TTB to Dana 60

BlueHound

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So I’ve got a 1991 f-250 4X4 with an IDI and an AOD 4-speed. I’ve been looking to swap the old Twin traction beam(twin I beam) out for a Dana 60 out of an f-350. I don’t think I would need a trac bar because I have leaf springs to keep my axle centered. But out side of that what do I need?
 

towcat

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unless you like deathwobble, you NEED the trac bar and mounts.
everything you need is detailed in the pics.

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Dieselcrawler

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you will need what towcat posted above. i am currently doing the swap on my 88. yeaterday i got the TTB out and the d60 under it in about an hour. tonight i will be tightened all the spring bolts with the weight on them, then prepping to mount the track bar bracket. then jack it back up and get the steering and brakes hooked up.


you will also need the 4 inch blocks for the rear if you want to keep a little rake to it. mine sits perfectly level with the f250 blocks and d60 front. which i dont like. i will be instaling my blocks later this week.
 

franklin2

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Your transmission is a
So I’ve got a 1991 f-250 4X4 with an IDI and an AOD 4-speed. I’ve been looking to swap the old Twin traction beam(twin I beam) out for a Dana 60 out of an f-350. I don’t think I would need a trac bar because I have leaf springs to keep my axle centered. But out side of that what do I need?

Your transmission is a E4OD, not a AOD. Just to let you know.
 

Dieselcrawler

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Here is why you need the pitman arm, I just swapped mine today. Longer one is d60. They are 1/2-5/8 different in length.
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Pork_Chop50

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I will concur with the trac bar. I did a RSK on my F350 and didn't immediately install the new adjustable trac bar and it drove terribly. Lots of wander, so I would say don't count on your springs keeping it all in place perfectly. I would suggest looking at PMF and also Sky Off-Road for the parts you don't have, or some little upgrades along the way.
 

riotwarrior

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Older Ford hiboys had a steering system different than ours...the box movement was for amd aft amd drag link was from pitman arm to drivers knuckle....

Now our boxes move left to riflght...this allows a concurrent movement to take place when steering and havi g a significant impact on death wobble...

So when we turn one directiin it tends to force springs and axle opposite direction....this is why we have death wobble comoared to older trucks....

Yes u need track bar
 

HS108

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I will concur with the trac bar. I did a RSK on my F350 and didn't immediately install the new adjustable trac bar and it drove terribly. Lots of wander, so I would say don't count on your springs keeping it all in place perfectly. I would suggest looking at PMF and also Sky Off-Road for the parts you don't have, or some little upgrades along the way.

You didn’t happen to do a write up on your pmf rsk install did ya?

Would you recommend PMF and what code superduty springs you running? Along with tire size?

Slow building a d60 swap for my 250


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Dieselcrawler

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D60 swapped in the front with f350 springs, rear still stock f250. Sits about level. Rear swap with 4 inch blocks in progress now.
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Pork_Chop50

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I followed this thread over on FTE to get me started. I am using U code SD springs (4800# rating). I have 285/75r16 Toyo AT 2's. It was an easy install, I did it over a weekend while I also installed Dynatrac balljoints, replaced all the steering linkage, and rebuilt wheel bearings. I would recommend PMF as they have the shortest advertised RSK, but there is also Sky Off-Road. While I did not do a write up, here are a few pointers I learned while doing it.

If you are swapping springs also, disconnect the trac bar first before anything else. Once you start undoing the suspension my trac bar cocked my axle and it took awhile for me to figure out what the issue was. I had a cable come along at one point trying to move it back.

Brake calipers, shocks, and your axle breather tube are going to be a horrific pain. Remove and secure out of the way all of these as best as you can, you will not enjoy working against them.

The spring u-bolts do not require as much torque as Chilton suggests, I think I went with 120 or 150 ft/lbs. I can confirm later. On the torque note, if you have a sway bar some of those small bolts holding it together are nearly welded on. Use a 1/2" ratchet and patience, because they are super tight.

It was mentioned by @NJGearhead666 and I will back the claim of poly bushings. I replaced every rubber bushing in my suspension with poly and it made a noticeable difference. Easily the RSK and poly bushing were the best upgrade I've done yet for drive-ability and comfort. Hit me up with any questions, I'll be happy to help.
 
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