Like I said the VERY VERY best deals are at International, 31's 925cca Exides. I didn't know they were on sale again guess I'm off Sat. to buy more. If you need to mod the tray its still the best deal.
Just a note: I talked to the parts rep. they buy direct from Exide, an entire production run...
Just order Kats 11605 for $12.00 delivered from eBay. 600 watt version I checked there web site to confirm direct replacement. They make both 600 and 1000. They have lots.
I do not plan to use it but have a leaker now and have had one blow out in the past so I just change them every on every...
Mid 85 engines have a 85 cast on the heads and block. Large can't miss it. But really there all good, most the crack issues are long gone and those blocks retired. 1983 being the exception do to parts interchange.
I'd say 1984 up are ALL great, I'm reringing/studding a 1984 even though I have...
Bull nose trucks take 31's without any mods! Both mine have 31's from Motor Trucks (International) in them, made by Exide (not my favorite) but they said they are the best and say they use them in ALL!!! trucks. They said there made at a different plant and will start any truck LD, MD, or HD in...
Orielly's Zerostart, check different numbers 3100043 oem 1000 watt, 3100045 smaller 600watt, 3100042 smaller yet 400 watt. All these confirmed fit!!!! Price goes down to $25.00ish on one.
I use the 400 watt one but the 600 watt is cheaper.
If you have a pre 85 block and INSIST on using the...
TACK weld around the spot that broke then go to the mount that bolts to the main cap, check it, more than likely cracked too, under or around the nut. Tack it too then remove it and weld pump point first, then main cap spot.
I run a few extra weld lines around to strengthen all those points...
Well Since this is the EXACT!! thing I've seen so many times, I always weld them up now! I think they change the metal type on 7.3's after 92 as there aren't as many broken.
Option 1 : weld it up
Option 2 : junk yard 7.3 from 92-94 or any year really
Option 3 : I may just have one, from a 92...
been using it for few years, every tank and in all my farm equip. Never had a failed pump or injectors yet!!! Everything is super high hours and miles. 329,000, 289,000, and 319,000 on 1994 7.3 idi turbo pumps that have never been apart still sealed factory screws.
Will say it FIXED a 1984 6.9...
D60 front sway bar bolt right on any F250, bolt holes "Should" be there mine were. D60 sway bars are mount to the rear behind the axle, gasser F250 are too the front, "Some" F250 non a/c short wide radiator Diesel models had front sway bars too, only with short core support.
Rears are all the same
Cheap parts!!! all made off shore, had to replace my 1984 Mustang SVO one every year like clock work, (parked it for this reason) No real parts avail. anymore. try to find a good used one some place, at least F series are easy. Oem replacement Ford ones were made in Mexico too last i checked
You be fine, used is used so I'd bolt it all in and run it. Injectors are all close enough to make it run. Pump will MAYBE put out a little more but they all run if working at all. 7.3 return line is different but just swap your 6.9 stuff over, and charge batteries!!!!
It will work fine, the TPS!!! is not really but its for the E4od on the 7.3, your other pump doesn't have it so I'm assuming its a 4 speed. Bolt on and go!
Chimcom is crapola! Bought a rig with 7.3 that dropped a valve and blew both head gaskets along with cracked heads with one them Chimcoms just put in it. Funny it never overheated before or after the Chimcom install but died an awful death! Before it just ran to cold and no heat, after Temp...
End of the year bonus check coming soon (Not very much at all) and have all these IP sitting around. I want to have one rebuilt so I don't have to worry about it, or in case I need it.
I have a new pump on my engine now and all my other IDI's are multi mile OEM units. Will be running BB codes...
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