's kinda like your kids eating solid food for the first time. Might use a bib for a while. Did it spill a bunch?

Your truck is no longer "hacked", it's @operable89.

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Not gonna jinx it but it actually isn’t dropping a drip from anywhere. Yes, it has fluids in it

There’s little things that I have to see whether it will clear up or not from sitting like the inner axle seals on the D60.

For “fun stuff” - the experimental pump is back with CDD and it’s going to go on the dyno with a 130cc R&D pump.

The stock clutch is going to love that.

hacked89 said:

First time fueling under its own power

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Aaaand now the pain begins...

IDIBRONCO said:

Aaaand now the pain begins...

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It really is the way to find out what's REALLY wrong with it. It's like act 2 of the movie, the plot is set up, now let's see what happens!

Yes I did a crappy edit job because I couldn't find what I wanted

chillman88 said:

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Yes I did a crappy edit job because I couldn't find what I wanted

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Maybe "useless this thread is, ummm burn out videos you have not" fear.....ummm fear you have, fear of gaskets leaking, ummm fear of axles breaking, fear of univeursal joints snapping, ummm use the acceleration hacked!" Fear not your universal joints, Jesus Freak is wise upon this subject now hum hum ummm!"
"Moog 331, it is....."

After two days of driving it the first “feature” presented itself.

I’ve had it from 0-50mph perfectly smooth. No vibration. Coming up a hill about an hour ago I was at 35-40mph under load like 6psi boost and I hit this string of ruts that caused death rattle. It didn’t stop until I almost brought it down to a stop. If you ever experienced it, it’s violent. Makes you hope everything stays together in one piece.

Here’s what I’m thinking:
This truck is a road driver and worker, not an off roader. I want to take it all over the country.

It’s a ball joint D60 front sterling 10.25 rear.
The truck probably has 4” suspension lift in the front via leafs and it’s on blocks in the rear. I can order factory front leaf springs, remove the blocks in the rear and that should take it down to factory height. I can rebuild the front axle, tie rod ends, ball joints, do ujoints and seals while I’m messing with it, check the track bar ends. Remove the drop steering arm and replace with factory. Then replace the wheels and tires with 33” all terrains that are street focused.

This has been on my mind but I didn’t have a reason to do it. Because everything worked fine. If you know me, I like working on cars and trucks more than driving them so I have to stop myself from taking things completely apart and improving and tinkering for fun. This was one of those things I was stopping myself.

Maybe even a tad smaller tire

Don't bother. We have leaf springs, so tighten stuff up. Or you can do what i did, that is air down. Around here we have some dirt roads, so I went 35 psi front and 50 rear. That really works. When I pull the dump trailer I'll go up in pressure.

Also I'm running 235 skinnys.

quickster said:

Also I'm running 235 skinnys.

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Yes on the leaf springs and I’m going to tighten everything up from my plan but my thought is if this is going to see a lot of road mileage and it currently has DW might as well go to stockish tire size and adjust the geometry.

The 37s I have on it now are my bronco trail rig wheels and tires because I didn’t feel like buying new wheels and tires at the time. Bronco is under rebuild in the diesel conversion section, and these brand new 37s were just sitting. Now it seems like it would make sense to spend the future plans sooner.

I have 315/75r16 with f-super springs front/rear and 4in blocks in the rear. The general grabber a/tx tire I have give a good ride on the high way and minmal road noise. The only time I ever had the death wobble was when my track bar came loose. Also outer tie rods should be adjusted so the drag links cant twist around, basically twist them to opposit max travel. What the tie rods really need is some these but have not seen anyone that sells them for ours.


The other option I found was this but I say is a bit much, when clocking stock works. These are just to fix a dead spot and not sure if will also cause the wobble.


I cant say how much lift I have so here is a pick for refernce.

Im going to put the suspension back to stock and refresh the front axle.

Taking it in one large stage and then a smaller consideration.

Stage 1:
The rear leafs look like factory f250 with a block added. I’m going to remove the block and drop it down and put new factory shocks.

For the front I’m going to swap the leafs to factory f350, new factory shocks, new ball joints, pull the carrier and new inner axle seals and ujoints on the shafts. New tie rod ends as needed.

Take my trail rig 37s off and replace with factory size wheel and tires.

Stage 2:
Once I get done with that. Was looking at my f350 and it has front and rear sway bars and steering stabilizer. Now I don’t think I need to touch the rear but I might consider the front sway bar back and steering stabilizer.

At this point, the truck may be reverse squatted when I’m done with stage 1. I see on my dually that both the factory bump stop block and and the spring pack is much larger.

IDIBRONCO said:

Aaaand now the pain begins...

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just had to buy the d60 ball joint press, spindle puller, inner axle seal installer.. good thing I’ve synchronized all my front ends to d60s

hacked89 said:

Im going to put the suspension back to stock and refresh the front axle.

Taking it in one large stage and then a smaller consideration.

Stage 1:
The rear leafs look like factory f250 with a block added. I’m going to remove the block and drop it down and put new factory shocks.

For the front I’m going to swap the leafs to factory f350, new factory shocks, new ball joints, pull the carrier and new inner axle seals and ujoints on the shafts. New tie rod ends as needed.

Take my trail rig 37s off and replace with factory size wheel and tires.

Stage 2:
Once I get done with that. Was looking at my f350 and it has front and rear sway bars and steering stabilizer. Now I don’t think I need to touch the rear but I might consider the front sway bar back and steering stabilizer.

At this point, the truck may be reverse squatted when I’m done with stage 1. I see on my dually that both the factory bump stop block and and the spring pack is much larger.

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I think the 250 and 350 single use the same main rear spring stack. The difference in 4x4 250 vs 350, would be a 2in vs 4in block. It looks like you have both a 2 and 4 in block, so just run the 4in and you should be fine with stance. Another difference between the 250 and 350, is the 350 gets over loads for added capacity. These are over loads on top of my springs for reference, have yet to put the brackets on the frame for them. Yes this f-super spring stack is massive.