3g swap complete, what to do with old wiring?

dunk

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My 130a 3g is in and working on my '86 F-350. 14.7 at first startup then settled down to 14.6x. High beams, fan on high, radio on... I guess that's all I got, but it stayed at 14.6x. No drop, no cycling up/down, just works. Very happy so far. $95 for alternator and plug/harness. Cheaper than $142 for the drop in 70 amp replacement (sans regulator) and better than a $40 (absurd, they used to be $15-$20) 65a 1g which would require similar work changing wiring.

Messed with some wiring and hooked the old alternator wire to the battery and plugs worked fine and fired right up. Peeling back the harness it looks like 2 large gauge wires and one small soldered together into the one to the charge post and various other hacks in there. I removed some or the regulator wiring for now. What are you guys doing with the old rats nest? What is required for power into the cab and everything to work? There is a 2 wire plug on pass inner fender one of which was green/red to voltage regulator to turn alternator on. I snipped that off the old voltage regulator then crimped and heat shrinked that to the 3g harness. The other is larger and goes to the old alternator charge post. It's dark so I'm content for tonight that it works.

Also I'm out of thread on the stud on my passenger side group 31. Nut has maybe half the threads on so I gotta do some sort of distribution block or eliminate wires. I have driver side battery, starter, alternator charge, alternator sense and mystery wire. Old alternator charge terminal is tapped off the two bolt clamp terminal to the starter. Getting way too busy at that terminal! I'd like to figure out what the mystery wire goes to and eliminate that or tie it in more cleanly if required. The rest can't really go anywhere so what do I do? I could come off the battery to a longer isolated stud on the fender or rad support with 2/0 and use that for others taps? Use one of the solenoids on inner fender? Run 4g or 2g into cab and put a block or stud in there for accessories? I'd like to keep things as simple and reliable and possible so anything I can eliminate or simplify is great.
 

CDX825

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sounds like you got it hooked up right to me. The heavy yellow wire you mention feeds power into the cab. It splits off into two fusible links. The yellow one feeds the ignition power and the other feeds power to the headlight switch.

The only wire you needed from the original alternator wiring was the green wire with the red stripe. Anything associated with the voltage regulator can be eliminated. The other smaller wires running into the cab are for the amp meter. Mine never worked anyway so I just cut them at the plug.
 

FoolhardyIDI

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What is a 3g alternator? And do you have pictures of your install and new wiring? I would like to do this upgrade. Thank You
 

dunk

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Here is my group 31 and 3g upgrade...

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There are a few writeups here and elsewhere as noted. Wiring is very simple, 3 wires from voltage regulator. White to alternator, yellow to battery, red/green to key on +12v (I used old red/green at old voltage regulator). 4 gauge from charge post to battery through 200A fuse near battery.

I will be cleaning up my wiring now that I have somewhat of an idea what the old wires are. I think I'll run 2/0 from battery post to the solenoid (glow plug I believe) and tie in some things there like the yellow battery voltage sense wire and maybe the charge wire to shorten up that line. I'll have to move things around on that metal tray that's on the inner fender to do that. It's nice having two huge strong batteries, good wiring, and good charging system. Starter turns it over real fast and just plain works.
 

dunk

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What do the two solenoids on the passenger side fender tray do? The one with posts going up/vertical is the glow plug solenoid I believe. The other standard Ford style solenoid is for what? Also glow plugs or something else? I'm going to move these on the tray a bit and I have about 16" of 2/0 cable left so will run that to one or the other solenoid (whichever has higher load) and then go from that to the other solenoid with 4 gauge as that's what I have spools of.. Either way it'll be much more substantial than what's on there now but I'd prefer the larger cable go to the larger load. This will also allow me to reduce the stack height on the battery post and move some of it to the longer solenoid post for distribution. I have proper lugs to crimp and solder on the starter cable. I will remove that and either reuse or if insulation is hard/cracked replace it with new 3/0.

Some of this wiring makes no sense. Like each solenoid has a wire back to the battery but they are also connected together. Goal is cleaner wiring without redundancy or clutter and more compact mounting of components. Also can anyone identify that loose wire between the solenoids not connected to anything? Not sure if that's a ground or where it should go, or if it even serves a purpose anymore (can't be doing anything important).

Also what are you guys doing for chassis grounds? I have 2/0 from each battery to each side of the block. Aside from that it's just the tiny wire on passenger side that grounds to the fender. Is there a ground strap on the engine somewhere to the frame or cab? i haven't seen one but it could be buried behind/under the turbo. Should I be putting a new ground strap from a head to the firewall? Run 4ga from battery to frame or body? Just trying to think of how everything is grounded and how I should be improving it while I'm wrapping up electrical.
 

TahoeTom

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There should be a ground from the rear of one or both heads to the firewall. On mine it goes to the wiper motor mount. What year is your truck? Did it have an external voltage regulator OEM? It looks like you have '86 and earlier glow plug system with the relay on the fender tray. My starter solenoid is on the fender side and, and both are connected to the battery positive.
 

dunk

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Starter solenoid, duh... I see the smaller wire going along with the 3/0 down to the starter. Wire is a thicker gauge than on a gas truck. Question is does the solenoid down on the starter draw enough current that it actually needs a separate solenoid up by the battery? Anyone know how many amps it draws and if it is safe to run that through the ignition switch? I have done this on many gas engines 302/351/460 using high torque starters with solenoid on the starter with no issues. Would be an easy way to eliminate clutter, but the large gauge of that wire down to the solenoid makes me think better than to eliminate it.

The truck is an '86. Anyone have a wiring diagram? Looks like I can eliminate a few of these wires but there is a smaller orange and smaller yellow that are on the always hot part of the old alternator harness. I'm wondering if these are the shunts for the ammeter and can be eliminated? A diagram may help. I suspect in typical Ford fashion the larger gauge yellow is the only factory power into the cab and really the only one I need to be worried about.
 

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