So here's where I am at. Over the last few months I've been chasing white smoke. It's a light haze while driving. Doesn't smell sweet, and the only coolant I'm losing is out of my leaky overflow. I've had two injection pumps, and I have a set of stage 1 injectors from Justin at r&d in it with new return lines. I have no idea why I keep getting white smoke. My first pump I had a flutter above 2000 rpms with a light stumble sometimes in the lower rpms. Now the flutter went away with my new pump but I'm noticing a stumble sometimes around 1800-1900 rpms. Please, I'm pulling my hair out about this. Has anyone had this problem, or does it sound familiar to anyone?
help!
- Thread starter avaug87
- Start date
FORDF250HDXLT
The life of an Indian is like the wings of the air
id recommend a new set of injectors.you should be able to find a local shop to pop test yours for you.they'll be able to show you the issues.
The Warden
MiB Impersonator
"White" smoke (it's really a very light gray, compared to white steam from coolant) can be indicative of retarded injection timing. When you replaced the pump, how did you set the injection timing?
I actually had it advanced to about 8 btdc (I saw Mel had recomended that and liked the idea of advanced timing) but this morning I went out to start it and it would not start. I got black smoke at first then white, and I decided that the pump was a little too advanced. So I retarded the pump, and there's no more white smoke. Now there's a gray haze, and it smokes pretty good black. I wasn't able to move the pump much, so I'm wondering if maybe it's still a little advanced. The small flutter or stumble got a lot better, but I still slightly feel it SOMETIMES. So either I think the pump is still a few degrees too advanced, or I'm wondering if someone before me has the IP gear off by a tooth or two. The last two pumps I've had were rebuilt by the local shop.
More on the starting issue, it would catch but would not start until I stuck the pedal to the floor. That's what led me to believe the timing was much too advanced because I know what air intrusion is like and it was much different. Lol
HS108
Diesel Newb
What are you using to time it?
Right now I'm just trying to time it by ear as I have no timing tool and no way to get one right now. I had the shop time it to 8 degrees and they have the tool but only open from Monday-Friday. I'm just trying to get it to where it'll start in the morning
You NEED A Meter
FORDF250HDXLT
The life of an Indian is like the wings of the air
nobody's that good.you might get lucky,but your better off just saying,you don't know where it's set right now,because you lack the timing tools.
you would need to be way off for timing to cause white smoke probably.like not in the ballpark close i mean or your ip is shot.
white smoke;
1.unburnt fuel caused by ip,injectors,possibly timing (iv set all over and not seen it happen) bad rockers/valves.
2.or coolant caused by blown head gasket.
I think you're misunderstanding a little bit. I had the truck set to 8btdc by the shop. I'm not sure if they did it right not, but I know they have a timing tool and that it was advanced. I know I need a timing tool, and I'm gonna get one sent to me, I just tried to retard it a little because 1.) I couldn't get it started in the morning and 2.) I don't want to be too retarded and end up needing a new set of glow plugs or worse, a set of Pistons. Now, when I retarded the timing the white smoke while driving went away. Now it's just black. I still get a good amount of clatter, it's sounds like a powerstroke while driving. And I still get a little flutter in the rpms around 1800. This is what's confusing me. I had white smoke before, retarded the pump, and now it's black with a light haze at idle. It should be the other way around.
Also before I retarded the timing I could still get black smoke if I mashed the pedal, it was just white during light load driving. If I pushed the little advance piston in on the side of the pump, it didn't really run worse it just started smoking worse, if that helps anything.
The number most use is 9.5 btdc
No longer is 8.5 used much, now some say 7.5 and some say 10.5 try advancing from the shops last mark.
Then Get a meter on it.
No longer is 8.5 used much, now some say 7.5 and some say 10.5 try advancing from the shops last mark.
Then Get a meter on it.
HS108
Diesel Newb
Is this your daily driver? If not, I would leave it be and wait to get a meter on it.
You can rent one from Gary on the forum (icanfixall is his board name) and get it timed correctly
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...iming-Meter-Rental-Program-Is-Available-Again
^^^^^ Link to Garys post
You can rent one from Gary on the forum (icanfixall is his board name) and get it timed correctly
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...iming-Meter-Rental-Program-Is-Available-Again
^^^^^ Link to Garys post
Last edited:
bbjordan
Snow Monkey
Need more info
We need more info. Please put your truck info in your signature.
It almost sounds like you have two issues:
1. Timing issue
2. Hard starting issue
The white smoke indicates that the fuel is not being burned. This could be from the engine not being up to operating temp.
Grey smoke/haze is usually indicative of retarded timing.
As mentioned previously, the collective generally agrees that 9.5 degrees advanced, using the pulse method of timing, is optimal. Turbo engines can tolerate slightly less advance better. Properly timed, these engines make a helluva clatter, if you're not used to it.
Is the engine turning over fast enough to start? Retarding the timing by mashing the fuel pedal can mask the problem of the engine not turning over fast enough.
Is your glow plug system working properly? How long do the plugs glow for?
You mentioned that you tried two IPs. Are they good pumps? Are they reman'd units? Where did they come? (See Hall of Shame)
Have they been turned up?
We need more info. Please put your truck info in your signature.
It almost sounds like you have two issues:
1. Timing issue
2. Hard starting issue
The white smoke indicates that the fuel is not being burned. This could be from the engine not being up to operating temp.
Grey smoke/haze is usually indicative of retarded timing.
As mentioned previously, the collective generally agrees that 9.5 degrees advanced, using the pulse method of timing, is optimal. Turbo engines can tolerate slightly less advance better. Properly timed, these engines make a helluva clatter, if you're not used to it.
Is the engine turning over fast enough to start? Retarding the timing by mashing the fuel pedal can mask the problem of the engine not turning over fast enough.
Is your glow plug system working properly? How long do the plugs glow for?
You mentioned that you tried two IPs. Are they good pumps? Are they reman'd units? Where did they come? (See Hall of Shame)
Have they been turned up?
Okay I'll try and answer these questions and I'll put the info in my sig. So the engine is definitely turning over fast enough, Ive owned the truck for about a year and the turn-over speed hasn't changed. I checked all the glow plugs yesterday with an ohm meter while still in the truck and they all read 1-1.5 which iis good. I hold the glow plugs for about 8 seconds, they're on a switch. The two pumps were rebuilt by the same shop here, so basically remanned stockers. I had them set the timing at 8btdc and the fuel is turned up 1 flat. I think I said it before but I do have stage 1 injectors too, so that's most likely the haze at idle when it's cold. That's about all I believe.
