voltage sense wire can be cut down to 2" and attached to alternator output
so then its just power cable coming off
That's the way I always do 'em too, you you still need the key-on trigger wire to turn the thing on and off.
Sorry to sound like a total newb, but if higher amps are the fix what are the pros/cons to swapping on a 165amp alternator from a truck with the ambulance package?
Higher amps are a fix only when you need them, on a mostly stock IDI with any non-E4OD transmission the only noticeable power draws are the headlights and running lights, which are still way way less than what a factory 1G puts out. Not sure about the 165-amp alt, but if I had a serpentine belt setup I'd jump right on the 215-amp Mitsubishi alt, if you gonna go big might as well go all the way right?
Does anyone have a 3G swap wiring diagram? I think I'll give the mod a shot since it will free up more space under my hood (ditching the old regulator). In fact, the wiring has been the only thing holding me back. Alot of guys have told me to cut out about 3 yards of wire and others wire the new alt straight into the plug on the old regulator. Not 100% sure which one is the one that won't be a fire hazard lol
It's pretty simple really, and you do indeed remove most all factory wiring, along with the VR itself. Here's the generic 3G wiring diagrams from FFI:
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