Ford/New Holland 1620 Tractor questions

[RLDSL]

thanks for the info guys, especially oldbull.

we did a comp test on the engine with it cold and all three cylinders were right at 250. so we know that it is not a piston, ring, cylinder wall problem with the far back cyl.

All the varrying differnt compression readings that youve been getting tell you right off that it's just a sticking ring problem and not a mechanical problem. When teh rings can't flex freely in their groves, strange things happen. Once you get it all cleaned out it should take care of the problem
when I first got my truck, the back 2 were reading around 135 and after the auto Rx they were all up over 400 psi, and it was probably one of the milder cases I've used the stuff on.

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

Thanks Robert.

If this truly is all that is wrong with it that would be FRICKIN' AWSOME! we were ready to spend the time and money to tear the engine back down and take it some where to have the block machined out and new pistons and all that jazz.

 

[RLDSL]

Thanks Robert.

If this truly is all that is wrong with it that would be FRICKIN' AWSOME! we were ready to spend the time and money to tear the engine back down and take it some where to have the block machined out and new pistons and all that jazz.

I have literally saved some old diesels from the junkyard with Auto Rx. that people had given up for dead. One diesel car was so bad that it ate a qt of oil every 15 miles and wouldn't pull above 3rd gear ( had 2 more to go ) and after treatment had oil consumption within factory new specs and would outrun one of my identical top condition cars with a gas burner in it It was obvious that the previous owner of that one had been taking it to a quick lube and using gas burner rated oil in the thing , but the Auto Rx fixed teh problem.
I've had a few more with less dramatic but similar results

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

I have literally saved some old diesels from the junkyard with Auto Rx. that people had given up for dead. One diesel car was so bad that it ate a qt of oil every 15 miles and wouldn't pull above 3rd gear ( had 2 more to go ) and after treatment had oil consumption within factory new specs and would outrun one of my identical top condition cars with a gas burner in it It was obvious that the previous owner of that one had been taking it to a quick lube and using gas burner rated oil in the thing , but the Auto Rx fixed teh problem.
I've had a few more with less dramatic but similar results

WOW

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

would you guys recomend using any kind of fuel lubrication/additive? we use the pink offroad fuel. (no tax)

 

[RLDSL]

would you guys recomend using any kind of fuel lubrication/additive? we use the pink offroad fuel. (no tax)

It's pretty hard to beat the Howes overall ( and I can sell folks something else, but I just don't think anything works as well as the howes ) Their winter additive has literally saved my life in temps in teh Arctic in teh sub - 80 deg f range, and their summer additive does a real nice job of balancing cleaning and lubricating . There are some folks that like to just put oil in, but it does nothing for cleaning the injection system.

 

[johneich]

but I really should blow it out before parking it

What does it mean to "blow it out?"

 

[OLDBULL8]

What does it mean to "blow it out?"

Run it hard WOT for a couple of minutes. Didn't ya ever take a gasser and and run it HARD down the hiway after a lot of Town slo driving?

 

[OLDBULL8]

Here are parts for your 3000, and everything else.
http://www.ytmag.com/cgi-bin/store/model_parts.cgi?SearchArea=FORD&&md=3000&r=zone

 

[RLDSL]

Run it hard WOT for a couple of minutes. Didn't ya ever take a gasser and and run it HARD down the hiway after a lot of Town slo driving?

Exactly. Tractors when working, are running under hard load constantly which puts them in a state that is constantly contributing to adding more carbon buildup to the ring pack . If you just idle them out and shut down, you never get a chance to blow any of it out. You really should run them in gear without a load for a few minutes at a higher rpm to clear them out before parking , at least once in a while. Heck My 960 volvos have factory service bullitins on that because in the US they don't get driven fast enough and rings get sticky and the valves get so much buildup on them that they stop rotating and it leads to premature irregular valve wear, so I have to take it out on the interstate once a month and run it at 5000 +rpms for an extended period of time ( which means dropping down a couple of gears or id get one HECK of a ticket But it has to be done, those critters were built to cruise with the big Benzes on the Autobahn . too much time puttering around in traffic and they carbon up something fierce and start running like crap. 20 minutes of that high rpm screaming , and it runs like a dream again

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

how would you guys recomend finding top dead center on the piston stroke so we can adjust the valves right?

 

[RLDSL]

how would you guys recomend finding top dead center on the piston stroke so we can adjust the valves right?

Take the valve cover off and turn the engine over by hand until both cam lobes on number 1 are pointing up if it's a overhead cam or untul both rockers on number 1 are down with hopefully some play in them. This is the position you want the cylinder in for checking and setting the valves. You will need to turn the engine over by hand for each successive cylinder until they line up the same way so you can set them. First time it doesnt' hurt to keep turning on through to make sure you know what you are looking at before you stop on a cylinder. Always set to the loose end of the range.

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

thanks robert

we have the rocker arm version.

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

we got our auto rx, a new holland filter, and valvoline HD diesel oil. put in 10oz of rx and then the required amt of oil. engine started good on only one cycle of the plugs. the engie noise was almost instantly quiter. we still seem to have some injector knock. the far back injector seems noticably louder than the other two injectors. mabey tomorrow we will try to loosen up the injector lines and see if the noise changes or does not change. we will also swap out the #3 injector witht the #1 injector.


For those of you that have not used auto rx don't leave it in the garage where it is cold and then try to pour it in the engine. it was sitting inside my house before we used it and it was still really thick.

any idea where i can get injectors if i need any? from the dealer new ones are $135.

 

[RLDSL]

we got our auto rx, a new holland filter, and valvoline HD diesel oil. put in 10oz of rx and then the required amt of oil. engine started good on only one cycle of the plugs. the engie noise was almost instantly quiter. we still seem to have some injector knock. the far back injector seems noticably louder than the other two injectors. mabey tomorrow we will try to loosen up the injector lines and see if the noise changes or does not change. we will also swap out the #3 injector witht the #1 injector.


For those of you that have not used auto rx don't leave it in the garage where it is cold and then try to pour it in the engine. it was sitting inside my house before we used it and it was still really thick.

any idea where i can get injectors if i need any? from the dealer new ones are $135.

Get some howes meaner Power Kleaner and mix it at 3x regular dosage in your fuel and see what happens. It may just take care of your injector, if not the last ditch for chemical cleaning is to get a couple of cans of Liqui Moly Diesel Purge and run it through the injectors ( you do not pour it in the tank, you have to make up a test rig and bypass your fuel tank to where it draws only the cleaner straight out of your test rig bottle and through a closed loop, returns it back to the bottle, you run this until it is all gone. This stuff will cure most injector ills, if not, they are gonners. For high dollar non stanadyne type injectors, your best bet is to take them to a local certified pump shop and have them rebuilt if they won't behave after cleaning. It' will run about $85 ea and they will be balanced to each other as opposed to a new set off the shelf that will likely pop all over the place