The_Josh_Bear
Full Access Member
Roger, now I got it!
Surface mount hitch receiver on front bumper to carry bikes?
- Thread starter Cubey
- Start date
The hitch came much sooner than advertised. I'd say it'll work. With this bracket configuration, it drops enough and appears to not interfere with the tie rods. I'm hoping anyway.
Just loosely holding up the brackets on one side:
Just loosely holding up the brackets on one side:
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The_Josh_Bear
Full Access Member
Looks like it clears it to me! Shiny! 
This is definitely not a bolt on application. I'm having to drill 4x 1/2" holes in the frame. I also had to drill an extra 1/2" hole in the hitch bracket, due to having to work around the power steering gear's inner frame reinforcement section.
Inside the driver side frame, that wall in the back keeps the frame from crushing in when bolting on the power steering gearbox. The bolt and block plate are as far forward as possible to clear the sway bar mount. The stock hole in the frame is inaccessible due to the steering gear mounting bolt passing through, so that's why the hitch needed an extra hole.
Also, I'll have to cut off a bit of the hitch to clear the tie rod on the passenger side. It's not structurally important with the way this is being assembled.
That's the section that needs to be cut off, the very lower portion behind the hole.
I'll also have to loosely place some washers as shims, so the block plate doesn't sit crooked on the uneven box frame (due to how it's welded together), making the nut not properly go against the hitch, putting excessive stress on the bolt/threads.
At least it looks like it'll work well. It was just barely snugged up with one bolt on each side. It's a bit low to the ground, but it's not really any lower than the differential pumpkin, so still probably be ok. I can still slide myself underneath for maintenance, on either side of the receiver in the center, but not directly under the receiver.
Inside the driver side frame, that wall in the back keeps the frame from crushing in when bolting on the power steering gearbox. The bolt and block plate are as far forward as possible to clear the sway bar mount. The stock hole in the frame is inaccessible due to the steering gear mounting bolt passing through, so that's why the hitch needed an extra hole.
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Also, I'll have to cut off a bit of the hitch to clear the tie rod on the passenger side. It's not structurally important with the way this is being assembled.
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That's the section that needs to be cut off, the very lower portion behind the hole.
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I'll also have to loosely place some washers as shims, so the block plate doesn't sit crooked on the uneven box frame (due to how it's welded together), making the nut not properly go against the hitch, putting excessive stress on the bolt/threads.
At least it looks like it'll work well. It was just barely snugged up with one bolt on each side. It's a bit low to the ground, but it's not really any lower than the differential pumpkin, so still probably be ok. I can still slide myself underneath for maintenance, on either side of the receiver in the center, but not directly under the receiver.
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Someone lent me their DeWalt grinder with a cutoff wheel and grinding wheel. My trash picked 2500W generator I got and repaired a couple years ago worked good for it, even with it's clogged carburetor, because I turned up the idle to compensate for the clogged idle circuit.
The hitch ALMOST interferes with the pitman arm, because of the bracket way I intended to mount it. At first, the rubber boot on the tie rod was contacting, so I went back and cut more off. Now at worst, the metal of the pitman arm might make contact. Although, I could redo it so that the lower hitch bracket is on the other side of the upper bracket, giving 1/4" more clearance.
I will do that actually, since it's not attached right now, and it's minimal work to adjust that. I gave the exposed metal a good coating of old, leftover Rust-Oleum black gloss spray paint, that is made for direct metal use. I'll let it sit and dry for a couple days in the sun/wind.
I made it look fairly decent on the driver side. This was before it was taken off, cleaned with rubbing alcohol, and painted:
When the pitman arm is almost touching, the steering knuckle stop is about touching too. If I turn it much more, it hits the stop and makes the pump scream. But it's always done that, and does it in both directions.
You can see the passenger side stop there when the wheels are turned hard towards the driver side.
So, even if the pitman arm makes contact with the hitch, the knuckle stop should also be making contact. So yeah, it shouldn't interfere with steering now. Unless someone does a bad job of aligning the steering gearbox, making it go further to the left for left turns than it does currently.
Nothing interferes for right turns.
The hitch ALMOST interferes with the pitman arm, because of the bracket way I intended to mount it. At first, the rubber boot on the tie rod was contacting, so I went back and cut more off. Now at worst, the metal of the pitman arm might make contact. Although, I could redo it so that the lower hitch bracket is on the other side of the upper bracket, giving 1/4" more clearance.
