T cases

[typ4]

DO the f250 and 350 diesels share the same t-case. mine goes neutral sometimes and last night it almost didnt make it home. and the local u pull it has a 250 diesel that has 100k on it. I figured that it would be better to build than my 300k unit. I do know some yokes slip and some bolt on. Quick replies appreciated, gotta get it before its gone. Pickups around here get boned very fast.

thanks
russ

 

[towcat]

DO the f250 and 350 diesels share the same t-case. mine goes neutral sometimes and last night it almost didnt make it home. and the local u pull it has a 250 diesel that has 100k on it. I figured that it would be better to build than my 300k unit. I do know some yokes slip and some bolt on. Quick replies appreciated, gotta get it before its gone. Pickups around here get boned very fast.

thanks
russ

russ-
they're the same.
although rumor has it that if you have a D60 front, you'll need to swap the front output yoke. nothing to it.

 

[adrianspeeder]

Anything after 87 if you want the same 1356 transfer case. Just don't get from a bronco and yer good.

Adrianspeeder

 

[typ4]

Well cool, I just got back from the yard and got the tcase and trans, zf 5 cracked bell for 170. 50 back if I can find a couple cores, and they dont have to be the same The crack is no big thing there since we have a large tig machine at work. Time to overhaul both and do a swap. Then everything on the truck will be rebuilt or new, except the bodywork.
Thanks towcat

 

[LUCKY_LARUE60]

DO the f250 and 350 diesels share the same t-case. mine goes neutral sometimes and last night it almost didnt make it home.

Mine did the same comming home pulling my 30' travel trailer and I found the fork in the T-case was wore out. I bought one for $25 off E-bay and all has been good. Not a hard job at all.

Jim

 

[tonkadoctor]

Mine did the same comming home pulling my 30' travel trailer and I found the fork in the T-case was wore out. I bought one for $25 off E-bay and all has been good. Not a hard job at all.

Hardest part of the job is getting it out of the truck, pretty simple once you crack it open...

just don't do it in the kitchen on the floor when mama's away like I did on the last one, when my buddy brought one over for some help cause he was afraid of doing it alone........or at least don't get caught ......

 

[typ4]

Thats funny tonkadoc, I sanded and finished my wood floors myself so I think the workbench in the garage will do ok, or I could take it to work and do it on the hoist with lots of bench space and parts washing facilities too.

 

[DieselChemist]

I think I might have a similar problem. It goes into 4 high and stays there fine but when put into 4 low it kicks itself back out and I have to hold it there to make it work. What is causing this. Also the 4x4 locking assembly in the front hub on one side got destroyed. Is it better to buy a new assembly or can I find one from a yard.
Thanks
Bill

 

[hahn_rossman]

Hey I just replaced my front manual locking hubs. It's trivial if you are going manual-manual, and apparently there is a adaptor if auto-manual. The reason I replaced mine is either someone tried to steal one of my hubs or the outer part simply fell off???
Anyway I have a perfectly functional manual hub, and all the internals form the other side as well. They aren't the prettiest parts (flaking chrome) but they are free! Let me know if you want them.

 

[tonkadoctor]

Thats funny tonkadoc, I sanded and finished my wood floors myself so I think the workbench in the garage will do ok, or I could take it to work and do it on the hoist with lots of bench space and parts washing facilities too.

That was in the rental house with a wore out linoleum floor before we bought this one, my shop was 8' x 12' shack in the back yard back then before I retired from the Army.

 

[Dalvaras]

just don't do it in the kitchen on the floor when mama's away like I did on the last one, when my buddy brought one over for some help cause he was afraid of doing it alone........or at least don't get caught

I got caught rebuilding a Quadra-jet carb off my old chevy on the antique mahogany dining room table when the wife came home a day early... good thing I had it covered with card board or I would probably still be sleeping on the couch

 

[82fordtruck]

I wouldn't weld up a cast housing and try to put it back on, but if you do, drill the end of the hole to keep it from spreading. If you can, put some dowels in it, and grind as much metal away as you can for a good weld bead.

 

[typ4]

Aluminum doesnt grow cracks as bad as cast iron, I just preheat it and do tacks along the length then go over the whole crack twice It is cracked from the starter hole all the way to the top left side. The truck it was in had a brand new clutch in it and I bet they tried to pull the trans in with the bolts, the pilot surface had a nick in it like misalignment. I tore down the tcase today and I should have just put it in, it is perfect

 

[tonkadoctor]

When welding aluminum scarf the crack so you can get 100% penetration. Also must be spotless, any contamination with oil etc will cause big time porosity if it doesn't flat blow a big hole where you are welding.

Remember aluminum has about a 6% expansion rate when welding so watch your heat buildup and alignment when working it.

Best bet would be to TIG weld cast, not MIG. Much better heat & puddle flow control and no splatter. A good proper weld repair can last longer than the metal around it.

 

[typ4]

Thanks for the tips, the bell is pretty thin so penetration wont be a problem, I weld up c6 cases for the tugs all the time, people dont know what dowels are for I guess
I have tig welded some engine block ears and they are very strong exhaust castings dont weld so good though, plop fizz if you know what I mean.