JPhauler87
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Got all the fittings to hook it up yesterday. Can't wait to get it going! PAbio dude is out town until Friday, so my fuge won't ship until then though -____-
W80: keeping it mixed
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JPhauler87
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Need to get the transfer pump hooked up still. Gonna be nice!
Only ran for about 40 minutes just to see what I'd get since it was getting late. Cleaned the bowl and got a little water and about 1/16" of junk in some spots. Turned it back on and it seems like it wasn't spinning as fast, was getting noticeable noise and vibration on the first pass. Nothing extreme, but I could tell it was spinning fast. Now its hard to tell. Can you guys usually hear/feel when its up to speed? Wondering if maybe it was a little off balance from some junk on the first run?
Josh Carmack
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May sound patronizing, but make sure you have the balance marks lined up, and if you didn't clean it all the way out the the sludge could throw it out of balance. I can listen to mine running and tell if one or both are running at speed by the tone and amount of heterodyning between the two. When I hear about one to 5 hz of heterodyning then I know they are both at speed. Be very careful if you are using a needle or ball valve to control pressure as I have done and accidentally close the valve instead of open it. It can and will instantly deform the rotor and blow the seal. If you are lucky it will only blow out the seal. If you pump has enough flow volume, it will deform it even with the blown seal. I have one ruined rotor, and a slightly crushed one that I was able to beat back out. The overpressure will cause the dome to crush inward from the top. At 45 bucks a pop I warn everyone to be careful about pressure. Also a blown seal or a leaky seal will cause it to be off balance and slow.
If the dome is not on tight it will cause them to under-speed. Air will as well.
If the dome is not on tight it will cause them to under-speed. Air will as well.
JPhauler87
Full Access Member
Not patronizing whatsoever, complete newb to this so any info is appreciated.
Not sure why it would appear to be slower after cleaning. I did not over pressure it at all, seems to spin freely on the shaft, even took it up to 40psi or so with the top off so I could make sure the two pin holes were flowing oil. Would it not spin freely if I overpressured and expanded the bowl? Is it visibly noticeable or a small change in size/shape?
Is it possible it's too thick? I had dialed back on the gas in the warmer weather, it's probably a hair thicker than usual. I do not heat my mixture. As I said before, I think its spinning, but I'm not getting any of the slight "harmonics" like I was on the first pass which makes me think its running slow. Setting pressure at 85-90lbs, it does seem to jump around though while running.
Not sure why it would appear to be slower after cleaning. I did not over pressure it at all, seems to spin freely on the shaft, even took it up to 40psi or so with the top off so I could make sure the two pin holes were flowing oil. Would it not spin freely if I overpressured and expanded the bowl? Is it visibly noticeable or a small change in size/shape?
Is it possible it's too thick? I had dialed back on the gas in the warmer weather, it's probably a hair thicker than usual. I do not heat my mixture. As I said before, I think its spinning, but I'm not getting any of the slight "harmonics" like I was on the first pass which makes me think its running slow. Setting pressure at 85-90lbs, it does seem to jump around though while running.
JPhauler87
Full Access Member
Also, the only rubber seal I see is the large one on the bowl. Is there another one somewhere else? Looks like just copper bushings at the top and bottom of the bowl?
AcIdBuRn02ZTS
Full Access Member
Just the one rubber o ring... which gets out of place easily.
Pop it back apart... make sure your balance marks are lined up... make sure the o-ring is in the grove and snap it back together... it will typically make a "pop" nose when it snaps back together. Then hand tighten the nut on top.
Make sure the ports on the bottom of the rotor are clean... if they get a bit of sludge in them, it wont spin up as fast.
If the mix is too thick, it wont spin up as fast either...
I would make sure its clean and together right... then bring it up slowly to 85psi and see what happens.
Pop it back apart... make sure your balance marks are lined up... make sure the o-ring is in the grove and snap it back together... it will typically make a "pop" nose when it snaps back together. Then hand tighten the nut on top.
Make sure the ports on the bottom of the rotor are clean... if they get a bit of sludge in them, it wont spin up as fast.
If the mix is too thick, it wont spin up as fast either...
I would make sure its clean and together right... then bring it up slowly to 85psi and see what happens.
JPhauler87
Full Access Member
I put the plate in last instead of the o ring before putting it back together. Working fine now. Up too late with it last night... I knew it was wrong as soon as I took it apart just now. Thanks for the help guys.
Josh Carmack
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JP also it will spin faster if you are heating. Pressures jump around less, and are easier to control with a hot mix. Controlling the tempature with home made stuff like I do can get hairy and dangerous at times.