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I will do that actually, since it's not attached right now, and it's minimal work to adjust that. I gave the exposed metal a good coating of old, leftover Rust-Oleum black gloss spray paint, that is made for direct metal use. I'll let it sit and dry for a couple days in the sun/wind.
I made it look fairly decent on the driver side. This was before it was taken off, cleaned with rubbing alcohol, and painted:
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When the pitman arm is almost touching, the steering knuckle stop is about touching too. If I turn it much more, it hits the stop and makes the pump scream. But it's always done that, and does it in both directions.
You can see the passenger side stop there when the wheels are turned hard towards the driver side.
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So, even if the pitman arm makes contact with the hitch, the knuckle stop should also be making contact. So yeah, it shouldn't interfere with steering now. Unless someone does a bad job of aligning the steering gearbox, making it go further to the left for left turns than it does currently.
Nothing interferes for right turns.
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All done. It's about 7.25" +/- from the ground at bottom the receiver tube. I can't get an accurate measurement right now, being on loose, sandy dirt. But that's good enough clearance for my intended use of cargo carrying.
The pitman arm just makes contact with the hitch at the same time that the knuckle stop peg touches, so that'll be fine. That's after I adjusted it so it has 1/4" more clearance. I had to rig up a strap on the steering wheel to hold it more extreme than it naturally rests, just shy of making the pump scream.
It sticks out a little less than the bumper, so it's not a shin buster, if not in use.
I was only really able to attach it with two bolts, in a practical way, on the driver side, due to the steering gear being in the way, as mentioned before. And as it is, I drilled an extra hole in the upper hitch bracket to space out the two bolts as much as possible. The center round hole is the one I added. The one on the far left is the other hole being used. For ~200lbs maximum carry weight, that should be fine. (Hitch carrier, 2000-2500W inverter generator, 5 gallon gas can)
I was able to make some shims from old scrap aluminum flat bar pieces, previously on the RV roof, used to help mount the solar panels to the thin fiberglass roof. They keep the thick metal plates from rocking/putting the bolts at an angle. The wetness is just spray lubricant from when I was drilling a hole. The two smaller threaded bolts in the foreground are the sway bar bushing mounting boots.
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The pitman arm just makes contact with the hitch at the same time that the knuckle stop peg touches, so that'll be fine. That's after I adjusted it so it has 1/4" more clearance. I had to rig up a strap on the steering wheel to hold it more extreme than it naturally rests, just shy of making the pump scream.
It sticks out a little less than the bumper, so it's not a shin buster, if not in use.
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I was only really able to attach it with two bolts, in a practical way, on the driver side, due to the steering gear being in the way, as mentioned before. And as it is, I drilled an extra hole in the upper hitch bracket to space out the two bolts as much as possible. The center round hole is the one I added. The one on the far left is the other hole being used. For ~200lbs maximum carry weight, that should be fine. (Hitch carrier, 2000-2500W inverter generator, 5 gallon gas can)
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I was able to make some shims from old scrap aluminum flat bar pieces, previously on the RV roof, used to help mount the solar panels to the thin fiberglass roof. They keep the thick metal plates from rocking/putting the bolts at an angle. The wetness is just spray lubricant from when I was drilling a hole. The two smaller threaded bolts in the foreground are the sway bar bushing mounting boots.
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IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
It looks good. You should be very happy with it.
I ordered this for pretty cheap being "used".
That'll help to raise up whatever I carry on the front.
I don't like how low the bike carrier sits in the hitch itself, I can't keep an eye on straps/bikes when driving. Plus it sticks out more than the riser adapter. So, the riser will help avoid bottoming out on weird/steep driveways. I'll probably take off folding step that's mounted on the bumper and store it away. At least, if it's on the way of the riser.
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That'll help to raise up whatever I carry on the front.
I don't like how low the bike carrier sits in the hitch itself, I can't keep an eye on straps/bikes when driving. Plus it sticks out more than the riser adapter. So, the riser will help avoid bottoming out on weird/steep driveways. I'll probably take off folding step that's mounted on the bumper and store it away. At least, if it's on the way of the riser.
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I got the riser today. It looks like a good setup to me. It's inserted as far into the hitch as possible, based on the 3 holes in the riser. It only sticks out a little bit beyond the bumper and places the receiver tube up more like where it should be, height wise.
