Return line fun!...NOT!

Optikalillushun

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Nop Russ, them o-rings were plenty lubed with oil and i put some vasoline on the inside of the caps before installing em.

But, i wonder how the movement and te extra o-ring ya said about. Place it on top the cap under the injectorline nut>
 

CaptTom

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Nop Russ, them o-rings were plenty lubed with oil and i put some vasoline on the inside of the caps before installing em.

But, i wonder how the movement and te extra o-ring ya said about. Place it on top the cap under the injectorline nut>

???????????????????????????????????????????????????

That'd be a new trick pony for me ta learn... a third Cheerie-O??
 

typ4

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yep my local guy says keeps them down where they need to be, he is the one that tipped me off about the not so good quality plastic. just tighten them slow so they dont crack the cap. and use the crappy ones with the injectors not the vitons.
 

CaptTom

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yep my local guy says keeps them down where they need to be, he is the one that tipped me off about the not so good quality plastic. just tighten them slow so they dont crack the cap. and use the crappy ones with the injectors not the vitons.

Huh!

I used viton, old caps and no lube(at first-then I just dabbed on engine oil off the dip stick to the damaged leakers).... no seating issues or leaks since.

No problems cracking caps either without the extra height of an o-ring.


Am I reading this wrong???? cookoo :dunno
 

typ4

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the extra oring goes under the nut to push the cap down.
 

CaptTom

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the extra oring goes under the nut to push the cap down.

Aaaaaah.... I used brute twistie wiggle force.... a little slow at things.

I hope Optikal didn't put it under the caps.
 

itsacrazyasian

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Did you happen to see my thread when you searched?

same issue here, it was extra material in the cap that cut my new orings. Didn't know at the time but i ended up putting my old caps back on.
 

typ4

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So the question is ,are we all ok with a little sanding cause this problem isnt gonna go away, if I have to do every one , well the kits wont be so cheap. And That was a Quote from Mel also. A while back he mentioned it.
 

itsacrazyasian

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So the question is ,are we all ok with a little sanding cause this problem isnt gonna go away, if I have to do every one , well the kits wont be so cheap. And That was a Quote from Mel also. A while back he mentioned it.

Russ, i think we are all capable of deburring the return caps upon install. heck thats easier than changing the actual return lines. But the part that got me is that this has never occured to me before. This also isn't my first IDI owned or the first one i've had return line leaks. At this point we all NEED to check them prior to installation. It sucks SUCKS! That nothing is built with quality or pride anymore. This country is going down the tubes. What happened to BUILT IN THE USA = OVERBUILT!?

Sorry, rant off. Just pissed off from earlier today thanks to crappy parts.
 

CaptTom

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So the question is ,are we all ok with a little sanding cause this problem isnt gonna go away, if I have to do every one , well the kits wont be so cheap. And That was a Quote from Mel also. A while back he mentioned it.

No, the easy way out is to be up front with the consumer.

Let them know in every conversation and with a note in each delivery the minor modification required for smooth transitions.

How many times you had to modify some part somewhere?? Nobody did this for you. Not to say we should screw the consumer, but, for every one who wants less expensive parts, we get a foreign built unit. We end up paying a price one way or the other.

No matter how unfortunate and inconvenient it is, in order to keep costs down, let the consumer put in the extra 10 minutes.

Just tell 'em the truth... we may not like the truth, we can't handle the truth, but in the end, we must live with the truth.

If you have a particularly **** customer, charge them extra for the surface modification appropriately. I think the rest of us can deal with a small inconvenience so long as expectation is in line with what is received.

When we get boat customers in and I have to assess their POS, money cures everything..... then let them choose. You didn't buy their vehicle, you didn't build it and you certainly didn't break it. Being fair doesn't mean eating your own chonnies.
 

typ4

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JUST ****** ME OFF WE CANT EVEN GET A QUALITY SIMPLE PART. Yell over.
 

itsacrazyasian

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JUST ****** ME OFF WE CANT EVEN GET A QUALITY SIMPLE PART. Yell over.

you. have. no. idea.

I get to yank a dash again on a Impala to do a mode door motor. I didn't use a dorman one since it was made in china. Bought one from the dealer. INDIA! guess what. It's DOA! Another 8 hours down the tube when i have so much other work in the shop.
 

typ4

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Russ, i think we are all capable of deburring the return caps upon install. heck thats easier than changing the actual return lines. But the part that got me is that this has never occured to me before. This also isn't my first IDI owned or the first one i've had return line leaks. At this point we all NEED to check them prior to installation. It sucks SUCKS! That nothing is built with quality or pride anymore. This country is going down the tubes. What happened to BUILT IN THE USA = OVERBUILT!?

Sorry, rant off. Just pissed off from earlier today thanks to crappy parts.

This just came up in the last 2 batches, and the rep says he is coming by end of january to see me shop, we are going to meet at my buddies real shop and I am saving some of the worst ones for him.
 

itsacrazyasian

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This just came up in the last 2 batches, and the rep says he is coming by end of january to see me shop, we are going to meet at my buddies real shop and I am saving some of the worst ones for him.

i'll send you some of mine!

To think i paid extra for the dipaco kit at the time because i thought i was going to get a quality replacement part. :mad:
 

typ4

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If they are dipaco send em to me and also a detailed letter, on your shop work order would be good. That gets thier attn.
 

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