JPhauler87
Full Access Member
Got it plumbed in with TSC hydraulic hoses for peace of mind and let it run for about 24 hours, cleaning once about halfway through.
That's the longest period of time I've heard of anyone running their oil. Out of curiosity, I ran it for another hour after the 24 and the bowl was starting to collect a thin layer of junk again. I'm thinking there has got to be a point of diminishing return...
Does it collect smaller and smaller particles as more passes are made? Or is it collecting an equal amount of all sized junk in each pass. Each time it has been tar consistency, with no noticeable grit.
That's the longest period of time I've heard of anyone running their oil. Out of curiosity, I ran it for another hour after the 24 and the bowl was starting to collect a thin layer of junk again. I'm thinking there has got to be a point of diminishing return...
Does it collect smaller and smaller particles as more passes are made? Or is it collecting an equal amount of all sized junk in each pass. Each time it has been tar consistency, with no noticeable grit.
JPhauler87
Full Access Member
What I'm wondering is with no pre filtering and running for a total of 24hrs, can I be certain I'm getting a majority of stuff, below say 5um out of the oil?
What is the tar? To be honest, I'm not concerned with cleaning my oil to .5 micron, I know many people running single sock pass oil through their p-pumps with engine oil filters as fuel filters for 80k+ without fuel system failures. That said, I'm willing to do a little better than that haha. My goal with the fuge is to never plug a 20 micron stock fuel filter on the truck and to never have to buy anymore filters to use in the processing setup.
May need to just run some batches of 24hr stuff and just see how it goes.
What is the tar? To be honest, I'm not concerned with cleaning my oil to .5 micron, I know many people running single sock pass oil through their p-pumps with engine oil filters as fuel filters for 80k+ without fuel system failures. That said, I'm willing to do a little better than that haha. My goal with the fuge is to never plug a 20 micron stock fuel filter on the truck and to never have to buy anymore filters to use in the processing setup.
May need to just run some batches of 24hr stuff and just see how it goes.
The FNG
NOT a Powerstroke!
The tar is engine sludge. You can't filter it out. Some people settle for a month. I just fuge it out.
Josh Carmack
Full Access Member
I shoot for 8 hrs, keep in mind I'm running dual fuges so 16hrs for a singe unit and as I have said I change my filters at 60PSI, until my little fiasco the other day I have only changed a couple filters. Before I added the second fuge and increased my processing time I was blinding filters pretty quick.
The problem with these cheap little fuges is the G-Seconds, the G seconds are very low compared to a belt driven unit of larger size. A friend and I are building a 10" rotor, motor driven machine. His is actually up and running, needs some more work, but can run a batch as is now. I really really need to get some pictures posted. His unit is direct drive 3450RPM. I'm planning on going with a belt driven unit that runs at +/-6000RPM. I'm HOPING the belt drive will be simpler than his unit, but I'm having second thoughts.
The problem with these cheap little fuges is the G-Seconds, the G seconds are very low compared to a belt driven unit of larger size. A friend and I are building a 10" rotor, motor driven machine. His is actually up and running, needs some more work, but can run a batch as is now. I really really need to get some pictures posted. His unit is direct drive 3450RPM. I'm planning on going with a belt driven unit that runs at +/-6000RPM. I'm HOPING the belt drive will be simpler than his unit, but I'm having second thoughts.
JP, thats kinda what I'd like to shoot for, espically if I'm using this stuff during winter.
On Josh's point about different kinds of CF's, I would think a double CF setup of some sorts would be very good filtering.
Now if we could figure a way to take out the black color of wmo, without using any cancer causing chemicals.(extremely bright light for short intervals???)
AcIdBuRn02ZTS
Full Access Member
Typically, I fuge for a total of 20hrs... cleaning the fuge every 2-4 hours. I always have a thin black film on the bowl after a run no matter how many hours I let it go...
The thin layer you are getting is most likely soot from the diesel oil in the mix... if its a thin black layer that doesnt feel sticky or grainy, etc.. after an hour or two... (after your 20+hr run time) I would say you are fine. Soot can be submicron in size and you'll never 'fuge it all.
A good test also would be to drain some off and see if light can pass through it while pouring... mine typically looks like a dark beer when doing this.
-Chris
The thin layer you are getting is most likely soot from the diesel oil in the mix... if its a thin black layer that doesnt feel sticky or grainy, etc.. after an hour or two... (after your 20+hr run time) I would say you are fine. Soot can be submicron in size and you'll never 'fuge it all.
A good test also would be to drain some off and see if light can pass through it while pouring... mine typically looks like a dark beer when doing this.
-Chris