But the receiver on the hitch itself is a bit oversized, at least compared to the old 1990s Valley hitch on the back of the van. So, it has a lot of movement slop. The bar is actually solid, not a box tube, so an anti-rattle hitch pin I have won't work with it, because it needs a hollow tube for the anti-rattle function to work.
My rear double receiver thing for towing plus carrying is made by MaxxHaul too, but it's made with a tube where it goes into the vehicle hitch. The pin there is the anti-rattle one that won't work with the front riser.
So, I'll have to order one of these anti-rattle things for the front riser. The bike carrier itself has a special bolt that tightens it to the receiver tube, and only works with the bike carrier because they drilled it's hole smaller than 5/8" (like normal hitch pins).
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But the receiver on the hitch itself is a bit oversized, at least compared to the old 1990s Valley hitch on the back of the van. So, it has a lot of movement slop. The bar is actually solid, not a box tube, so an anti-rattle hitch pin I have won't work with it, because it needs a hollow tube for the anti-rattle function to work.
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My rear double receiver thing for towing plus carrying is made by MaxxHaul too, but it's made with a tube where it goes into the vehicle hitch. The pin there is the anti-rattle one that won't work with the front riser.
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So, I'll have to order one of these anti-rattle things for the front riser. The bike carrier itself has a special bolt that tightens it to the receiver tube, and only works with the bike carrier because they drilled it's hole smaller than 5/8" (like normal hitch pins).
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Actually, I just ordered two of these on eBay for $30.97 with tax and shipping. That looks superior to the $10 ones, partly because you can replace the bolts, if the threads get damaged or the bolt breaks. But also the overall design seems like it'll be better.
The official site:
dohitchy.com
I went with eBay because they're offering a discount on more than one, plus it adds extra buyer protection.
DO HITCHY- 2" LOCK JAW Hitch Tightener Stabilizer Anti Rattle Trailer Clamp | eBay
LOCK JAW - DO HITCHY. DO HITCHY HAS YOUR BACK.
www.ebay.com
The official site:
2" LOCK JAW - Hitch Stabilizer
Introducing LOCK JAW, the ultimate hitch stabilizer that doubles up on the stabilization. Say goodbye to unwanted movement and enjoy a secure towing experience every time fits most all 2" hitch mounts. All Stainless Steel Hardware Included (wrenches needed to tighten bolts)
dohitchy.com
I went with eBay because they're offering a discount on more than one, plus it adds extra buyer protection.
As an eBay Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
I decided to buy a better bike carrier too.
Found this one for dirt cheap on Amazon. It's $139 PLUS paid shipping from the company's website.
It only holds two (vs 4 of old) but that's all I need. I like that style, because the existing one has rubber mounts for nylon straps, and one is already tearing on the rubber after about a year.
The other bike I carry is this:
I've often thought about putting a gas engine kit on a bike, but I'd need the style that supports it under the wheels, vs under the top bar. So, the new carrier gives me that option.
I'll take apart the old one and shove it in the trailer, just in case.
Found this one for dirt cheap on Amazon. It's $139 PLUS paid shipping from the company's website.
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It only holds two (vs 4 of old) but that's all I need. I like that style, because the existing one has rubber mounts for nylon straps, and one is already tearing on the rubber after about a year.
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The other bike I carry is this:
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I've often thought about putting a gas engine kit on a bike, but I'd need the style that supports it under the wheels, vs under the top bar. So, the new carrier gives me that option.
I'll take apart the old one and shove it in the trailer, just in case.
IDIoit
MachinistFabricator
I assembled the new bike carrier today, adjusted it to fit the bikes, and snapped a picture. Looks pretty good to me. It'll sag a little less once I put on the anti-rattle thing on the riser/hitch connection.
The anti rattle thing company got a wrong batch of nuts from their hardware source and unknowing sent out kits with metric nuts for sae boots before the complaints rolled in. I broke the bolts because they seized up so hard, the nuts wouldn't come loose. So now I'm waiting on replacement hardware from the seller.
The anti rattle thing company got a wrong batch of nuts from their hardware source and unknowing sent out kits with metric nuts for sae boots before the complaints rolled in. I broke the bolts because they seized up so hard, the nuts wouldn't come loose. So now I'm waiting on replacement hardware from the seller.
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IDIBOBS
Registered User
Looks good. Glad it’s working out for you. I’ve built several of these front carrier hitches and have been able to Mount it all behind the bumper and just flip down the license plate for use.
The problem on 3rd gen Econoline is the sway bar is in the way. That's why it's so low. The sway bar is directly above the hitch I put on.
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